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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | I'm sure I'm opening a huge can of snakes here, but I'd like to keep as much of the original design and function of the stock braking system as I can. To that end, I'm asking the learned members of this forum for assistance and suggestions for vendors as far as hardware, hoses, cables, and lines. I'm not adept at bending brake lines as I need to be. Thank you in advance. | ||
Greg P. |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 769 Location: Oley, PA | No problems... A lot of people like to upgrade to disc brakes and dual circuit master cylinders, but many of us (including me) have found that the original braking systems can be perfectly adequate as long as they are well maintained. Most brake parts for your car are readily available. My most common sources of brake parts are: 1. Rock Auto - They have most of the stuff you'll need at good prices and don't forget the 5% Forward look discount. http://www.rockauto.com/ 2. eBay - with a little searching, I can usually find anything that Rock Auto doesn't have. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Plymouth+%281961%2C61%2C%2761%... 3. Andy Bernbaum - http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-service-brakes.aspx 4. Kanter - https://www.kanter.com/ As far as steel lines go, I know there are some companies that offer premade sets, but I don't have any experience with them. Perhaps someone else can offer a suggestion. Edited by Greg P. 2017-09-01 12:47 PM | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | No need to be adept at bending the lines, if your hands work, you can do it. Are your current brake lines rusted out? For sure replace the flex lines if they show signs of cracking, or replace them anyway because its good reassurance. Do you get fluid to each of the drums? If you do then you may be able to just flush the lines out without needing to replace any. The rear line near the axle and where it transitions from the body to axle will likely show the most rust if any. If it looks good back there then your lines are probably good. Next would be the cylinders. They are easy to disassemble inspect and hone if needed. You want the walls to be smooth, the pistons not pitted and rubber seals flexible and look good. If the system was working then the rubber is likely good, the brake fluid keeps the rubber conditioned. Tricky part is opening them up because you may need to apply pressure to force the piston and seal out. I would go ahead and rebuild the vacuum booster with new seals etc. Master cylinder...again was the system working and full of fluid? a good flush may be all that is needed. You can save a chunk of money just by disassembly and inspection of the cylinders. A full set of cylinders will run about 250 to 300 and may not be needed. I did the brakes on a car that sat since 1972, the cylinders needed honing because water got in the system and sat in the cylinders rusting the walls. I got a $10 brake hone and honed the cylinders and put the old stuff back in. No leaks and brakes worked great afterward. It all just takes time...easy stuff just time. | ||
71charger_fan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 667 Location: Frederick, MD | It won't be the same as original, but, if you have to make any new brake lines, get the copper-nickel brake tubing. It's easier to bend, easier to flare, and more corrosion resistant. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | Thanks to everyone for the quick and informative answers. I'll look into those vendors to see what i can pick up. I've just started tearing the brake system down, and I'm still finding more problems as I continue on. Another question, are there other "B" or "C" body cars of newer vintage drum brakes that can be used to swap in? This would be for the front only, as I have already swapped in a rear end from a '67 New Yorker with drums and E-brakes. | ||
LostDeere59 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Hilltown, PA | I would definitely want to upgrade the front brakes - now that you have "servo-action" brakes on the rear you will have disturbed the balance of the system. I don't know if there is a "drop-in" later drum brake that will fit - although I would imagine there probably is since even worst case you could re-drill the backing plate to match your spindle. My question is why would you bother? I remember when I was a teen-ager I had acquired a large collection of old Hot Rod magazines, and the swap or upgrade you are considering was commonplace for a few years. But at that time the swap from fixed pin to servo brakes represented a significant increase in brake performance, and more importantly disc brakes were still the stuff of high dollar cars and racing. In todays world the cost and effort to convert to disc can't possibly be enough more than simply updating to later drum brakes to make drum brakes an attractive choice . . . Gregg | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | Inline Tube made a good set of brake and fuel lines for my car. I stayed away from the stainless because I've heard it's hard to bend and even harder to flare should the need arise. | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | '63/64 Chryslers have upgraded, more common drumbrakes if you want to keep to the old stuff. | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | To b5RT, I have had very good luck with Inline Tube, as I have ordered from them in the past for all the brake and fuel lines for my 70 Challenger and Road Runner. I'll most likely use them again. LostDeere59- Thanks for the input. I read those same magazines. I guess what I'm saying is that I want to keep the original drum "feel" but with later mother Mopar stuff. Like what I have on my Challenger and Runner. Both have drums all around and they perform quite well. Trying to "upgrade" but still be "retro" I really don't want to go the disc swap route. BigBlockMopar- That's pretty much what I was thinking, but with maybe '65 to '77 stuff. I know I'm reaching on this guys, but it's kind of an inch I can't scratch. | ||
dlyle |
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Veteran Posts: 236 Location: Morgan Hill, CA | I was able to get all the hoses, master, and wheel cylinders at my local Napa store. Wheels bearings from Summit and seals from ebay. My stainless hard lines were from Classic Tube and fit great. | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | Ultimately, I'd like to preserve the "Total Contact" parts and mechanicals and go with that. I've been somewhat successful locating most of the parts to do this. I was just spit ballin an idea to use more "modern" drum system and achieve the same results. Thanks to everyone that's contributed. | ||
rebel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 309 Location: Western Colorado | You might check out raysbestbrakes.com. They carry Raybestos products with good coverage for most, if not all, of our cars. Quite a bit cheaper than Rock Auto. Bob | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | Thanks Rebel. I've started the process. I'll let everyone know what happens. | ||
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