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| Always wanted to put a crate motor in something...|
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|Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition||Message format|
|...the motor on my 60 fury (original 318) dropped a valve and is now in need of a rebuild. |
Since I want to drive the car and enjoy it for the looks it brings rather than show it, I was thinking maybe put in a modern engine and EFI for a just a little more reliability and less maintenance.
Anyone have any thoughts or experience on how easy or difficult it is to find a crate motor for this car and put it in?
It has the pushbutton 3spd tranny.
Location: Lower Mainland BC
|A crate motor sounds wonderful BUT it doesn't come with the peripherals that it actually needs to function in a vehicle. I would guess a wrecked 300C or Charger SRT hemi engine with peripherals including the engine management computer would be the way to go if that is what you want. It would need an electric fuel pump to create the fuel pressures needed for the electronic fuel injectors but that is no biggy. |
Location: northern germany
|EFI brings more efficiency but hardly any more reliabilty. and what maintenance requires a carb? actually there is not a lot that could leave you stranded with a good carb. and in case it does you can rebuild/fix it on the side of the road. try that with EFI. the only fuel related break down i ever had was with a new car with EFI. |
a buddy of mine just had to replace a direct injection nozzle funny story. that work alone, i guess, ate up the gas money he saved by using an EFI motor.
Edited by 1960fury 2017-09-13 6:46 PM
|prob need a floor shifter automatic... cable driven. |
you can do a modern crate with an efi carb, Holly sniper is what I think I'm using on my hemi
|EFI is much easier today than it was just a few years ago. You can buy a complete unit that will install on a 4 barrel intake that accepts holley or edelbrock style mounting. Install an oxygen sensor and drive. The units today are self learning units so no need to constantly tune them or have a passenger in the car while driving and tune the fuel map. Granted they are not port injection units, they are throttle body units but you will still get a small improvement in fuel economy and power. |
The port injection units are a little more troublesome due to the need to have an injector port over each intake valve and a fuel rail on each bank. Then there are bank to bank units and sequential units. They just get a little more complicated and involved versus the throttle body units which are almost bolt on and go.
http://fitechefi.com/ is one example of a brand out there.
I would recommend this route over a different engine. It will be cheaper, easier, and faster than a crate engine. Pull your heads off and have them fixed and do a leak down check and compression check. If those check out you are golden.
Edited by 51coronet 2017-09-13 6:01 PM
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth)
|That 318 with a 'Windtunnel' Poly 4 barrel intake and a FITECH or Holley Sniper would be Badass! |
Edited by mstrug 2017-09-13 6:08 PM
mstrug - 2017-09-13 6:06 PM
That 318 with a 'Windtunnel' Poly 4 barrel intake and a FITECH or Holley Sniper would be Badass!
I know where to send the rebuild shop for parts when I can't find a crate engine. That site was awesome.
I never thought of building a stoker out of the block. That is a great idea.
|Great price for that stroker kit. Likely a cast crank though. They use .090 over pistons which is a lot, I would opt for the lowest overbore that they offer but the block needs to be sonic checked before you invest anything. A large part of the displacement increase they are advertising is from using the .090 over pistons and not so much an increased stroke. Don't poly's have steel cranks? If so I wouldn't bother with that kit and just do the minimum overbore you can get pistons for, that will also clean the walls up. Maybe think about a fresh cam and intake. I think you can build a nice thick walled poly for 2k or less with your steel crank. |
For a street machine don't use forged pistons, hypereutectic are good for street.
Bottom line is your stock engine has plenty of potential without huge mods and huge spending. Remember the drivetrain is only as good as the weakest link, so the stronger the engine is the stronger everything else needs to be.
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth)
few articles on the plymouth poly.
Location: Central Ory-Gun
|A couple of thoughts. |
•Roland Osborne, owner/publisher of Chrysler Power Magazine, passed away last April. I have no knowledge of the future of CPM or the parts store. Bruce Toth, Toth Performance may have some details.
•Nothing has been said regarding the mating of a post-62 engine with a pre-62 trans.
This has been a stumbling block for many folks who want to re-power their cars....drum roll please.......yes, I have an adapter in the works. Details to follow, send a note if you have questions.
|Space Trukin Wagon|
|I'm wrestling with the same idea of installing a modern hemi into one of my projects. |
In case you are not aware Mopar parts has a brand new Gen Hemi conversion wiring/controller kits.
They include everything needed to plug & play when using an engine removed from a late model car.
In addition Mopar parts also has complete Gen Hemi crate engines both the 5.7 and 6.4 versions that include the power distribution center, PCM (powertraim control module -unlocked version) and all wiring & sensors needed.
Which for the money is not bad considering the total amount it will cost to have an old engine machined & rebuilt.
All of the major Mopar parts distributor s and dealers have the engine and wiring kits
Here are Part #'s
• 5.7 engine part# 6803088AA
• 5.7 Computer kit part# 77072455AC
• 6.4 crate engine part# 6803090AA
• 6.4 computer kit part# 77072454AC
The main issue for my project is that the wiring kits are designed for manual trans though the 727 auto trans can be adapted and I want to use the original pushbutton shifter set-up
Location: Hilltown, PA
I'm gonna toss an idea out there, a little off the beaten path and might not appeal to your goals, but something to consider.
In the last couple of years I've had occasion to spend a fair amount of time around what I believe are called "2nd Gen" Dodge pick-ups, specifically 1994 to 2001 model years. Many of these trucks were built with "older" style (as in from the 1960's and pre-modern hemi) 318 and 360 drivelines. The 360 trucks run pretty good (the 318 is ok, but no stand-out) and both are equipped with similar speed-density port fuel injection systems. The trucks are common with automatics (pretty sure they're overdrive equipped Torqueflites - someone please confirm/refute that) but there are also manual transmission trucks out there, although I suspect the manual box is a truck unit not compatible with passenger car floorpans.
What makes these trucks interesting is that they rusted pretty severely, at least around here, and can be picked up in good running, but uninspectable condition for anywhere from $500 to $2500 depending on condition. The fact that the plastic dashboards all shatter and collapse has also driven the values down.
If you pick up a 2WD 360 auto truck you get an engine, trans, and re-salable rear axle (they're also in demand) along with everything you would need to make it run in any application - ECU, harness, etc.
Like I said - maybe not your cup of tea, but to me its an interesting and cost effective alternative. . .
|This is a pretty complete thread on options. Thanks folks. In looking over all the options, probably leaning to 51coronet suggestion to just rebuild a mild street motor. I want to keep the tranny and pushbutton shift. Rebuild sounds easiest and least costly. Then i can put more into the interior.|
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