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1960 New Yorker Coupe
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-23 11:57 AM (#550858)
Subject: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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This car migrated its way to my place. This is likely the last forwardlook car I will purchase, other than a parts car. It is all original with power door locks (never knew that was available in '60), power windows, mirrormatic, goldentouch radio, swivel seats (I think manual, but I'm not sure), & power steering and brakes of course. The electro-luminescent lighting doesn't work so that is one of the things on the repair list. The floors and rockers are completely free of rust, but the trunk pan is completely missing from rust, and it rotted out the lower quarters as well. How flat are these trunk pans supposed to be? Would the cheap Ebay pans work OK? A picture of a good trunk pan would be nice.

It runs & drives with very old tires, but over the weekend I converted it to electronic ignition, replaced the starter with a high torque version since the original had some issues, and did a minor tune-up. It runs very well now with gobs of power. It's nice how much these big blocks get these big cars moving! The exhaust is too far inside the car as it lets a considerable amount of exhaust into the open trunk pan. So I will likely extend them out to the sides until I can get the trunk welded up. As soon as I can build up my bank account again, I will order some fabric from SMS so I can sit on the seats without a separate pillow to sit on.



(60NYFront AsBought.jpg)



(60NYRear AsBought.jpg)



(60NYRadio.jpg)



(60NYSeatsLeft.jpg)



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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-23 1:25 PM (#550862 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Very nice!! I also own a 60 Chrysler (Saratoga) 2 door hardtop. Those cables snaking across your front floors are the cables that operate the automatic swivel seats, so your car has the automatic ones, though they may not work. The cables usually broke off where they come through the door jamb to the hinge connection. If you check your door jambs there should also be a vertical torsion bar that works in conjunction with the automatic units, to help pull the door open and swivel the seat out when you exit the car. My cables were also broken, and I ended up removing the torsion bars from the jambs, and disconnected the seat-return springs which are located under the rear of each seat, which effectively makes them manual swivel seats. I think Smitty on the forum here has new cables available, and since you have no carpet in there it would be the time to replace the cables if you want to keep the automatic function. My upholstery and carpets had already been re-done before I bought my car and I didn't want to pull it all apart to replace the cables.


As to your dash lighting, Jeff Carter, http://www.jcauto.com rebuilds the electroluminescent power supplys for these cars.

Edited by imopar380 2017-10-23 3:36 PM
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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-23 2:01 PM (#550863 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Is this the car that was for sale in the Wenatchee, Washington area?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-23 2:26 PM (#550864 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the great info! I was wondering what those vertical bars were for in the door jams. I'll send Smitty a PM once I get the funds available again. Yes, this is the car from Washington. I didn't originally think to purchase it, but the more I checked it over, the more I liked it. My wife and I were thinking of painting it a turquoise-ish blue to match the interior, but looking at this other car, I am thinking of just keeping it white. We'll see.



(70720_Front_3-4_Web.jpg)



(70720_Rear_3-4_Web.jpg)



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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-23 3:11 PM (#550870 - in reply to #550864)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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It would look stunning in turquoise as well. Factory color of Bluegrass metallic is quite nice. Mine's been painted a non stock color but similar to 1961 Tahitian Turquoise and I have a turquoise interior as well.





(saratoga.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-23 3:23 PM (#550872 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Very nice! I like the subtle 2-tone that you have on there too. I wish my exhaust exited where yours does. Mine exits near the beginning of the tail lights and goes straight into the trunk.
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wizard
Posted 2017-10-23 4:21 PM (#550873 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Congrats, nice Project! The car has the correct MirrorMatic and the Safe-T-Matic vacuum door locks as well as the Golden Touch 7-button radio - as Ian noted, also the very rare automatic swivel seats.
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b5rt
Posted 2017-10-23 4:59 PM (#550877 - in reply to #550873)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Here's a reproduction floor pan I bought 4 or 5 yrs ago. Unfortunately it was the last one he made but should give you an idea of how they looked.



(IMG_0383.JPG)



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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-23 5:06 PM (#550879 - in reply to #550873)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Your car also looks like it has a power antenna ( fin mount antenna is power).

John at Big-M Auto http://www.bigmauto.com may have a good used trunk pan.

Edited by imopar380 2017-10-23 5:12 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-23 7:57 PM (#550898 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Sven: Thanks, unfortunately, the mirror-matic has been taken apart and held together with rubber bands now. I need to figure out how to put it back together and see what it needs. I will be referencing your great thread on repairing the electroluminescent lighting. Thanks for documenting that!

Greg: That pan looks great and the majority of it does look flat. I might be able to get away with making something out of flat stock and putting the beads into it. I'm not sure how much of the non-flat portions I am missing though, but your picture should give me a good idea. Thanks for the picture!

Ian: Yes you are right, it does look like a power version. If John has a pan available that would be the easiest solution so I will definitely check with him.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-10-23 7:59 PM
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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-23 9:22 PM (#550905 - in reply to #550898)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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I think this New Yorker is in Bluegrass Metallic, with the turquoise interior!



(4105.jpg)



(4109a.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-24 12:06 AM (#550915 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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That's really pretty. Very tempting. I love the seat fabric in these cars too. I can't imagine having one with plain vinyl.
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sonaramic300
Posted 2017-10-24 9:45 PM (#550986 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe


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Yes the cables and extra springs give it away.
The automatic swiveling seat are super rare. How many has anyone ever seen?
It was discontinued early in 1960. That and the other options on the car make it pretty special.

Edited by sonaramic300 2017-10-24 9:48 PM




(image.jpg)



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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-25 12:02 AM (#550990 - in reply to #550986)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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I sold the door jamb torsion bars and brackets, plus the seat-return springs under the back of the seats to a guy in NY who wanted them for a 60 Phoenix convertible he is restoring.
I'm happy with mine working as manual swivels.
Mine also have the six way power option.
So mine were once automatic power swivel seats, now they are manual power swivel seats!! Does that make sense? ;-)

Edited by imopar380 2017-10-25 12:03 AM
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PlymouthFury
Posted 2017-10-25 8:43 PM (#551052 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Awesome car! I once saw a 1960 Dodge 4dr sedan with no options...but it had power door locks...really odd!

I'd highly recommend not dealing with SMS. I went through all kinds of BS with them recently trying to get '58 Fury fabric. I will never use them again. I've dealt with them 3 times..all three times they pulled some kinda scam on me. Sending me the wrong material and claiming its correct twice...and then not sending anything at all!

Key note: They like to take your money even if they don't have the material after saying they do. It took 4 months and getting my bank involved before that scammer Doug refunded my money. If you do decide to tempt fate...better make sure they actually have it in stock...it would probably be of your best interest to drive to Oregon and pick it up yourself.

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wizard
Posted 2017-10-26 1:04 AM (#551062 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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The New Yorker fabric is named "Congo" even though the pattern looks like snow-stars. It's doubtful that you'll find this material from another supplier than SMS.
I got my order through in less than 3 months when I ordered material for my Saratoga back in 2007.
From what I hear, SMS have looms for to make new material, but that will clearly take longer time.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-26 11:40 AM (#551080 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the diagram Scott. Nice to see that detail without having to take the seats out. It turns out my seats are 6 way power as well, and they work to move the seats back, but no other direction. I should have guessed it from seeing the large red power line going to the seat, but sometimes I am a little slow.

I hear ya Austin. I hate dealing with some of the vendors we are stuck with like SMS; but there really isn't anyone else in the market if you want the original fabric like I do. I could try telling them I will pay for the fabric when they have it in stock. Send it within a month or I will recall the charge. But, the drawback with this approach is they probably won't weave some fabric especially for me, but if they get another order for the same thing, then they might make enough of it to sell some to me. I may try that approach with some of my 57 Chryslers and see how it goes, but I really need this fabric on the '60 so I may just pay and wait/hope for the best.

Someone painted the originally gold air cleaner black at some point so I took some time to strip it and make it gold again. Much better. The new decal for it is in the mail.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-10-26 4:49 PM




(60ChryslerCleaner.jpg)



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imopar380
Posted 2017-10-27 9:19 PM (#551208 - in reply to #551080)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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That air cleaner will look good on a nicely detailed engine!! This is mine, before and after .
The decal is on the wrong side though, but I've since put a new one on the other side - had to repaint the air cleaner again!



Edited by imopar380 2017-10-27 9:23 PM




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(After.JPG)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-28 12:49 AM (#551217 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Nicely done! I really like those valve cover decals. The golden lion motif is pretty neat.
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ABloch
Posted 2017-10-28 12:36 PM (#551227 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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I assume that you've given the guys at https://originalauto.com/ a call already?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-29 12:30 AM (#551253 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Not yet. I will give them a try, but I don't have much hope. When I called them about seat covers for my '57 Windsors, '58 DeSoto, 58 Dodge & 56 Plymouth, they had nothing. But I guess it doesn't hurt to try again for a '60.

I picked up a really nice set of short ram manifolds & all of the hardware (minus exhaust) for the car today at Fall Fling. It even came with NOS balance tube hoses. As I was looking it over, a guy offered to give me cash and trade for a modified set of long rams. These long rams have had the divider wall removed at the mid section to effectively turn them into short rams. So that's why they are welded up on the sides. They have also had the choke wells removed and were setup to be run in some stock car racing class. I don't mind because I will be converting these to use port fuel injection with a completely dry intake. Seems like a better idea to modify a set of highly modified manifolds to run EFI than to do it to a rare set of original short rams in great shape. Not only that but the money offer was too good to refuse

I also have the original exhaust manifolds for them, but I'm not sure yet if I will use them. I need to get a set of air cleaner tops, but the bottoms will be custom to use with the larger throat throttle bodies. All this won't come together for many years though, I'm sure. It isn't a high priority.



(Short Long Rams.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-04 3:03 PM (#551613 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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The decal makes it look better. I haven't yet figured out where I can put the coil so it is less visible. The valve covers are next.



(60NYMotor.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-04 3:17 PM (#551616 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Something is missing on my E-brake to make it work properly. Can anyone tell me what it is so I can ask John at BigM to get me one? Is it just a bracket that is missing to mount it to the dash or is that bent bracket supposed to mount to the dash and is just mangled & ripped?

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-04 3:20 PM




(60EBrake.jpg)



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LostDeere59
Posted 2017-11-04 5:55 PM (#551633 - in reply to #551616)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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The handle is in the released position, so the pedal won't ratchet or lock.

If you lift the release handle upwards the pawl (sharkfin looking thing) SHOULD be spring loaded to catch on the bracket and hold the release handle up - which engages the ratchet for the pedal.

To release the brake you pull the release handle forward LIGHTLY to release the pawl, then push it DOWN to release the pedal ratchet.

Weird, but works.

If you don't know how it functions the temptation is to pull the release like a normal e-brake and then you just break the handle off . . .


Gregg
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1960fury
Posted 2017-11-04 10:41 PM (#551652 - in reply to #551616)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2017-11-04 3:17 PM

Something is missing on my E-brake to make it work properly. Can anyone tell me what it is so I can ask John at BigM to get me one? Is it just a bracket that is missing to mount it to the dash or is that bent bracket supposed to mount to the dash and is just mangled & ripped?


Never seen a 60/61 fl e-brake like that. the ones with the lock safety release handle usually have a straight foot lever, not a curved one. as there was a production change from non lock (with a curved foot lever) to lock handle with a different parkbrake mechanism, in the 1960 calender year, could be somebody tried to adapt the newer handle to the older parking brake?
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LostDeere59
Posted 2017-11-05 12:27 PM (#551676 - in reply to #551652)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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It seems exactly like mine . . .

First pic is with the e-brake applied and locked - note the pawl is hooked on the assembly.

Second pic is with the release handle pulled straight out - the pawl is clear of the bracket.

Third pic is with the release handle pushed down, resulting in the release of the pedal assembly and e-brake.

Last pic is the e-brake still released, but the handle lifted back up and the pawl re-locked.



Edited by LostDeere59 2017-11-05 12:39 PM




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LostDeere59
Posted 2017-11-05 12:42 PM (#551678 - in reply to #551676)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Looking at the pics again I think unless something in the mechanism is frozen/jammed, his issue is that the release handle rod is bent downwards behind the pawl.

Mine has a slight bend (and could probably stand to be straightened to raise the handle slightly) but his appears severely bent.


Gregg
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-11-05 12:46 PM (#551679 - in reply to #551676)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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This is your last of the four photos. Based on the position of the roll pin by the spring, isn't the eBrake on, not off? I might be missing something.

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LostDeere59
Posted 2017-11-05 1:14 PM (#551682 - in reply to #551679)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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56D500boy - 2017-11-05 12:46 PM

This is your last of the four photos. Based on the position of the roll pin by the spring, isn't the eBrake on, not off? I might be missing something.



The release handle and pedal operate separately.

If you look at the distance between the pedal and the bolt head you will see that the PEDAL is in the released position, so the e-brake is off.

You are correct that the pin/spring/pawl is in the extended position - this allows the pawl to engage the bracket, which holds the release handle in the upper position against (or near) the bottom of the dash. So with the pedal RELEASED and the handle UP, the vehicle is ready to drive.

The confusion here is that we're all used to pulling the release handle out, and that releases the pedal, and then we just let go of the handle and it returns to the stored position by itself. On this type of assembly pulling the handle out ONLY releases the pawl that holds the handle up - you can tug on that handle in the out direction all day long (or until you break it or bend it) and the e-brake will not release. ONLY when you push the release handle DOWN towards the floor will the pedal (and therefor e-brake) be released. At that point the release handle is hanging down, pretty much in the way, so by lifting it back up towards the dash, and releasing the outwards tension on it, the pawl re-locks on the bracket and holds the release handle up out of the way.

The horizontal travel of the release handle is very short - perhaps 1/2 inch - because it only releases the handle from storage. It's the vertical motion that releases the e-brake.


Gregg

Edited by LostDeere59 2017-11-05 1:19 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-11-05 1:59 PM (#551686 - in reply to #551682)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Gregg: Thanks. I *WAS* missing something. It is clear(er) now. Certainly a different design than I am used to.

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1960fury
Posted 2017-11-05 2:34 PM (#551691 - in reply to #551676)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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LostDeere59 - 2017-11-05 12:27 PM

It seems exactly like mine . . .





okay learned someting new but in the 30 years with these cars i never saw that version, but i'm only "dealing" with plymouth, dodge and desoto. maybe this is a chrysler only, or long wheelbase thing.
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LostDeere59
Posted 2017-11-05 3:21 PM (#551693 - in reply to #551691)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Mine's a Desoto Fireflite, and a SWB at that . . .

But after almost 60 years who's to say if it's original. There is plenty on this car that isn't


Gregg
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-05 5:41 PM (#551700 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks a lot for the info and photos Gregg! I checked it out and once I broke the rust free to make the handle move properly, it works exactly as you describe. Very weird they did it this way but it does seem to work. To me it seemed like something was missing to latch on to, and I would have never guessed that they intentionally allow it to flop down like that. Releasing in backwards fashion only adds to the mystery, but it seems all is completely normal.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-01 12:46 PM (#555373 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Here is the body tag. Not much info on here like most LA built body tags.



(60NY TagFront.jpg)



(60NY TagBack.jpg)



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ttotired
Posted 2018-01-01 4:45 PM (#555385 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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This is the one in my 60 Plymouth

Only modification is someone made brackets to mount it on the rhs and twisted the pedal accordingly

I think both park brakes above are missing the small spring that lifts the release handle back up.

If you look at the pictures, its the one you see between the mechanism and the A pillar, on yours, it is next to your left foot (easy to get to)

You can see the empty holes on lost deeres pics



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-03 10:40 AM (#565939 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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It took me a while to figure out how to get the '60 Imperial hubcaps to mount to the newer 15x7" wheels. I had to modify the inner structure on them quite a bit, but they sit flat to the rim now and should hopefully stay on. I am planning to fill the "Imperial" lettering on the caps with bondo and then paint that ring silver....or I may just leave it. I'll try it out on one and see what it looks like. But I really like the way these Cali whitewalls & Imperial caps look on here!

I made the mistake of looking under the car and found a rubber expansion plug in the oil pan drain (that was leaking). I pulled it out to find that the threads were completely stripped. So I ordered a tap in the next size up, an oddball 11/16-20 thread used only on '42-'58 Buicks. The tap is coming from China of course so my car is an inclined monument for at least a month until it arrives.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-07-03 11:42 AM




(60NY Wheels.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-07 7:22 PM (#566235 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I received the tap from China yesterday so I tapped the drain plug on the oil pan to 11/16-20 and it worked out perfectly. I used grease on the tap to hopefully retain the shavings to keep them from going into the oil pan. It didn't work. There were quite a bit of metal shavings in there by the time I was finished. I used a powerful magnet attached to a small rod to extract them all out of there. It took multiple times, but I did get them all out that way. I noticed that the oil smelled a little like gasoline so I replaced the fuel pump while I was there. Better safe than sorry. Took it for a drive and it handles really nicely with the new wheels and tires. I really like them, and no issues with the hubcaps staying put either, so I am happy about that.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-19 12:38 PM (#566852 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4668
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Location: So. California
My trunk latch has an enormous amount of slop in it. It is bad enough that you can't open the trunk without jiggling the latch by poking a wire on it from underneath the lid. It doesn't look easy to fix either because it is loose at the actual latch so everything would have to come apart to attempt to fix it. Since I had the remainder of a third latch, I decided to modify a newer latch from a 1985 Plymouth Aries to work with the '60 Chrysler. This latch is really tight like it should be. I cut up the rusted old piece and welded it onto the new one, and cut off the parts that weren't supposed to be on it. I also welded the top ridge on the 2nd guide because the new one didn't have it. This was mainly just to make it look more like the original when you open the trunk because that's the only part of it that you really see. It came out really well, and I am pleased with how it works. Nice solid function without futzing with it anymore.

I noticed that I forgot to weld the ridge to the other side near the remainder of the part number. I will do that tomorrow to make it look better. One annoying thing was that I had to open up the latch by 1/16" because the old catch is bigger than the new one. But it a small enough difference that you can do it with a file.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-07-19 1:59 PM




(Trunk Latch Comparison.jpg)



(Modified Trunk Latch.jpg)



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Attachments Trunk Latch Comparison.jpg (180KB - 24 downloads)
Attachments Modified Trunk Latch.jpg (210KB - 17 downloads)
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imopar380
Posted 2018-07-20 12:06 AM (#566880 - in reply to #566852)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada
Nice work. I used a modern latch from an 80s mopar with the electric option and modified it to fit my 60 Saratoga.
I also welded an adapter plate to the rear but only have 2 of the screw mounts instead of 3 as in the original.

Edited by imopar380 2018-07-20 12:10 AM




(latch.JPG)



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Attachments latch.JPG (39KB - 19 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-20 12:36 PM (#566887 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
That's a nice setup. I have used them in the past, but didn't end up using the electric function very much.

It turns out that the bar wasn't too big, but that you have to get the angle just perfect on the latch or it won't go in. I had a really difficult time with it at first, but by putting a chamfer on the edges of the latch, it gave me more wiggle room to make it work better. I finished welding the other part of the ridge on the right side so it looks better now.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-07-20 3:09 PM




(60NY Latch Backside.jpg)



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Attachments 60NY Latch Backside.jpg (112KB - 17 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-21 7:19 PM (#566975 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4668
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Location: So. California
I picked up these A/C vents from a swap meet recently. I am missing the other plastic connector for them. Can anyone tell me where they go? I don't see a place for them on the dash unless there are removable panels under the dash pad?

Edited by Powerflite 2018-07-21 7:21 PM




(60NY AC Vents.jpg)



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Attachments 60NY AC Vents.jpg (191KB - 17 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-07-22 12:55 AM (#566984 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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For to mount the snorkels, you need to change the dashboard with one from an AC car. Or, take proper measurements and cut the openings in your dash.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-22 1:40 AM (#566987 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Thanks, I was afraid of that answer, but it makes sense.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-09-16 10:04 AM (#570184 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: RE: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4668
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Location: So. California
I finally separated the trunk pan that I bought from BigM from the frame. There are a lot of spot welds holding these things in place and it was too difficult to remove the frame in one piece so I cut it up first. Still wasn't very easy where the welds are hidden, but I managed to get it done. Now I need to weld the holes back in around the outside edges because it needs to be welded from the other side in the car. Also the center section needs to be replaced on this one so I will need to get that done first. My plan is to repair the downturns at the quarters first before I set this in place.

Looks like I will need a new fuel tank too. I see that on Ebay they are listed for '61-'62 only because the fuel inlet is shorter on them. Will those work well in a '60 without modification or do I need to extend that inlet on it first?



(60NY Trunk Pan.jpg)



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Attachments 60NY Trunk Pan.jpg (252KB - 5 downloads)
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b5rt
Posted 2018-09-16 1:57 PM (#570194 - in reply to #550858)
Subject: Re: 1960 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: central Illinois
For the gas tank go to Classic Car Auto Parts. I've tried sharing the link before but it never works. I bought their tank and it's a great piece, even has the drain plug.
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