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1955 dodge 4bbl oil bath air cleaner wanted Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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'55-3Hemi |
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Regular Posts: 75 Location: VIrginia | Hi all! | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | You are looking for an air cleaner that looks like the one below (only in black). Unlike the 2bbl air cleaner the 4bbl air cleaner with its 4+" throat is not attached with a circular clamp but with a stud in the 4bbl carb and a wingnut. Here are two shots of a very nicely detailed very early 55 Custom Royal 270 that has been converted from 2 bbl to 4 bbl. The embossed valve covers are a feature of the early 55 270s. The car is local to me and the owner is meticulous. The only issue that I see now is a missing Carter glass-bowl fuel filter that should be attached to the carburetor inlet. Notice the routing of not only the fuel line but also the exhaust heat tube from the right exhaust manifold to the carb choke. Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-14 1:12 PM (NicelyDetailedEarly55_270HemiWithFactoryEmbossedValveCoversThatHaveBeenPainted.jpg) (LeftSideOf55_2704bblEngine.jpg) Attachments ---------------- NicelyDetailedEarly55_270HemiWithFactoryEmbossedValveCoversThatHaveBeenPainted.jpg (136KB - 112 downloads) LeftSideOf55_2704bblEngine.jpg (187KB - 111 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | Yeah, except that the '55 version is a little different from the '56. The base of the '55 is a little taller, and the lid has ribs on it. But I believe that '55 Chrysler used the same cleaner as the '56 so there is some overlap in that year. There is a '56 version for sale on Ebay right now. I believe this is the 4bbl version. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-Chrysler-Imperial-New-Yorker-Wind... Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-14 1:30 PM | ||
'55-3Hemi |
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Regular Posts: 75 Location: VIrginia | Wow!, Thanks for the pictures for it is exactly what I am looking for. They answer a lot of questions. Is the hot water hose from the water pump (2nd picture) attached to the carb via a clip? Where can one get the white choke insulation cover material -- This site is great!!!! Enclosed a picture of my rebuilt wcfb (1st attempt) Replated carb with the Caswell plating system but was not sure of the factory carter colors. The black choke cover is not correct (came off a 1955 Desoto) Edited by '55-3Hemi 2017-12-14 2:45 PM (1-DSC09677.JPG) Attachments ---------------- 1-DSC09677.JPG (183KB - 102 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2017-12-14 1:21 PM Yeah, except that the '55 version is a little different from the '56. The base of the '55 is a little taller, and the lid has ribs on it. But I believe that '55 Chrysler used the same cleaner as the '56 so there is some overlap in that year. There is a '56 version for sale on Ebay right now. I believe this is the 4bbl version. I wasn't sure if this 55 Lancer air cleaner was sitting on a 4bbl or 2 bbl carb but it does have the ribs on top. The eBay Chrysler air cleaner is like the one that I bought and have been modifying (but not lately) to run two FRAM filters, ala Dave Homstad. WORK in PROGRESS: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=64043&... | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | The one you show is a 2bbl air cleaner. The 4bbl ribs are not as pronounced. I wish I had saved a picture of it, but I didn't so I don't have one to show you. I finished the air filter conversion on mine and finally got it painted too. (56AirCleaner.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56AirCleaner.jpg (220KB - 91 downloads) | ||
'55-3Hemi |
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Regular Posts: 75 Location: VIrginia | Many thanks for the pictures..... I do like the idea of modifying the oil bath to paper elements. I am also adding a PCV valve from Hot Heads. Making a 'T" connection to the PB booster vacuum line with 1/4" copper heavy wall tubing. Trying to make it look stock if I can. Really wish the WCFB came with a vacuum port for the dodge for I am concerned about the vacuum loss via the pcv at the manifold connection under idle conditions. Thanks guys!!!! | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | '55-3Hemi - 2017-12-14 1:48 PM Wow!, Thanks for the pictures for it is exactly what I am looking for. They answer a lot of questions. Is the hot water hose from the water pump (2nd picture) attached to the carb via a clip? Where can one get the white choke insulation cover material -- This site is great!!!! I am not sure if that little hose guide/clip is stock or the owner's attempt (successful) at guiding the hose up and over and away from the embossed valve cover that he restored complete with the painting of the embossed Super Red Ram. As for the choke tubing it could be something like this: | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I can strongly recommend to modify the oil bath air "cleaner" - the oil bath air cleaners doesn't work very well. I've done several modifications on MoPar and GM cars for to get better protection for the Engine. | ||
'55-3Hemi |
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Regular Posts: 75 Location: VIrginia | Nice paint job on the air cleaner. What brand of paint did you use? Any pointers oh how to cut the metal inside the air cleaner. I was thinking of using a Dremal with a side cutting bit (Still learning how to find old posts in this site) Thanks for all of the help | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | Thanks, it is a single stage polyurethane paint made by Ellis. The polyurethanes go on really thick, but they give a high quality finish. If I were to do it again though, I would probably get it powder coated. Powder coating is more durable and that is more important for something that gets taken on and off regularly. To cut it out, I used a cutting wheel on a die grinder from Harbor Freight. I really like this tool because it has a lot of power and can get into most places that I need it. When you cut the lid, I recommend that you leave a good sized lip on it so that it can protrude down into the cleaner, just like the stock version. If you cut it too high up, you will be able to see the paper filters and it won't look as good. Also be aware that there is a lot of 60 year old pig hair in the lid. Catch it on fire, and it is gonna stink up something terrible. https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-4... | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2017-12-16 10:44 AM To cut it out, I used a cutting wheel on a die grinder from Harbor Freight. I really like this tool because it has a lot of power and can get into most places that I need it. When you cut the lid, I recommend that you leave a good sized lip on it so that it can protrude down into the cleaner, just like the stock version. If you cut it too high up, you will be able to see the paper filters and it won't look as good. Also be aware that there is a lot of 60 year old pig hair in the lid. Good answer Nathan. I wish that I had known that you had made the conversion and asked how you did your cutting. I just used a hack saw and aviation tin snips. The latter leaving a lot of ragged edges that I haven't dealt with yet because I don't have the correct tool. I will now seek out a die grinder as you suggest. A Dremel isn't up to this scale of task. As for how much lower lip to leave on the underside of the lid, I guessed at 1/2". It shows a bit of paper filter but it hides the orange rubber of the FRAM filter. If I had it to do over, I would make the lip 3/4". Dave Homstad recommended 1.5" but to me, that was going to "hide" some of the paper filter from the airflow. REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=64043&... What I am still staring at (BUT will be able to clean up with my new (yet to be purchased) die grinder and cut-off wheel. (Thanks Nathan)). Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-16 11:56 AM | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2017-12-16 11:54 AM What I am still staring at (BUT will be able to clean up with my new (yet to be purchased) die grinder and cut-off wheel. (Thanks Nathan)). Yesterday I searched out a cheap die grinder but did not find one. The air ones are <$20 but you need >10 cfm airflow. My little compressor will only do 5 cfm = fail. What I did find was a Dremel kit: I was telling my fabricator neighbour about the Dremel kit and he asked about a plug grinding stone. I was all deer in the headlights. Anyway, he found one for me in his garage and brought it over. I put it on my angle grinder and it's going to work great. It did got rid of a bunch of those little metal teeth very rapidly. Probably take 30 minutes to finish the job. (and then 2 hours cleaning out the debris). I think I will keep the Dremel kit because I will use it in the future for little metal cutting jobs. Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-22 5:51 PM | ||
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