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Veteran
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Location: Southern CA | The TDC line on my 57 392 damper does not line up with the timing tab on the timing cover on the passenger side of the engine, when #1 is TDC. Also, I can feel and hear a slight amount of movement when I move the damper outer ring front to back. I’m convinced the rubber is bad and the outer ring has slipped, and I need to get it rebuilt. The vendors Damper Doctor and Dale Manufacturing both claim that they will set the timing mark back to factory spec during the rebuild. Seems that would set the balance back to factory also as I imagine the unit was balanced to itself at the factory. Anyone here have experience with this issue? Was your timing mark correct after the rebuild? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
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Expert
Posts: 3887
  
Location: Northen Virginia | I had the same problem, but my Damper was overseas so rebuild it was not an option do to the shipping weight. Fortunately for me I found a NOS in the box unit years ago.
But instead of try your luck, go to hot Hemi head, they have very affordable dampers. |
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Veteran
Posts: 241
Location: Southern CA | I’ll give them a call. On their “street performance” damper the ad says the following: “It is manufactured specifically for the early hemi as a replacement unit and features 90 degree timing marks for ease in valve adjustment, as well as a TDC location to match "Hot Heads" as well as OEM timing covers with drivers side TDC pointer.” Mine is on the passenger side. Maybe new is better though, I’ll see what they say tomorrow. |
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Veteran
Posts: 141
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Hello,
I just had to repair the harmonic ballencer on my 48 Plymouth Flathead Six. I found a company by the name of "The Damper Dudes", only cost me $160 with a fast turnaround. I called them and they seemed like they knew what they were doing. It worked great for me, seems like the car runs so much smoother now that it is in proper time. If you can't find them on web, I'll find my receipt to give you the phone number.
Good Luck,
Ernie |
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal |
I've had dampers rebuilt by both the Damper Dudes and the Damper Doctor; both do a great job. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | I was about to use a modified 340 balancer from Hot Heads, but decided against it because I had a good original on hand that I like better. Keep in mind that the new balancers require you to elongate one hole on your pulley because the bolts are evenly spaced, not like the original 392 with one bolt off from the rest. That may mess with your balance a little, so welding in the old hole may be in order. I haven't checked the offset for pulley alignment between them. But it seems that Hot Heads can't imagine anyone choosing to run the original water pump and timing cover on these motors, so the pulley alignment for the new one may be set to the Chevy pump & pulleys, not necessarily to the original setting. I just don't know where it is. Your only hope with the new balancers is if the Hot Heads position is 90 degrees off from the original - which it might be. In which case, you would have a mark on there to go off of. Either that, or try to engrave your own mark after you set the TDC with a dial gauge.
Anyway, these are some possible issues you may run into, so it is best to call HotHeads and ask him about these things ahead of time if you would like to purchase something from him. Rebuilding your original is less risky.
Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-05 5:43 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | The damper-ring does not 'balance' the crank/engine. The engine is balanced internally.
The ring simply 'dampens' engine and valve train harmonics to prevent engine damage.
IMO, the correct terminology should always be "Harmonic damper" for internally balanced engines, and not 'balancer' or even 'Dampner' like some believe it spells.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | The name is technically correct if the motor is externally balanced, but I'm sure you will continue to be annoyed by me because I doubt I will learn to call an old dog by a new name. We all know what it does and doesn't do. Even Bob Walker calls it that and I'm sure he realizes it is internally balanced. |
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Veteran
Posts: 241
Location: Southern CA | Thanks for the replies guys. While the unit may not “balance” the crankshaft it is balanced to itself when manufactured, and once the ring spins it is no longer balanced to itself and is not good for the crankshaft.
Nathan, thanks for the insight, I didn’t anticipate that the pulley bolts don’t line up or possibly a pulley alignment issue. Assuming there is not a deep groove from the seal in mine, I’m getting it rebuilt. I’m waiting for a better fitting socket to arrive so I can pull mine off and check it. I decided to turn the engine #1 TDC and mark an exact spot on the damper before I send it in for rebuild. The rebuilder can check or clock that location (as related to key slot) to insure the final clock location will be correct. I’ll be busy in the meantime cleaning and painting all the parts on the front of the engine.
Edit: I did cal hot heads and they stated that the “stock replacement” timing mark would not line up with the stock tab on my engine.
Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-01-09 12:31 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3887
Location: Northen Virginia | why in the world hotheads is selling if it is not stock?
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Veteran
Posts: 241
Location: Southern CA | So I got the rebuilt damper back from Damper Doctor and it looks like the timing mark is in the correct position, although I haven’t reinstalled it yet. I pulled the timing cover to replace the seal and noticed that the chain seems a bit stretched. I can move it back and forth on the loose side. Following the service manual, I turned the cam gear to the right, marked the position of a top link, turned it back to the left and measured how far the link moved, about 0.09”. The manual says to replace it if it moves more than 0.187”. The chain is not a “roller link” like the Edelbrock replacement set I found. Should I change it? Also, what method do you guys use for installing the new seal into the timing chain cover? I had a heck of a time getting the old one out. Thanks. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | Getting the old seal out is the hard part. Putting a new one in is easy. Just use a 4x4 piece of woood if you don't have the proper seal driver. But put a coating of RTV around the outside of it before you drive it in. The timing chains can get amazingly loose and still run pretty decent. But I would definitely change it now. It's only $80 for a new one and you can upgrade to a better quality so your motor will be more responsive with a new chain and outlast the motor. Now is a good time to think about changing the cam if you would like to as well, although that does involve the lifters too which is more work and money. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| hemidenis - 2018-01-09 4:16 PM why in the world hotheads is selling if it is not stock? its an upgrade, you can get a real performance damper for these cars also. they sell 4 dampers. The "stock" style is the 340 one. I am worried about my damper honestly... these things are old... http://hothemiheads.com/hotheadspi2.html#H |
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Veteran
Posts: 241
Location: Southern CA | Thanks for the advice Nathan. I’ll get the new timing set, Edelbrock #7803 is listed as a replacement and is $64 on Summit. It looks like the best option to me. I thought about a new camshaft and now would be a good time to do it, but the car runs good and I don’t want to dismantle it any further at this time. I already have a stack of parts awaiting restoration and a tight space to work in. Regarding the seal installation, the seal sits about 3/16” below the inside face of the timing cover, so a block of wood could be used to get it flush, but the additional 3/16” I would need a driver on some sort, like a big socket or thick washer that is slightly smaller than the OD of the seal. None of my seal or freeze plug drivers are large enough. Wish I had a lathe, I could make one. Thanks |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | I'll offer a word of caution regarding the use of LA chain sets on an EarlyHemi. Not all cam sprockets allow the Woodruff key to extend enough to engage the fuel pump eccentric. Be sure to verify that you have the proper engagement.
I have found enough 'problem' sprockets that I made a drill jig so that I could install a hardened pin to drive the eccentric. YRMW |
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Veteran
Posts: 241
Location: Southern CA | Thanks for the advice Gary, I’ll keep an eye on that. I haven’t tried to install it yet but the thicknesses all look like a match.
So I got lucky on the seal installer, I measured the seal and found the exact size race driver I needed on epay, who knew!
Edited to revise opinion of fitment of Edelbrock timing set.
Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-02-01 11:49 PM
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Harmonic Balancer Rebuild - Timing Tab Alignment
