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A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-05 7:37 PM (#557571)
Subject: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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Will a modern torque converter with a higher stall slip right in to, say my 57 Surburban's Torqueflight? We're putting together a motor with a more radical camshaft into a 62 Dodge with a 361 and a Torqueflight. I know that the housings are different between the 57 and the 62 but the 62 seems to be very similar to the later versions but without being cable shift. What we don't know is if a modern front clutch drum and torque converter...input shaft, etc would interchange between a "lever shift" modern 727 and a 62 cable shift and even a 57 cable shift version 727. The immediate job is the 62 but I also want to freshen up the trans in my Surburban this winter. It's got a front pump seal leak that I've been putting off for a couple of seasons already. It's time get that done too.

Maybe some people that are experienced with rebuilding the oldies that are knowledgeable about the interchange between later model stuff and the older stuff would like to discuss the parts that do interchange, what doesn't and even what will but would not be a good idea for some reason?

I've got quite a pile of modern 727 stuff. If, for example the front drums are the same, pump components are the same and so on, I could easily toughed up and older unit that is tired.

I actually have the same question about differentials. It looks like a later model, say a 69 suregrip would bolt into the housing of the 57 Surburban (both 8 3/4") but did they use the same number of axle splines, the same depth of spline engagement etc? Do they actually bolt in or does it just look like they do?

Thanks in advance,

Wayne
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Mopar1
Posted 2018-02-06 11:11 AM (#557601 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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The '57 converter bolts to the crank hub with nutted studs, the modern one uses a flexplate bolted to the hub. You can tap the holes on the hub with a 1/2-20 tap & use a 426 hemi flexplate, at least with the modern tranny. The 65-67 or so C body rear axle bolts into most mopars, I'd just swap the whole thing out.
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Shep
Posted 2018-02-06 1:40 PM (#557605 - in reply to #557601)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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727 and cast iron torqueflite internals do not interchange.
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57chizler
Posted 2018-02-06 3:21 PM (#557608 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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All 8 3/4" center sections will physically interchange in the housing and the axle splines are the same but there are variations in the axle shaft length in pre-'64 installations...the open differential takes a longer axle shaft than the Sure-Grip.

Although the crankshaft flange bolt pattern is the same, it's not possible to simply mate a 727 to the early crank due to the difference in the flange length; adapters are needed.
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1960fury
Posted 2018-02-06 3:35 PM (#557609 - in reply to #557608)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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57chizler - 2018-02-06 3:21 PM




Although the crankshaft flange bolt pattern is the same


is it? from what i heard its 2 bolts less and threaded on non hemi cars in the 62+ cars.
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58coupe
Posted 2018-02-06 4:56 PM (#557612 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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The 62 and newer 727 (not the smaller 904) are all very similar in design and parts but I believe there was a change in the splines for the torque converter around 69. The 70 and newer TCs will interchange and you can find high stall units very easily. Some companies used to make high stall units for the 62-69 torqueflites but they may be hard to find now.
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Mopar1
Posted 2018-02-06 5:39 PM (#557614 - in reply to #557609)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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1960fury - 2018-02-06 2:35 PM

57chizler - 2018-02-06 3:21 PM




Although the crankshaft flange bolt pattern is the same


is it? from what i heard its 2 bolts less and threaded on non hemi cars in the 62+ cars.
The 426 Hemi has the same 8 bolt pattern that the "up to '61" cars had. as mentioned above, the early crankflange holes have to be tapped out with a 1/2-20 tap.

Edited by Mopar1 2018-02-06 5:41 PM
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wayfarer
Posted 2018-02-08 10:53 AM (#557685 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Perhaps a bit fuzzy, I think jaded says that the 361 is a 62. As to a pre-62 B-RB engine, a 'spacer' will be required at the block to make up for the crank flange extension that was typical on all pre-62 engines (exc slant 6) and the crank flange will also require an adapter to provide registration for the flexplate. Post-62 B-RB will have a 'normal' 6-bolt crank flange.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-08 11:24 AM (#557686 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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The internals of a later 727 will bolt into your '62 push button 727, but I believe you need to swap out most of it as a unit, and run the later style tailshaft. I *believe* that only the early valve body & housing is retained. This guy can build you one of these modified transmissions.

http://www.727specialist.com/

'58Coupe is right that the '62 trans has a 19 spline input shaft which is different than the later versions and is hard to get a torque converter for it. I needed to find 2 stock converters recently without a core, and it was difficult, but I did eventually find a place that had them. Getting a high performance version of those is probably very tough. Swapping parts between the cast iron torqueflite and the aluminum A727 is impossible.

On the 8 3/4, *IF* your car originally came with a sure grip rear, then you can swap out the gear with the later versions with no issues. If it was originally open, then the axles are 1/8" too long to do this. Your options are to swap the center pins between the two gear sets (which requires you to remove the carriers, and not too difficult to do), or to shorten your axles by 1/8". I usually just shorten the axles which requires you to remove the chamfer on the end of them, which happens to be 1/8" deep.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-08 11:27 AM
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57chizler
Posted 2018-02-08 1:26 PM (#557694 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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jaded13640 - 2018-02-05 4:37 PM
What we don't know is if a modern front clutch drum and torque converter...input shaft, etc would interchange between a "lever shift" modern 727 and a 62 cable shift


'67 was the year that the 727 input shaft changed from 19 to 24 splines. The pre-'67 trans can be fitted with the later input shaft but the reaction shaft support must also be changed. All of the gear train can also be updated to later parts (no later than '73) and this is advisable in a '62-'63 because the planetary gears were failure prone.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-08 10:14 PM (#557720 - in reply to #557694)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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What changed in '73 that prevents you from using the later model parts?
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57chizler
Posted 2018-02-09 2:13 PM (#557769 - in reply to #557720)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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The output shaft changed; in '74 the included angle of the splines for the front planetary changed from 60° to 75° and in '94 it was changed again to 90°.

This was an attempt to prevent failure of the splines in the aluminum planet carrier but it didn't work. Only a change to steel carriers will prevent this failure.

EDIT: '76 was the year the splines changed.

Edited by 57chizler 2018-02-10 4:36 AM
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-15 10:34 PM (#558180 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: RE: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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I probably should have been more specific. I thought I would try to gain generic knowledge about interchange but that was a mistake.

Let me get more specific on an individual basis per job I'm doing at the time.

I'm specifically working on a 62 Dodge Custom 880. We're building a 400 with steel crank to replace the very worn, very tired 361. First I need to come up with a way to add more stall because we're using more cam than a stock converter will allow for. I was just talking to a guy today who's pretty knowledgeable about 727, especially early 60s big block 727s. He said the converters will not interchange and showed me the difference between the two converters. One has a wider slot that goes into the pump tangs and the narrower, the 62 version, is much deeper. He said "all you'll need to do is use a modern pump assembly on the 62 transmission, I happen to have a few of them from anywhere from 66 to whenever they started using the lock up converters. I don't have any lock up stuff at all.

The only other option I can see is to take the 62 converter to a converter building have them "loosen it up". Clearly this would be the far more expensive option and even then, I'd be kind of leary about the results in the end.

Can anyone verify that information regarding being able to just use the pump assembly from a later model?

Thanks,

Wayne
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-16 10:42 PM (#558238 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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I've got an update. I got the motor and trans out of the 62 Dodge Custom 880. Much to my surprise, the converter, the factory one that was in the trans, more than likely the original factory unity, has the same width and depth of slots that drive the pump. However, I attempted to install a modern torque converter, with the same dimensions on the pump drive slots but it wouldn't go in. When I was over at that dude's house he showed me a modern one and one from a 62 and the slots were clearly different to the naked eye...without measuring. The 62 unit has a narrower slots and are deeper than the modern one. If dude is right about the slots being the only difference, I'm just not getting it properly lined up. I have run into that in the past, I recall, on a 76 Duster with the slant 6, I was not able to get the converter to line up until we stood the trans on end and kept messing with it until, "clunk" it dropped right in. It was the converter that came out of it. After replacing the converter seal I put the same comverter back in the same trans. I know that the inner shaft, that the converter goes over and engages with, is the input shaft. I believe that outer thing, that is splined and goes into the converter is referred to as the support. But I can't swear to that being the exact name. It would be that the "support is a different diameter or has a different spline...I don't know. Again, I've never done much with the push button transmission.

So, at this point, I don't know if there are more differences between the 62 converter and the modern one we're attempting to use than the pump drive slots alone. So, again, if anyone has more info on the interchangability of converters, I could REAlly use that help.

Thanks in advance,

Wayne
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Shep
Posted 2018-02-17 7:46 PM (#558274 - in reply to #558238)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Have you checked the spline count and diameter of the input shaft and reaction support between the the trans That the convertor came out of and the one you are trying to install it it in?

Edited by Shep 2018-02-17 7:49 PM
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mstrug
Posted 2018-02-17 7:56 PM (#558276 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/identifying-torqueflites....

http://smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransmissionsintro/id9.html

http://bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/5237

http://www.atiracing.com/products/adapterk/akit.htm

http://non-stoptransmission.com/en/info-converters.php





Edited by mstrug 2018-02-17 8:11 PM
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-18 10:50 PM (#558376 - in reply to #558274)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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Shep - 2018-02-17 7:46 PM

Have you checked the spline count and diameter of the input shaft and reaction support between the the trans That the convertor came out of and the one you are trying to install it it in?


Spline count yes, diameters no. I got a core from a friend and the converter we want to use is correct for it. The plan is to use the donor trans' pump assembly and input shaft/rear drum assembly, possibly the front drum if necessary.
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Shep
Posted 2018-02-19 12:48 PM (#558406 - in reply to #558376)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Ok, so both transmissions you are using here are 727s?
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57chizler
Posted 2018-02-19 5:17 PM (#558417 - in reply to #558238)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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jaded13640 - 2018-02-16 7:42 PM

I know that the inner shaft, that the converter goes over and engages with, is the input shaft. I believe that outer thing, that is splined and goes into the converter is referred to as the support. But I can't swear to that being the exact name. It would be that the "support is a different diameter or has a different spline...I don't know.


The outer stationary splines are called the reaction shaft support, it supports the stator inside the converter. The input shafts in the pic below, the upper shaft is the pre-'67 19-spline and the lower one is the '67-later 24-spline.

By changing the two parts it is possible to use the later converter....a wise upgrade.



(Inputshafts.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Inputshafts.jpg (66KB - 27 downloads)
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-28 2:03 PM (#558993 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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Shep, yes, both 727's.

I got the pump assembly, the input shaft/front clutch/rear clutch packs out. The rear clutch assembly, with frictions and steels still in it interfaces with the planetaries. That was my first concern. Now to "test fit" everything back together and make sure the depth of the input shaft ends up correct to allow for using the modern torque converter. If so, then I should be fine with using the rest of the original trans' internals. The friend that gave me the donor trans said he's done this a number of times for the same reason I am, you can't really just buy a converter for the old transmission, for all intents and purposes. I don't know how much they'd be able to "loosen up" a stock converter from a 62 but I'm guessing it wouldn't be nearly enough to allow for a .509 purple shaft, which is what we have and are planning on using.

I'll post an update this evening as to whether or not the depth worked out right. According to my friend, that donated the donor trans, it will. But, before I go ordering a rebuild kit I want to be sure.

One question he wasn't 100% sure on was if you can use a modern trans filter on the 62 or not. He said he was pretty sure he had and that you could. What's in it is a screen type washable deal and one of the cooler lines had a filter "in-line". I may be able to get a new "in-line" style but would prefer to eliminate it if the modern "cloth type" will match up and clear.

Does anyone know for sure on that?

I actually used to use a "screen type"/washable on my race trannies but I was changing fluid every other weekend because I was running an aluminum front clutch drum. It, for whatever reason, turns the fluid to "mud" if you try to push it much past a couple of weekends if you go many rounds. So I usually could easily go a couple of weekends! LOL I could make them go fast but never was very good on the tree.

The other thing I meant to ask about was, what can be done to improve these things a bit? I'm familiar with the "toss the wavy snap ring trick" but we don't really want to go so far as to do a shift kit, they may really not be available for that valve body anyway. Maybe I would go with a 5 disk front clutch drum, possibly a more aggressive front band apply lever etc but I don't know how much the planetaries will tolerate on the 62' 727 even if they were new. We're not planning on putting a suregrip in it now BUT that's only because I'm out of time before I have to have back surgury the middle of March. If it turns out it's not that big of an issue, as far as interchangeability, we may go down that road next winter. I'm basically just spit-balling what mild upgrades this transmission should tolerate given that a suregrip is on the wish list for next winter.


Thanks,

Wayne

Edited by jaded13640 2018-02-28 2:34 PM
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57chizler
Posted 2018-02-28 3:28 PM (#558995 - in reply to #558993)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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A couple of observations, the '62-'63 Max Wedges had a pretty hairy cam and they used the tightest converter ever built and they idled in gear pretty well.

The pre-'66 transmissions had two pumps so, when changing from the inlet screen to a filter, the filter must have two inlet openings. The later Dacron filter is far superior to any screen but might not fit in the early pan with a drain plug. In many of the later filters with a single inlet, the steel frame inside the filter still has the second opening but it is covered by fabric, probe with a finger tip for the opening and, if it's there, trim away the fabric with a razor blade or Exacto knife.

The '62 planetary gears had their pinion axle shafts secured with a taper pin that extended only half way through the axle shaft, these pins failed quite often allowing the axle to come out of the carrier. Late '63 and later have the axles retained by a full-length taper pin.



(Filters.jpg)



(Earlyplanet close.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Filters.jpg (66KB - 25 downloads)
Attachments Earlyplanet close.jpg (77KB - 20 downloads)
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-02-28 9:27 PM (#559024 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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57chizler, thanks for the info. I was not aware of either of those facts.

I did a "dry run" assembly and found everything fits. I'll be ordering parts tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks again for all that helped,

Wayne
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-03-01 6:42 AM (#559035 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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The planetary axle pin only going half way in was great info because it tells me that I'm fairly limited on what I can get away with on this particular transmission. Unless of course I were upgrading planetaries too.

What I ran into with big cams and not enough stall was bog at the launch at the track. I'm not familiar with the grind used or how they pulled it off with a tight converter. Personally, I didn't have much luck getting away with much. I was REALLY good at figuring out what just plain wouldn't work. I have proven you can't use a .590 purple shaft with a 3200 stall converter. But, I had to try, it was the only one I had. The poor thing didn't wake up till the top end.

Was the pic of the two filters taken by you? Can you tell me the rough dimensions of the smaller one? I'm sure you're right about that not working with a pan with a drain plug. They show one on the site I was looking at last night but it doesn't give you any specs on it, I'll have to call and ask them personally. It's interesting that the site, PATC lists all the master kits as 71 and up. Or it may have been 71 to 79 on some as I think that was when they might have started using the lock ups.

Maybe someone can help me out with a parts resource that can actually get me 62 torqueflight parts? Maybe something a little more early sixties Mopar friendly? The frictions and steels appear to all be the same, of course with the exception of the selective ones used for fitting one extra in, but it seems to me the sealing rights were different in some cases.

Here's a good question that just popped into my mind, which is better the aluminum or whatever metallic material they use in sealing rings vs the teflon rings you see in some kits? I think in some cases it's a year thing but I have hear GM guys say "only use these" or whatever but I don't think I've asked this about Mopar stuff. I used to have a guy who was a great resource on what kit to order because it can get a little confusing but he's since moved away and we've lost touch. I think the sealing rights on the input shaft would benefit from being metallic but I guess that's just a gut feeling that they might need to be tougher. I have found myself being forced to use what was in the kit and sometimes they were different than what was originally on the transmission. Again, could be a year thing, might just be a cost thing or maybe there's a benefit to the softer materials in some specific locations?I think also that sometimes the issue was that they only had a kit available for one range of years.

I decided to give it one more day and do a little more research before ordering parts, even though I'm on a time crunch. I'd rather get the best situation even if it costs me another day.

Thanks in advance and for all answers so far.

Wayne

I just remembered I used a place in Flint MI., about a half an hour from me called Transtar, a year or so ago but it was for a common kit, like 71 and up. I could call them and see if they have anything speciffic for the 62 model year.

Edited by jaded13640 2018-03-01 7:10 AM
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57chizler
Posted 2018-03-01 4:08 PM (#559063 - in reply to #559035)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Yes, the filter pic is mine. The small filter measures 6 3/4" X 5 1/4", the larger one is 7" X 6 1/2". The '73-later filter is larger yet by about 50%.

The pre-'71 gasket/seal kits are getting hard to find, one source that has them is CRT:

http://coperacingtranscom.ipage.com/?product=727-seal-gasket-kit-62...

The metal sealing rings are cast iron, the plastic sealing rings are in favor now, they seem to seal and last better but either one works.
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-03-01 4:41 PM (#559065 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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So you prefer the nylon or teflon or plastic...whateverdahellday are huh? Good to know. My gut feeling was that the softer material might seal a little better but would wear out faster. Actually...in this case that's fine. This car won't get 4k miles a year on it. That trans will last forever.

Thanks so much for all your help so far. I'll check that link when I come back in tonight. I just came in for a few minute break...got sore. I'm working on a pain in the rear 97 Sunfire. The waterpump is kind of a nightmare. It wouldn't be so bad if the exhaust bolt that supports the lower radiator cross under tube was a, accessible and b, wasn't seized into the manifold. I have to get that bolt out and loosen the 4 that hold the exhaust to the manifold. I heated the crap out of one and it wouldn't budge. I think I'll have to try the old trick I use on brake bleeders, heat em red and pour cold water on em, repeat 3 or more times and let cool. It seems to shock them and virtually always come out. I've not yet tried it on exhaust bolts, never needed to, they, until now always just came out when heated. I have a feeling they had the exhaust off before and stripped them, and just forced a larger bolt or different threaded bolt into the holes. That's about the only thing I can think of that would make them not budge even after ample heat. Oh well, if this was easy people would do it themselves right? LOL

Thanks again,

Wayne
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Shep
Posted 2018-03-01 7:53 PM (#559082 - in reply to #559065)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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The 727 trans in my 64 Max Wedge car had the 4 pinion Hemi planetaries, never lost the trans in 1500 runs, over 6 years, going11.0 at 122, back in the day. B and M 069J convertor, 9 " tires, 4.88 gears, back in the late 70's-80's The metal rings did tend to wear out on the pump support. But I redid the trans every season. Turbo action valve body used at the time.
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-03-01 9:13 PM (#559088 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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I actually used one of those valve bodies on the very first race trans I built. I bought a manual, the same one I'll refer to if I have to look up a spec or something on this project, and just took my time. My only mistake was that I didn't "stake" the converter bushing well enough so it spun and came out. At first I assumed that I didn't get the seal in right but when I pulled the converter out the bushing came with it....oops. I spent a lot of money teaching myself how to do this crap but it was crystal clear very early on that you had to either be wealthy or be able to build your own engines, transmission, rear ends and such. Needless to say I wasn't wealthy. LOL

And as far as the ring grooves in the support, I was surprised when the guy at the trans shop showed me the grooves and told me it was junk. Of course I freaked at first because I didn't know a new one was only like 30 bucks, if that, can't recall now but it was pretty cheap. It seems to me that's about the only hard part I ever had to replace. Though I never had an issue with an over running clutch sprague, I started using the "bolt ins" as soon as I heard what could happen if one went to hell on you. It didn't take long before I learned about aluminum front drums those sticky blow frictions. That was the ticket! They told me, at my power level, it was good for two tenths. I was highly skeptical about that but sure enough, I gained two tenths. One of these days I'll get the motor together and back in and get back out to the track.

So what was the body of your 64 Max Wedge car?

I never had a set of max wedge heads, I went from a set of 906's that were shaved down almost to flat area of the combustion chamber to a set of Indy Cylinder Heads' 440-1's. I got them about 20 years ago or more and still have em. I just went through them and was starting the build of my new 500 stroker when I went through a divorce. I've got most of the pieces to put the motor together now but I'll probably have to wait till the summer after this one. I think I'll be down 5 months or so for the back surgery but it'll wait. The next big item, that put me in the low nines, was the Enderle Bird Catcher on methanol. What a sweet deal! I'll never go back to a pain the butt carb again unless I absolutely have to.

If you ever want to see the car running a 9.27 at 148, I've got it on youtube.

Thanks again for all the help. I had zero experience with a push button of any sort.

Wayne

Edited by jaded13640 2018-03-01 9:27 PM
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-03-05 1:21 PM (#559276 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


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The only thing I haven't inquired about, because I forgot...duh, is the part number for the O ring that seals the shifter assembly at the trans. I found one that was really close and it sealed for a while but eventually started to seep again. Can anyone help me out with that? I'm going to order a standard master kit for the trans as the modern clutches and most gaskets and sealing rings will be the in that kit now that I'm using a modern front pump assembly. But that O ring wouldn't be included. Even if I could find a 62 kit, maybe I can, the front pump seal would be different. But I think about everything else would be the same stuff.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Wayne

Hey! I did this as an edit instead of deleting it. Transtar here in Flint actually has a 62 kit, not only available but on the shelf! That kind of blew my mind. I'm going to see if he can match me up the smaller filter I need for it and then just buy a modern front pump seal from either him or the parts store.

Thanks,

Wayne

Edited by jaded13640 2018-03-05 1:36 PM
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57chizler
Posted 2018-03-06 3:31 PM (#559346 - in reply to #559276)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



Expert

Posts: 2967
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Location: NorCal
I didn't mention the Transtar K22950E-4 ('62-'70 supplement kit) because they've been obsolete for years...you're lucky to find one.

The front pump (converter) seal is the same from '62 until the end of production.
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Shep
Posted 2018-03-06 8:25 PM (#559366 - in reply to #559346)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Posts: 3064
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George)
Belvedere 2 dr hdtop, barely made A/SA, at 3380 lbs, had to keep the tank near full, all steel car no lite weight stuff. Held the NHRA mph record for 3 years at 121.
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jaded13640
Posted 2018-03-07 10:56 AM (#559395 - in reply to #557571)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.


Regular

Posts: 90
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Thanks 57chizler, didn't know that, he said the kit was in his hand...hope he's correct. Also didn't know the front seals were all the same from that era to present.

Shep, yea, I had it kinda easy given all the modern go fast stuff and the elimination of most of the categories, at least at the weekly bracket racing level anyway. That car did almost 150 on a shakedown pass, it would have been well into the 8s at well over 150. The aluminum front drum was causing way too much hassle and maintenance so I pulled it on rebuild time and sure enough lost two tenths...but I didn't need to change the fluid every other weekend and the fluid and filter every other other weekend. I've still got and will put it back in eventually. I'll just need to make an access hole to get at the filter without removing all the safety shielding.

Wayne
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Shep
Posted 2018-03-08 10:54 AM (#559452 - in reply to #559395)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Posts: 3064
200010002525
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George)
Boy, wish I had that back in the day. Amazing to get 2 tenths out of a light weight rotating trans part. Would have gotten torn down, as my class was really tight.
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57chizler
Posted 2018-03-08 12:36 PM (#559455 - in reply to #559452)
Subject: Re: A question about torque converter interchange and "pig" interchange.



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Posts: 2967
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Location: NorCal
Color me skeptical of claims of E.T. improvement due to lightweight parts alone....not the norm.
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