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Is this the correct Bellhousing ?
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OzFury
Posted 2018-03-28 7:51 PM (#560648)
Subject: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



Veteran

Posts: 155
1002525
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
Hi Guy's

I'm about to bolt my motor & trans together & noticed that there are no locating dowels in the block is this normal ?
There are also no holes in the bellhousing for locating dowels this seems odd to me is it ?

Here are a few pic's of the rear of my motor & the bellhousing is this the correct bellhousing for a 1960 318 Poly with CI trans ?
The bellhousing is made of alloy if that helps

Thanks in advance

Cheers Gra



(bell1 (Medium).jpg)



(bell2 (Medium).jpg)



(block (Medium).jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments bell1 (Medium).jpg (141KB - 27 downloads)
Attachments bell2 (Medium).jpg (151KB - 24 downloads)
Attachments block (Medium).jpg (66KB - 17 downloads)
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OzFury
Posted 2018-03-30 1:57 AM (#560722 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



Veteran

Posts: 155
1002525
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
It's together





(20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg)



(20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg (209KB - 21 downloads)
Attachments 20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg (57KB - 19 downloads)
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matte
Posted 2018-03-30 3:17 PM (#560770 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 912
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Location: Sydney, Australia
I think, 57chizler (John) is the resident wiz on these boxes... Not sure if he's been on or just stays logged in. He might see this if having a look around the forum.



Edited by matte 2018-03-30 3:20 PM
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OzFury
Posted 2018-03-30 3:53 PM (#560771 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
Hi Matte,

It will be in the car in about an hour

Cheers Gra
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RICKYMOPAR
Posted 2018-03-31 2:40 PM (#560835 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 172
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Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate
I have never seen a bell housing like this, similar to 59 60 318. Is it possible that it is a slant six truck bell?
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57chizler
Posted 2018-03-31 4:35 PM (#560844 - in reply to #560771)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



Expert

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Location: NorCal
Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans.

The FSM is your friend here.
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OzFury
Posted 2018-03-31 4:37 PM (#560845 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



Veteran

Posts: 155
1002525
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
Hi Ricky
It is the bell housing that was in the car when I got it
it bolts up but no locating dowels. My car has had an engine swap at sometime & I can see
the stain were the old motor lined up the current motor is a later model with early crank.

A slant 6 bell housing would have the starter location up higher.
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59 in Calif
Posted 2018-04-01 12:51 AM (#560867 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?


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Location: Hayward, Calif
As I remember back in the late 50's , predominately in the Ply line they used that flat adapter plate. Seems to me it could be used with either the small Ply V8's or the flat 6's. I remember using that flat adapter plate, but don't remember anymore ( that was 50 some yrs ago ) just what I was doing or why I used it. There should be an alignment dowel from the plate to the block and an alignment dowel from the plate to the trans bell housing. As 57chizler said that alignment is critical. Seems to me .002 - .003 runout is acceptical. It's a PITA doing it, but necessary. Jerry
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jboymechanic
Posted 2018-04-01 1:07 AM (#560868 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Location: Muskego, WI
The locating dowels on my 1960 Plymouth 318 bell housing & block are just below and inbound from the bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock. Otherwise, the bell looks right (single piece bell & starter plate, 3 bolt starter and so on).
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-01 2:19 AM (#560872 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
Hi Guy's

I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model
poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor
which would of had dowels & lined up.

Probably the reason why when I got it it wasn't working...It's now my job to sort it out
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-01 2:25 AM (#560873 - in reply to #560844)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
57chizler - 2018-04-01 8:35 AM

Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans.

The FSM is your friend here.


Yes I agree John I have had an alignment problem with another car years ago it caused the front bearing to fail &
cracked the weld on the pump drive on the converter. The biggest problem here in Oz nobody seems to know anything about
aligning the trans & motor.

This is my biggest concern I don't want to have to do it again.

Thanks Graham
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RICKYMOPAR
Posted 2018-04-01 3:14 PM (#560891 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



Veteran

Posts: 172
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Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate
That's the answer, early A engines and late A engines have different dowel pin locations. From your post. I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model
poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor
which would of had dowels & lined up
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-01 4:39 PM (#560896 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA

Yeah some one over there in the US did the swap back in the 80's from what I was told probably the reason it was off the road
for 25 years. My problem is the motor should have an all alloy trans unless I can find a early poly block & swap it I'm stuck with what I've got.
I will start my search for a bell housing to suit if they exist.
I am going to more than likely just see what happens once it is ready to fire up as poly's are not very common here in Oz.

If all else fails I will have to go either BB or late model LA motor & trans not keen on that I wanted to keep it basically standard
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RICKYMOPAR
Posted 2018-04-01 5:02 PM (#560898 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 172
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Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate
Here is an other possible problem/problems. How many bolt holes are in your crankshaft flange, and are they threaded? Don't give up. I think there might be a solution.

Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 5:10 PM
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ttotired
Posted 2018-04-01 6:28 PM (#560904 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again

I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died

Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it

Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed

Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks

All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it

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RICKYMOPAR
Posted 2018-04-01 9:36 PM (#560914 - in reply to #560648)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 172
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Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate
I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November.


Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 9:53 PM
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-02 12:02 AM (#560923 - in reply to #560898)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
8 holes not threaded
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-02 12:09 AM (#560924 - in reply to #560914)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
RICKYMOPAR - 2018-04-02 1:36 PM

I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November.


this is basically what I have done except I haven't drill any dowel holes as I don't know if it is in line. Once I fire it up & all is either working ok I'll drill some locating holes or if it fails......lets not talk about that.
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OzFury
Posted 2018-04-02 12:20 AM (#560925 - in reply to #560904)
Subject: Re: Is this the correct Bellhousing ?



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Posts: 155
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Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA
ttotired - 2018-04-02 10:28 AM

It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again

I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died

Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it

Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed

Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks

All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it



yes the motor ran Mick but I never seen it drive only told buy the seller he drove it. I don't know how after pulling it out & finding
the pump drive sleeve not engaged (see previous posts in this thread for pic's) unless they towed it to get the rear pump working.

either way it's my job to get it back on the road cruising.

If you want to spend countless amounts of $$$ & hours working on a car go drag racing...this is easier & I do have my drag car
driveline sitting here a 500+HP stroked 360 will get the old girl haulin one way or another I will be hitting the streets soon with
The Bitch



Edited by OzFury 2018-04-02 12:22 AM
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