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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
  
Location: Sydney, Australia | Hey guys, I know the process with checking fluid level- Hot, idle, push all buttons with a pause in between then check..
Can someone tell me where the level should be when completely cold? And also at hot? Just using as a guide.... The manual says should be at L when cold.. Also I don't have a L mark just a "Add A quart".
I had a non chrysler mechanic touch the box and for some reason he said he added fluid (LONG STORY and didn't understand the throttle lever adjustment)
Anyway Hot or Cold the reading is way way over. So I just wanted an idea if it should be under or higher when cold? I put a red line where the fluid stops on the dipstick when cold.
Edited by matte 2018-04-01 7:46 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3575
 
Location: Netherlands | It's simple... fluids expand when warmed up.
The oil level will read slightly higher with a warm fluid.
Never overfill above the FULL mark, with engine running, neither with hot oil and certainly not with cold oil.
Your redline would be the level with the engine off. A Chrysler transmission should never be checked with engine off.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Too high and to low fluid level may cause cavitation (Cold boiling) resulting finally in loss of pressure and clutch failure.
Too low level gives the risk of air sucked in the strainer.
Too high level gives the risk of the moving planetary geras whipping up a foam.
Both of this conditions are really bad for the transmission.
You need to suck out the excessive fluid as soon as possible and recheck until you have the correct fluid level.
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Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | FSM says check fluid when hot, in neutral at idle.
Been doing that in my cars for decades, no issues. |
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Expert
Posts: 3776
Location: NorCal | Disregard all references to cold level, only hot level is correct. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | finsruskw - 2018-04-02 8:00 AM
FSM says check fluid when hot, in neutral at idle.
Been doing that in my cars for decades, no issues.
Yeah as I said in my post on knowing the correct procedure, I was asking what other peoples looked like at cold. 57-58 Plymouth FSM actually says it's preferable to do when cold, refer footnote.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Guys the ONLY reason I'm asking about cold level is if you see how high my level is at cold, it's obvious that it's too high. I am going to suck fluid out as there is no point in starting, getting it hot when I already know it;s too high. I just wanted an indication on how much below the line I should take out. The key word is "indication". I'm not going to use that indication as a true level and be done.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | BigBlockMopar - 2018-04-02 5:03 AM
It's simple... fluids expand when warmed up.
The oil level will read slightly higher with a warm fluid.
Never overfill above the FULL mark, with engine running, neither with hot oil and certainly not with cold oil.
Your redline would be the level with the engine off. A Chrysler transmission should never be checked with engine off.
When I did it at hot which was a few hours before that photo of a cold reading, the level was only about 10-20mm difference...
So which ever way I look at it it is still too much fluid? Because that's a cold reading so a hot reading would only be higher or the converter holds most of that?
Edited by matte 2018-04-02 4:37 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | wizard - 2018-04-02 5:16 AM
Too high and to low fluid level may cause cavitation (Cold boiling) resulting finally in loss of pressure and clutch failure.
Too low level gives the risk of air sucked in the strainer.
Too high level gives the risk of the moving planetary geras whipping up a foam.
Both of this conditions are really bad for the transmission.
You need to suck out the excessive fluid as soon as possible and recheck until you have the correct fluid level.
Going to suck the fluid but was just wanting a starting point to the general area where it would sit when cold... It just didn't seem to move much from my hot AND cold reading so it confused me. (Did it the correct way first)
Edited by matte 2018-04-02 4:19 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | 57chizler - 2018-04-02 3:45 PM
Disregard all references to cold level, only hot level is correct.
I just need a starting point when cold.. It just looks way too much in there even when cold and I just want to get some out before running it up to op temp.
Edited by matte 2018-04-02 5:40 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 174
Location: Camptown PA | take the fluid out so the level is just above the "add a quart mark" then start and check |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | Phatton - 2018-04-02 7:08 PM
take the fluid out so the level is just above the "add a quart mark" then start and check
Brilliant, thank you Pete, exactly what I was chasing..
Thanks to the others as well. All info is great to add to the brain database.
Edited by matte 2018-04-02 8:43 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3776
Location: NorCal | FWIW, the one factor often ignored when dealing with fluid level is "converter drainback".
When in operation with the engine running, the converter is pressurized and full of fluid, as soon as the engine is shut off and the transmission pump quits, the fluid starts to drain from the converter and the level in the sump rises. That's why it's crucial that level readings be taken only with the engine idling in Neutral. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | 57chizler - 2018-04-03 2:37 PM
FWIW, the one factor often ignored when dealing with fluid level is "converter drainback".
When in operation with the engine running, the converter is pressurized and full of fluid, as soon as the engine is shut off and the transmission pump quits, the fluid starts to drain from the converter and the level in the sump rises. That's why it's crucial that level readings be taken only with the engine idling in Neutral.
Yeah converter drain back.. That's why I was trying to get an idea if my reading was a normal cold reading or was it still way over even including converter drain back. I asked about converter drainback in an earlier post because I wasn't sure.
I pulled about 800 mL out first then ran it up to op temp and done the gear sequence before getting a reading.. Man these transmissions are a learning curve but interesting..
LOL to be honest I was just being a princess..
My engine is a hot engine, sits on 190-210 happily
Aust summers are hot and humid and even though summer has just left the days are still warmish.. 91-95 F with high humidity
The weather, small old school garage and very hot engine just makes it unbearable... (Australian heat = sweat just blinking eyes)
Was just trying to get the obvious overfill out before starting the actual checking. I must go iron my dress for the ball now.
Edited by matte 2018-04-03 4:13 PM
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62 727 Fluid Level..
