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'60 Chrysler - steering column removal
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-10 10:19 PM (#561383)
Subject: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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1960 Chrysler

I need to replace the rubber insulator at the bottom of the steering shaft where it goes into the steering box. Ive removed the steering wheel, shaft circliip, column clamps, floor plate, and the column clamp outside the firewall. I still can't pull the column up over the shaft to access the pin that holds the shaft into the box. Any hints?



(clamp.jpg)



(Column.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2018-04-11 12:41 AM (#561387 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: steering column removal



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Ian, you must remove the Seeger ring and the washer on the steering shaft. Then you can pull out the steering column (the steering shaft remains in Place). The steering shaft is fixated at the steering gear with most commonly a cotter pin (fsm shows a tubular pin). I recommend to use a cotter pin, since it's possible to damage the steering gear when a tubular pin is hammered in.

The steering column is sticking very much to to steering column rubber insulator - therefore, after removing the Seeger ring and washer, put the steering wheel nut back, finger tight. This way you won't loose any teeths when you finally pull the colum loose from the rubber.

Try wiggling a Little sideways while you pull.......
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-11 11:37 AM (#561401 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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HI Sven,
If you look closely at the photo above you can see that the circlip/seeger ring has been moved up and the washer is loose, but nothing will budge. Do you have any tips on how to loosen it? I can't budge it.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-04-11 2:34 PM (#561406 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Most likely the clamp at the base of the column has tightened down the column tight to the rubber and gear box. Use a screwdriver and twist it in the gap to loosen it up. Once you are sure it is loose there, give it another try. You can also try using a small pry bar and pry the column upward a bit.
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b5rt
Posted 2018-04-11 8:32 PM (#561427 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Keep track of and good notes of all the washers and lock rings and the order you take them off.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-11 11:02 PM (#561436 - in reply to #561427)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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SO we have a college student staying with us, the son of a good friend of ours who is here for the college year (nearly done now). His arms are about the size of my thighs. I had him sit on the drivers seat and asked him to give a tug on the column jacket. One good tug, and thunk, up it came. It was just tight with the rubber seal at the bottom. SO the column jacket is off and getting refinished right now. The Car is on jackstands so I can rotate the steering shaft to the correct angle to drive out the roll pin at the bottom where the shaft seats into the steering box. A friend of mine who's an old school Mopar mechanic says he has the correct long reach punch to drive the pin out. I'll keep the thread updated. The plan is to pull the shaft, inspect it especially around the horn contact area and install a new rubber insulator and copper ground strip at the bottom.
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-12 12:18 AM (#561438 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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So, your car have a roll pin Ian. Take care when driving it out and use a good heay hammer or sledge as an anvil for to protect the ingoing steering gear shaft from lateral forces. You can replace the roll pin with a good cotter pin - the only function is to prevent the steering shaft/steering wheel from being pulled out from the seat in the coupler.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 12:18 PM (#561454 - in reply to #561438)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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wizard - 2018-04-11 9:18 PM

So, your car have a roll pin Ian. Take care when driving it out and use a good heay hammer or sledge as an anvil for to protect the ingoing steering gear shaft from lateral forces. You can replace the roll pin with a good cotter pin - the only function is to prevent the steering shaft/steering wheel from being pulled out from the seat in the coupler.


A friend is coming over tonight with the correct old CHRYSLER tool made specifically for the roll pin removal on the steering shaft. He's an old school Mopar mechanic.


Edited by imopar380 2018-04-12 12:21 PM
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-12 2:58 PM (#561477 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Take pictures Ian and share with us - very interesting!!!!
I removed the steering column the way he did, I loose with pure stubborness and ripped up a 1" long triangular wound on my right wrist when the skin got caught by the right stud.
When I see the scar, I remember this work in detail
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 3:52 PM (#561481 - in reply to #561477)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Will update with photos. I cleaned up and painted the column jacket last night, nice new black paint.
More photos after tonight. These photos are from last night.




(a1.jpg)



(a2.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2018-04-12 4:17 PM (#561485 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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I see that you have the early parking brake type with "Press Down-function" - I had that in my car as well, but this Winter I changed it to the later "Pull Out - Press Down" type.

This due to that it's really easy to release the parking brake by accident, what I think was the reason they changed to the "new" parking brake.

For your information, it's a really easy work to change if you should want the "new" system.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 8:38 PM (#561499 - in reply to #561485)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Freshly painted column jacket !



(columnjacket.JPG)



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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 10:41 PM (#561508 - in reply to #561499)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Friend Gerry came over tonight with his punch set that has extensions. Drove out the roll pin, then pulled out the shaft. Took a good look at it. The rubber insulator is not completely shot, but the copper horn ground is broken, so I have to make a new one up. Instructions can be found on a 300 club tech page http://chrysler300club.com/how/62horns/1a.html and also a videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj2R5JiF78k&feature=youtu.be

I cleaned up the shaft and the brass ring that the horn roller is connected to, and painted up the column boot clamp as well. Hope to have this back together on Saturday. The 60-62 Chrysler horn wire runs up through the hollow center of the shaft. Power comes from the horn relay to the roller that mounts on the lower steering column jacket, and the roller rolls around the brass ring on the shaft. The wire goes from the brass ring up inside the shaft to the horn actuator mounted in the steering wheel hub. The ground for all of this is the small copper piece that is mounted in the end of the rubber insulator at the spade end going into the steering box.

In the bottom photo, the old rubber insulator is on the far left, the new one is next to it on the right. Underneath the rubber pieces you can see the 2 pieces of the broken copper ground strip that sits around the end of the insulator. The two white plastic pieces are inserts, possibly to support the soft rubber??...


Edited by imopar380 2018-04-12 11:01 PM




(col1.JPG)



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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 11:17 PM (#561511 - in reply to #561508)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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A closeup of the brass ring around the shaft. The power from the relay comes to this brass ring from the part mounted to the steering column that also cancels the turn signals.



(col4.JPG)



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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-12 11:22 PM (#561512 - in reply to #561511)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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This is the part (turn signal cancelling switch and horn contact and bracket assembly) which supplies power to the horn through the column into the steering shaft. This part also has the turn signal cancelling switch. The turn signal on 60-62 Chryslers is an electromagnetic switch that is mounted under the transmission buttons. When you move the lever left or right it is held in place by the electromagnet. When the steering wheel returns to center, the switch mounted on the column has a small finger that disconnects the power to the electromagnet, letting the signal lever return to the center position.

Edited by imopar380 2018-04-12 11:24 PM




(switch.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-04-13 1:16 AM (#561518 - in reply to #561512)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Thanks for detailing that out. I would have been scratching my head for quite a while to figure it out. But I notice that is only for Windsors and Saratogas. What do the New Yorkers and 300's do?

Edited by Powerflite 2018-04-13 1:19 AM
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-13 2:31 AM (#561521 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Same thing really - the cancel switch was used on all models, Imperial and Chrysler.

The cancel switch above puzzles me somewhat since the connector differs from the "normal" ones.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-04-13 9:40 AM (#561535 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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So what is different about the part that makes it Saratoga & Windsor only?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-NOS-1960-61-Windsor-Saratoga-Turn-Sig...
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-04-13 9:57 AM (#561537 - in reply to #561535)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal


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My guess is that it is the electrical connector. Only CDN cars used those rubber connectors. Certainly won't plug to a Nyer or 300 harness.

Greg
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-13 11:36 AM (#561543 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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That makes sense Greg, but the US made Windsors and Saratogas use the very same "normal" connector as the NY and 300.

So, my guess is that the NY and 300 was not produced in Canada - they where imported, so they had the US-connectors while the Canadian built Windsors and Saratogas had the Canadian type of connectors..
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-13 2:59 PM (#561549 - in reply to #561543)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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wizard - 2018-04-13 8:36 AM

That makes sense Greg, but the US made Windsors and Saratogas use the very same "normal" connector as the NY and 300.

So, my guess is that the NY and 300 was not produced in Canada - they where imported, so they had the US-connectors while the Canadian built Windsors and Saratogas had the Canadian type of connectors..


You're right Sven, I parted out a Canadian 1960 Windsor about 25 years ago and it had these connectors. I used the turn signal cancel switch from it on my ex-1962 300 and had to cut the connectors off of the wires, which was the only difference. And this box is a Chryco Box which is the Canadian parts division.

Edited by imopar380 2018-04-13 3:04 PM
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-14 9:42 PM (#561638 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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I haven't put the column back together yet. Since it's still out, today I thought I would pull out the turn signal switch up under the trans buttons. The whole time I've owned the car, when you push the signal lever to the right, it stays there and won't flip back to center. The cancelling switch on the column works fine so that wasn't the problem. The lever also would not return to center even with the battery dis-connected. (Remember this switch is electromagnetic). I've been wondering for years what's wrong with it so today I pulled it out. It was an incredibly snug fit between the transmission control and the headlight switch, literally, it was difficult to pull out after removing the mounting screws. When I finally got it pulled it out, and let it hang down under the dash while trying to unplug the harness, I just thought I might see if it was still sticking in the right hand position. Well, surprise, NOT. It moved freely back all by itself. What's going on, I wondered. Well after contorting myself under the dash for several hours putting the switch in and pulling it back out, ( NOT easy) it turns out that when you moved the switch arm to the right hand position, the arm was literally rubbing on the headlight switch directly below it, and simply getting stuck by friction. After playing around with the headlight switch for a while, loosening it, turning the mount, I was able to keep it away from the turn signal arm and now the arm is now free in both directions. Of course I won't know for sure until I get everything back together and hook up the power. Hopefully tomorrow. This evening I'm making up a new copper horn ground for the bottom of the steering shaft.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-14 11:16 PM (#561646 - in reply to #561638)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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OK, I just made up a new copper ground strip for the spade end that goes into the steering box.



(groundstrap.JPG)



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-15 9:56 AM (#561658 - in reply to #561638)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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imopar380 - 2018-04-14 3:42 AM I haven't put the column back together yet. Since it's still out, today I thought I would pull out the turn signal switch up under the trans buttons. The whole time I've owned the car, when you push the signal lever to the right, it stays there and won't flip back to center. The cancelling switch on the column works fine so that wasn't the problem. The lever also would not return to center even with the battery dis-connected. (Remember this switch is electromagnetic). I've been wondering for years what's wrong with it so today I pulled it out. It was an incredibly snug fit between the transmission control and the headlight switch, literally, it was difficult to pull out after removing the mounting screws. When I finally got it pulled it out, and let it hang down under the dash while trying to unplug the harness, I just thought I might see if it was still sticking in the right hand position. Well, surprise, NOT. It moved freely back all by itself. What's going on, I wondered. Well after contorting myself under the dash for several hours putting the switch in and pulling it back out, ( NOT easy) it turns out that when you moved the switch arm to the right hand position, the arm was literally rubbing on the headlight switch directly below it, and simply getting stuck by friction. After playing around with the headlight switch for a while, loosening it, turning the mount, I was able to keep it away from the turn signal arm and now the arm is now free in both directions. Of course I won't know for sure until I get everything back together and hook up the power. Hopefully tomorrow. This evening I'm making up a new copper horn ground for the bottom of the steering shaft.

Ian, I had the same issue at the directional signal switch at my Letter, but onto both sides. Cleaning and a lot of WD40 helped to free the lever. Now it springs back to the neutral position from both sides with ease. At the same time I partially disassembled the switch/holder combo to resolder broken wire connections (according to the description at the technical section of the Chrysler 300 Club International page). Finally I checked it and it seems to work, even the holding magnet.

Happy Restoringh!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-04-15 9:57 AM
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1960fury
Posted 2018-04-15 11:00 AM (#561666 - in reply to #561646)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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imopar380 - 2018-04-14 11:16 PM

OK, I just made up a new copper ground strip for the spade end that goes into the steering box.


I'm not a big fan of the soft steering coupler and the copper ground strip. i replaced the rubber insulator with nylon and replaced the roll pin with a long machine screw and lock nut that i used to attach a short cable with the other end attached to the steering shaft with a hose clamp.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-15 2:23 PM (#561672 - in reply to #561666)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Fighting with this all morning, not able to get the copper strip to seat inside the coupler when I try to put the shaft back into the coupler. Sid can you elaborate on your method?
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-15 8:46 PM (#561692 - in reply to #561672)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Sid, thanks for the tip. SInce I already had a new rubber insulator, I used it. I bought a stainless steel machine screw and a lock nut, and basically used your idea, ran a wire from the bolt back to the shaft, wire to shaft held with a hose clamp. There is lots of room for the column jacket to clear the locknut and screw head and hose clamp.

Edited by imopar380 2018-04-15 9:14 PM




(Shaft&Groundwire.JPG)



(Shaft@front.JPG)



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wizard
Posted 2018-04-16 1:33 AM (#561700 - in reply to #561638)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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imopar380 - 2018-04-15 3:42 AM

I haven't put the column back together yet. Since it's still out, today I thought I would pull out the turn signal switch up under the trans buttons. The whole time I've owned the car, when you push the signal lever to the right, it stays there and won't flip back to center. The cancelling switch on the column works fine so that wasn't the problem. The lever also would not return to center even with the battery dis-connected. (Remember this switch is electromagnetic). I've been wondering for years what's wrong with it so today I pulled it out. It was an incredibly snug fit between the transmission control and the headlight switch, literally, it was difficult to pull out after removing the mounting screws. When I finally got it pulled it out, and let it hang down under the dash while trying to unplug the harness, I just thought I might see if it was still sticking in the right hand position. Well, surprise, NOT. It moved freely back all by itself. What's going on, I wondered. Well after contorting myself under the dash for several hours putting the switch in and pulling it back out, ( NOT easy) it turns out that when you moved the switch arm to the right hand position, the arm was literally rubbing on the headlight switch directly below it, and simply getting stuck by friction. After playing around with the headlight switch for a while, loosening it, turning the mount, I was able to keep it away from the turn signal arm and now the arm is now free in both directions.


Ian, thanks for posting this tip! As to confirm you that you're on the right track, yesterday I called a friend who had the very same problem as you.
I informed him that it would be possible to move the headlight switch a tiny bit, and - presto - that solved his problem!
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-16 11:45 AM (#561722 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Next problem is getting the column jacket with its rubber seal back onto the steering box. I slathered it in dish soap and tried to slide it over. It bunched up inside the jacket. Ran out of time last night. Next try is to slide the rubber piece by itself over the coupler assembly, then try and slide the column jacket over the rubber, with lots of dish soap on both pieces. I notice the column jacket at the bottom end has a slot in it, which means it can be spread apart somewhat. Any tips on how to spread it evenly? The factory probably had some tapered tool to slide in there to spread it.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-16 11:46 AM (#561723 - in reply to #561700)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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wizard - 2018-04-15 10:33 PM

imopar380 - 2018-04-15 3:42 AM

I haven't put the column back together yet. Since it's still out, today I thought I would pull out the turn signal switch up under the trans buttons. The whole time I've owned the car, when you push the signal lever to the right, it stays there and won't flip back to center. The cancelling switch on the column works fine so that wasn't the problem. The lever also would not return to center even with the battery dis-connected. (Remember this switch is electromagnetic). I've been wondering for years what's wrong with it so today I pulled it out. It was an incredibly snug fit between the transmission control and the headlight switch, literally, it was difficult to pull out after removing the mounting screws. When I finally got it pulled it out, and let it hang down under the dash while trying to unplug the harness, I just thought I might see if it was still sticking in the right hand position. Well, surprise, NOT. It moved freely back all by itself. What's going on, I wondered. Well after contorting myself under the dash for several hours putting the switch in and pulling it back out, ( NOT easy) it turns out that when you moved the switch arm to the right hand position, the arm was literally rubbing on the headlight switch directly below it, and simply getting stuck by friction. After playing around with the headlight switch for a while, loosening it, turning the mount, I was able to keep it away from the turn signal arm and now the arm is now free in both directions.


Ian, thanks for posting this tip! As to confirm you that you're on the right track, yesterday I called a friend who had the very same problem as you.
I informed him that it would be possible to move the headlight switch a tiny bit, and - presto - that solved his problem!



The sticking signal switch has had me mystified for 10 years until this weekend!

Edited by imopar380 2018-04-16 12:29 PM
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-16 12:01 PM (#561725 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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I used Klöver Vaseline for to mount the column jacket rubber seal, very nice and smooth and it does not affect rubber.




(untitled.png)



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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-20 10:51 PM (#562001 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Well the column is back in, everything is back together. The horn works better than it ever has with the new ground, and there is no more shake in the steering shaft since the rubber insulator at the bottom was replaced. My turn signals are still awry.... the turn signal arm inside had been rubbing on the headlight switch below it, and sticking over to the right hand side. Now that I freed it up it won't hold when over to the right, I guess the electromagnet on the right side isn't holding, and it still cancels prematurely when making a left turn. (It cancels as soon as the steering shaft hits the cancel finger instead of waiting until the wheel comes back the other way). The cancelling switch is working fine though. I knew I should have changed the main switch out with the spare while I was under there......yeah but I was unable to grab hold of the harness to unplug it easily. Such contortions under the dash!! I can live with it for the time being. My main complaints were the loose steering shaft and the horn.
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-21 10:38 AM (#562023 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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Ian, there's only one electromagnet in the turn signal switch - it work's like, kind of a wise.
I would like that you check your cancel switch first of all - the plastic arm has a tendency to go soft over the years, perhaps due to the grease used to lube it.

The arm might seem to work, but it can be broken off partly.

Check the condition of the arm first of all - in case that it's worn or broken, I have a couple of them printed out, so I can send you one in an ordinary letter that perhaps will arrive in less then 48 Days

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=64497&...
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imopar380
Posted 2018-04-21 11:43 PM (#562047 - in reply to #562023)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



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wizard - 2018-04-21 7:38 AM

Ian, there's only one electromagnet in the turn signal switch - it work's like, kind of a wise.
I would like that you check your cancel switch first of all - the plastic arm has a tendency to go soft over the years, perhaps due to the grease used to lube it.

The arm might seem to work, but it can be broken off partly.

Check the condition of the arm first of all - in case that it's worn or broken, I have a couple of them printed out, so I can send you one in an ordinary letter that perhaps will arrive in less then 48 Days

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=64497&...


The cancel switch, including the plastic arm is in perfect condition. It's an NOS unit I bought back in 2009. It springs back perfect to the centre each time.
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wizard
Posted 2018-04-22 2:26 AM (#562052 - in reply to #561383)
Subject: Re: '60 Chrysler - steering column removal



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Ok Ian, then I don't have any bullets left on this one - strange one.
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