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Parking brake cable to rear e-brake "conversion" Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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pistolgrip |
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Veteran Posts: 118 Location: Maryland | Hello all, Quick question, I'm looking at doing a motor/trans/rear diff swap on my '61 Plymouth wagon, and of course, with the swap I plan on doing, the rear parking brake off the tailshaft of the trans will be gone.... Is there a thread or write up on what folks have done to either use the same cable going to the tail-shaft brake to the rear e-brake on the newer diffs ... say like later E body diff? What's needed? does anyone make cables specifically for this conversion? Is there another thread out here on this? (Searched, but really couldn't find anything).... Thanks everyone. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | eh that's a tricky one, you can swap the rear axle.. or some disc kits have a e brake included. There are even "electronic" e brake mechanisms. I have never heard anyone making anything specific for these cars that's for sure. these are all over the place. SBC and I think they were stock on fords? They are cheap normally but wilwood sells expensive versions. (s-l1000.jpg) Attachments ---------------- s-l1000.jpg (50KB - 167 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | It's not really that hard to do. Just take your original E-brake cable and make a mount for it to your floor. That will secure the end of it so that it can apply force to an intermediate cable. Then make a mount to hold your E-brake cables from the newer axle you've installed. You can re-purpose an original mount from a newer '60's or '70's car to make it easier. Then get a random long cable and cut it to the proper length to create your intermediate link between the two cables. You can adjust the length by purchasing a replaceable cable stop, or you could just weld a blob to the end of it where you want it. Just be sure to put your ground connection for welding close to the weld area so it doesn't heat up the entire cable. Here are some pictures of how I did it in my '56 Plymouth. (FrontCableConnection.jpg) (CableRearConnection.jpg) Attachments ---------------- FrontCableConnection.jpg (28KB - 157 downloads) CableRearConnection.jpg (34KB - 159 downloads) | ||
pistolgrip |
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Veteran Posts: 118 Location: Maryland | Powerflie...... Excellent bud! Thanks..... So if you just pull the cable out of the tail shaft brake, it will have that "ball" on the end of it like you have there in the pic, or is that another cable altogether? I have those "tabs" already off of a doner car, hoping that would be the way it was setup..... Edited by pistolgrip 2018-05-11 5:19 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | Yes, that first cable you see with a long spring on it that is attached to the floor bracket is the original E-brake cable that was removed from the transmission. It has that threaded connection that mounts to the bracket on the housing so you just use 2 nuts to cinch it to your bracket. The "C" cable connector that connects the ball ends of each cable is a stock unit from another newer car. One thing I didn't mention is that the intermediate cable needs that threaded rod connection on the end to give you the adjustment. I used an '89 Dodge truck E-brake cable for it because it was long and really cheap - $10 on ebay. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Nathan always seems to have good ideas. Another option is a pinion mounted disc parking brake, they are available for Mopar 8 3/4 rear ends. Still have to adapt the cable though. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3768 Location: NorCal | Both my '56 Plymouth and '57 Dodge have later rear ends with parking brake hookups like Nathan's but the parking brake doesn't hold as firmly as I'd like. The problem is the minimal leverage provided by the hand brake pulling directly on the rear cables; there is some leverage provided by the pivot under the dash but it is less than that provided in cars that originally had rear parking brakes. On my '57 I added a lever with a 1.5-1 ratio to increase the pulling force on the rear cables. That helped a lot. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Attaching link to pinion mounted disc parking brake for reference. I actually bought one of these for my 1960 Plymouth, it now has a 4 speed manual and 4 wheel disc brakes. http://www.tsmmfg.com/Drive_Shaft_PB/pinionmountedpar.html | ||
pistolgrip |
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Veteran Posts: 118 Location: Maryland | You all are awesome..... thanks for the info! | ||
pistolgrip |
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Veteran Posts: 118 Location: Maryland | Chizler, so your cars have a handle that you need to pull? My '61 has the "foot pedal". Maybe that would give you a little more leverage? Between the new trans with the park "paw" and this setup.... hopefully, I'll be okay! | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | I'm sure you'll be fine. The foot lever is a lot easier to apply force to. And my hand lever is fine for me too. Only my wife would really have issues with it. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | pistolgrip, Any more info or pictures of your wagon? Is it a driver? What drivetrain is in it now? What engine and trans do you hope to go to? There may be someone that has already done what you're trying to do, so you can learn from their experience. | ||
59 in Calif |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1102 Location: Hayward, Calif | I did pretty much same as Powerflite on a 59 Dodge. I got a longer cable out of an early 90's Dodge PU at a junk yard. Jerry | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | In powerflight's first photo I have a similar set up but found the bracket bends easily so keep this in mind. That cheap Chinese steel may need a bit of reinforcing. If you go to a pick a part you may be able to find a stock set up that will work. Stock parts are much stronger than the brackets you get in an aftermarket kit. | ||
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