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Regular
Posts: 93
Location: Upper Darby, PA | I see several threads that mention speed bleeders - but, I can't find any sites that specify them for FL cars. I looked at Dorman, Russell and SpeedBleeder.com, but none of them seem to have the part. I'm assuming folks that have used them have used something from a different make and model - or, have found them on a different site than the ones I mentioned. I have a '59 Sport Fury - can folks recommend specific vendor part numbers? I'd like to replace all around, so that's a total of six (assuming the front are the same as the back).
adTHANKSvance,
Dan
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
   
Location: So. Cal | Just measure the thread of your current bleeders, then buy the speed bleeders according to the thread size. I don't know the thread size off hand, but it can be easily measured. |
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Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | I bought mine at autozone and it was the smaller size they have 2 sizes and they work great. Jerry P.S. I have a 1958 Chrysler |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | What's the purpose? You can buy a one way brake bleeder valves for a few bucks. No need the carry check valves around all the time. You have to stick a hose to the valve anyway. So nothing is gained by changing to "speed bleederes". An "invention" nobody needed. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Car-Clutch-Brake-Bleeder-Hose-On...
Kit/401402790510?epid=2236920005&hash=item5d7578826e:g:NDIAAOSwHYpaC64F
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal | Whenever you open a bleeder valve, not only is the fluid passage open to the air but the threads are too. Using the inline bleeder allows air to be sucked in around the threads when the pedal is on the upstroke.
The speed bleeders have a sealant on the threads that prevents sucking air on the upstroke, so the bleeding operation is more positive. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | I don't think any air is sucked in if you open is a quarter turn or less and even if that is the case, applying sealer or tape would be the better and simpler solution. And the question is, how many times bleeding will the "speed bleeder" sealant last? And btw, I have seen regular bleeder screws with sealant, so no need for "speed bleeders" in any case.
"Speed bleeder" the name gives a hint for its usefullness, as it makes brake bleeding not a micro second faster.
Edited by 1960fury 2018-05-27 5:22 PM
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Regular
Posts: 93
Location: Upper Darby, PA | Hmmm... And if air could get in, wouldn’t fluid be able to get out? Granted, there’s little resistance to an open tube, but still - wouldn’t it weep just a little under pressure? I’ve never seen it. Makes me think an in-line bleeder with a check valve is a reasonable idea. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | Fluid is thicker but if you put a transarent plastic hose over the bleeder nozzle it isn't a very tight connection either, yet no air is drawn in. I personally do not believe any air is drawn in thru the threaded connection, especially considering the fact the thread is partially wet. Adhesion in close tolerances is quite strong.
Just get a $3 inline bleeder tool. It works for me for ages and it seems I'm the only one with disc brakes not complaining about a spongy or low pedal and I'm running Discs on all four corners, with 4 cylinders on EACH wheel.
Edited by 1960fury 2018-05-27 6:15 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal | Many folks (myself included) have discovered that air can pass through the threads when attempting to bleed the system using a Mighty-Vac; air bubbles will often appear in the clear bleeder hose after a gazillion pumps of the Mighty-Vac. |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | I've had it happen.
I usually slap a dab of grease around the bleeder to prevent that.
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Speed bleeders
