The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Rust converter
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> General Technical Discussion and TroubleshootingMessage format
 
1960fury
Posted 2018-06-07 5:43 PM (#564750)
Subject: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5487
5000100100100100252525
Location: northern germany
Never used rust convertor on body panels before, maybe because I still remember the dubious ads in the 70s "converts rust to steel!" but I will have to protect the roof of my 61 somehow, as the restoration will take a long time. I could sand the roof to shiny metal but I would remove lots of good metal in the process too, so I thought, give it a try.
I will sand away all loose rust and degrease it thouroughly. Any other hints, other than removing the trim first? Or shouldn't I use it as a base for paint? What Type of primer should I use over it? Below shows a little area I tested that stuff on.

Edited by 1960fury 2018-06-07 5:50 PM




(61furyroof.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 61furyroof.jpg (97KB - 24 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
59 in Calif
Posted 2018-06-07 6:49 PM (#564757 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1073
10002525
Location: Hayward, Calif
I used Rust Seal on 59 Dodge when I was restoring it. It turns the rust black and kills the oxidation process. I scuffed it lightly and shot the primer over it as it suggested on the side of the bottle. I got it from a local auto paint store. Wasn't too awfully expensive, and it goes a long way. If you can see rust under the edge of the trim, it's probably worse further under the trim. And putting that trim back on is a really big PITA. Jerry
Top of the page Bottom of the page
1960fury
Posted 2018-06-07 7:04 PM (#564759 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5487
5000100100100100252525
Location: northern germany
The trim of the 60/61 Plymouth coupe roof is a piece of cake to remove and to install, only the rear window can be a problem but this trim has been already secured with screws by a previous owner

Edited by 1960fury 2018-06-07 7:05 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mikes2nd
Posted 2018-06-07 8:54 PM (#564764 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter


Expert

Posts: 3054
200010002525
Take it down as much as you can. Don't use the nasty rust converter. Look for a rustcoverter primer. Corroseal or others. That should give you a solid seal you can y2k primer over or urethane.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
local2Ed
Posted 2018-06-08 8:29 AM (#564790 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: RE: Rust converter


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 428
10010010010025
https://www.google.com/search?q=rustoleum+rusty+metal+primer+review&...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
jboymechanic
Posted 2018-06-08 12:27 PM (#564808 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert

Posts: 1340
100010010010025
Location: Muskego, WI
A lot of people "wash" off the rust with CLR (Calcium, Lime and Rust) remover. See the video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2PqaFpo-Jw
Top of the page Bottom of the page
51coronet
Posted 2018-06-08 3:48 PM (#564823 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter


Veteran

Posts: 270
1001002525
Many products will work for you. Por15 is another one. You have the right idea though, clean it of oils, get the loose stuff off and coat it with something that is made to bond to the rust and metal. When the time comes a light sand then primer. Remember some are sensitive to UV from sunlight so keep that in mind (no long term outdoor storage). I think you are fine with any reputable product. I personally use por15 for rusty metal, it spreads well and bonds well. Don't get it on your skin or you will wear it for 3-4 days or more.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2018-06-08 4:29 PM (#564828 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert

Posts: 4739
2000200050010010025
Location: So. California
But Por15 would be a poor choice for an exterior body panel that gets professional paint, correct? Grind all rust down with a paper disc. Then use a wire brush on a grinder to clean off anything left in the divots. I use a clear spray rust converter. Don't use it in direct, hot sunlight so that it doesn't get baked too quickly. You want to give it time to react. If you don't see the rust turn black, it didn't do it's job. Lock-tite makes a good product and many others work well too. Then use a good epoxy primer over the top of that to seal it off. If you have any SMALL divots left from the rust, you can fill with bondo on top of the epoxy primer. Sand down smooth, and re-cover with the epoxy primer. Once that is dry, use a primer filler. Wet sand that till it looks glassy smooth. Then paint. That's how I do it.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-06-08 4:31 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
big m
Posted 2018-06-08 6:27 PM (#564842 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7480
50002000100100100100252525
Location: Williams California
Phosphoric acid is basically what all these products contain. It can be bought cheaply in gallon jugs, brand name OSPHO or such. Remove any loose rust and scale with either sandpaper or an aggressive wire cup brush. Depending on the severity of the rust, I've let it set a few days before checking progress, then use a Scotch Brite pad and dissolved baking soda to neutralize it. Wash off residue with a light dish soap, immediately dry, as it will flash rust, then spray your primer. Do not use an etching primer, as the metal has already been etched.

The roof on my '57 Fury was heavy with surface rust, and I painted it in 2003, and nothing has ever come back even though the car is a daily driver, and sets out in the rain at times.

---John
Top of the page Bottom of the page
big m
Posted 2018-06-09 10:40 AM (#564877 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7480
50002000100100100100252525
Location: Williams California
Pics of panels for a customer's car that have been metal etched with Ospho. They will get scrubbed with a baking soda solution to clean and neutralize the acid, then on to primer.



(DSCN6693.JPG)



(DSCN6692.JPG)



(DSCN6694.JPG)



(DSCN6695.JPG)



(DSCN6696.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSCN6693.JPG (123KB - 21 downloads)
Attachments DSCN6692.JPG (123KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments DSCN6694.JPG (124KB - 19 downloads)
Attachments DSCN6695.JPG (123KB - 23 downloads)
Attachments DSCN6696.JPG (123KB - 19 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2018-06-09 11:00 AM (#564879 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert

Posts: 4739
2000200050010010025
Location: So. California
Does that stuff eat through the paint too like a paint stripper?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
51coronet
Posted 2018-06-09 1:41 PM (#564883 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter


Veteran

Posts: 270
1001002525
To answer the question about por15. Any top coat will protect it. It self levels and dries very glossy black, this means brush on application is fine, the lines will self level. A few routes you can take,
best knowledge is prep work is about 90% of the paint job. Most primers are sensitive to UV exposure also as an FYI. Top coats are where the UV protection comes in to play, these always need to be outdoor rated.

Edited by 51coronet 2018-06-09 1:45 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
1960fury
Posted 2018-06-10 8:31 AM (#564933 - in reply to #564750)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5487
5000100100100100252525
Location: northern germany
Thanks a lot for all the tips and suggestions (looks great John)! I guess I will try the rust converter first, mainly because I got it cheap and it is there, still can sand it down later if it fails. Will see how it does w/o primer and paint, at least better than nothing. I think I will use it from the inside too.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2018-06-10 10:01 AM (#564940 - in reply to #564933)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert

Posts: 4739
2000200050010010025
Location: So. California
The main thing I recommend that you do differently from what you did is to use a paper grinding pad on a grinder and remove the majority of the surface rust first. You will need to smooth it out anyway for paint, so it is best to start doing that at this stage. It will remove the majority of the rust underneath, and it is actually easier to do than trying to sand it.



(Paper grinder.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Paper grinder.jpg (110KB - 19 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
big m
Posted 2018-06-10 10:09 AM (#564944 - in reply to #564879)
Subject: Re: Rust converter



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7480
50002000100100100100252525
Location: Williams California
Powerflite - 2018-06-09 8:00 AM

Does that stuff eat through the paint too like a paint stripper?


It will only loosen paint that already has poor adhesion. You have to use paint stripper beforehand.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread



(Delete all cookies set by this site)