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High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?
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jerrybev
Posted 2018-07-09 1:19 PM (#566348)
Subject: High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 429
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hi

I have a 1958 318" in a 56 plymouth, I have installed a new temp gage on dash and a new temp gage sending unit.
However, always the needle on temp gage moves 80-90% across the dial within 15 miles of driving and stays there.
My 76 year old mechanic says it has always been that way on 50's plymouths. Do you folks agree with that statement?
Any suggestions on how to solve this situation?
thank you
Jerry Whitfield
winston salem, NC



(1956 plymouth RF xxxsmall.jpg)



(LR xxxsmall 1956 wagon.jpg)



(1956 plymouth interior xxxsmall.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1956 plymouth RF xxxsmall.jpg (216KB - 25 downloads)
Attachments LR xxxsmall 1956 wagon.jpg (167KB - 30 downloads)
Attachments 1956 plymouth interior xxxsmall.jpg (142KB - 30 downloads)
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billy
Posted 2018-07-13 1:25 PM (#566548 - in reply to #566348)
Subject: Re: High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?



Veteran

Posts: 299
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Location: upstate new york
Jerry,
I've been wondering the same thing. My temp gauge currently does not work, but i have am ifrared temp gun and it runs really hot...Not sure what range temp wise it should be in...
billy
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56RatKing
Posted 2018-07-14 8:40 AM (#566585 - in reply to #566348)
Subject: Re: High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?


Regular

Posts: 65
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I do not agree with that statement that it's common on 50's plymouths. I run a 56 plymouth 303 and my temp gauge reads fine as long as I hve enough coolant in it. Even a lil low and she heats right up. I use a combo of water wetter and antifreeze
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jboymechanic
Posted 2018-07-14 9:44 PM (#566608 - in reply to #566348)
Subject: Re: High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?



Expert

Posts: 1348
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Location: Muskego, WI
Every Chrysler product I have ever owned has always run just a shade under center (cool) between hot and cold. I'm guessing you'd find a large amount of rust and gunk built up in that engine if you were to pull the freeze plugs. Or you have a water pump that the tines have rotted off (depending on the age of some of these components). Or maybe you're running leaner than you realize, but the first step should be to check the resistance/function of your sending unit. I'm sure there is a simple explanation.
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JimK
Posted 2018-07-15 8:54 AM (#566628 - in reply to #566348)
Subject: RE: High reading on temp gage on 56 plymouth?



Veteran

Posts: 255
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Location: Detroit MI area
These cars ran millions of miles with factory spec parts. Lots of anecdotal stories about folks who make changes. Start with basics and factory settings. Get a factory service manual. Diagnosis is a process. Stay with it. Folks replace perfectly good parts chasing hunches and guessing.

Observe the coolant flow in the radiator once warmed up. Working water pump and open thermostat should show coolant moving fairly fast across the opening. Look at the top of the cooling tubes inside the rad through the cap opening. Clear or full of junk? Check fan belt for slipping and proper tension. I doubt there's a fan clutch on that one, but they have their own issues. Next is rad cap. Should match factory pressure setting and have good gasket and spring feel. Then rad hoses. Check for soft, hard bends or collapsed. Next is thermostat. Again, factory spec. Basic open and close can be checked in boiling water on the stove. After that, engine timing. Check timing and distributor advance function. Follow with temp sending unit. I have experience with two "correct" units that were not right. Auto parts stores said they were, but ohm readings were a mismatch to the gauge. They showed a hot condition after warm up. Check with an old time mopar vendor to make sure you have the right one. Gauge can be a factor. I don't know if that dash has a voltage limiter. Service manual will tell. It can affect function of some gauges. Infrared temperature guns can be helpful, but readings on shiny metal, shiny paint and liquid are suspect. Non glossy surfaces are more accurate. It takes experience to know what it is telling you. Block flush can work, but sometimes just moves stuff around and will really fudge up a radiator down the road. As previous writer stated, it might take removing frost plugs to get the big stuff out. Also as previous mentioned, carb settings. If all is OK, then move to more expensive stuff like radiator.

Edited by JimK 2018-07-15 9:36 AM
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