The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and TrimMessage format
 
56D500boy
Posted 2018-08-11 4:55 PM (#568245)
Subject: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert

Posts: 3567
200010005002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
A few weekends ago, I found a 56 Plymouth horn ring that was in decent shape and was very cheap - so I bought it. I know a couple of people with 56 Plymouths or Canadian Plodges that I knew might want it - and I would just give it to them. All I intended to do was to clean it up using AutoSol, the miracle polish, and ship it off.

While cleaning it, I noticed a small crack where the upper ring met the right side of the cross bar. Like a fool I decided to check how strong the crack connection was. Stupid idea. As I tested it, the ring broke away from the cross-bar. (IF I knew then what I know now, I would have tried to fix the ring with out testing - because it would have been much easier to fix if it wasn't fully broken).

Alas, I was now facing an issue - give up and throw the horn ring away or try to fix it.

I consulted Mr. Google on "Welding" pot-metal and got a hit with "Muggy Weld" Super-Alloy 1:

https://www.muggyweld.com/product/super-alloy-1/

After watching the various videos including this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwLuV00Psu0

I ordered their beginner kit and had it delivered to my US mail drop (has to go ground due to the flux that is included in the kit).

I watched the video again and then used masking tape to hold the ring and the cross bar connection together.

My torch was my wife's Creme Brulee butane torch as previously featured in my carpet installation post:



Getting to 350F with that torch only takes a minute or two before you see the flux bubble and turn brown.

My skill at applying the stick solder (Super-Alloy 1) wasn't that good but, in my defense, the flux did not work as I am used to with copper plumbing or electrical soldering, i.e. it didn't really promote the sucking in of the molten solder into the crack. I virtually had to force the solder into the crack.

I did both sides and eventually decided that I should quit. That was a couple of days ago (I got the Muggy Weld on Tuesday).

Today, I decided to clean up my work with a new set of pin files and my trusty tube of AutoSol. Good idea but....

As I am cleaning things up, I guess I put some strain on my less than perfect "weld" and it cracked again - not fully, just partially.

So I decided to try re-"welding". Got out supplies and the torch and started in. What I didn't do, like a fool, was to tape the joint in place with new masking tape (I had removed the old stuff during the joint cleaning process).

If you are thinking ahead, you know what happened: As I re-heated the joint to try to fix the partial break, the complete "weld" let go - because the joint was no longer restrained. I said a few swear words and realized that I had no choice but to start over.

However, starting over meant heating the two parts of the broke joint up until the solder was hot enough to be brushed away using a brass (or fine stainless steel brush). That took few minutes.

When the ring cooled down, I got the two parts into position again and used masking tape to firmly hold the bits together. Then I placed horn ring in my 1982 Black and Decker WorkMate "vise" (at the cross-bar level) added the flux with a Q-tip pushing it down into the cracks and started again. This time, with more experience, I did a better job. I also used the wire brush to remove excess solder while it was still hot. After doing the top side, I did the reverse side (repositioning the ring in the "vice"). Then I checked the front. Much better.

I let it cool and then, with the ring still in the vice, I went at the joint with the needle files (the half round, round side down) and then the AutoSol (BTW - the "burnt" flux comes off with solvent after cooling). I had a hard time stopping with the file. I realized that I didn't want to take all the solder because some of it is working as a reinforcement.

End result is far from perfect. I know that I could try again but I think it is pretty good now for a daily driver (not a show car) - as long as you remember to use the lower horn ring or the left side upper - just not the ride side upper.

Live and learn. Too soon old, too late smart.

Some photos:







(56PlymouthHornRing.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRing_2.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRing_DetailOfTheBreakBeforeFixingWithMuggyWeld.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingAndMuggyWeldSuppliesAndButaneTorch.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_front.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_back.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_ReadyToCleanUp.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp.jpg)



(56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp_detail.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRing.jpg (155KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRing_2.jpg (161KB - 10 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRing_DetailOfTheBreakBeforeFixingWithMuggyWeld.jpg (152KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingAndMuggyWeldSuppliesAndButaneTorch.jpg (225KB - 10 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_front.jpg (116KB - 12 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_back.jpg (125KB - 9 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingFirstAttempt_ReadyToCleanUp.jpg (212KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp.jpg (185KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments 56PlymouthHornRingSecondAttempt_AfterCleanUp_detail.jpg (139KB - 12 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mstrug
Posted 2018-08-11 6:32 PM (#568254 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5556
50005002525
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth)
That's a fine job. You saved a that otherwise may have been trashed. Good work! Marc.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2018-08-11 6:33 PM (#568255 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8259
5000200010001001002525
Location: Perth Australia
Often wondered about real world experience with muggy weld

Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2018-09-04 2:10 PM (#569581 - in reply to #568255)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert

Posts: 3567
200010005002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
ttotired - 2018-08-11 6:33 PM
Often wondered about real world experience with muggy weld


Okay. Here is real world experience: The US Postal Service is stronger than Muggy Weld, i.e. it broke in transit.

Must have been that Postie that told his buddy to "GO LONG" and then drop kicked my well padded USPS Flat Rate box into a wall. FK ME.

I give up.

Edited by 56D500boy 2018-09-04 2:13 PM




(USPSvsMuggyWeld_small.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments USPSvsMuggyWeld_small.jpg (102KB - 6 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
GaryS
Posted 2018-09-04 2:37 PM (#569587 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1016
1000
Location: Ponder, TX
The "weld" part of the name is misleading. I used quite a lot of Muggy Weld filling pitted chrome and even replacing lead fill in body parts, but it doesn't do the job of welding anything.


Here is a wiper bezel for my '56 Plymouth that I filled and replated. Lots of work, but I'm satisfied.

Edited by GaryS 2018-09-04 2:42 PM




(Wiper Bezels.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Wiper Bezels.JPG (241KB - 6 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mikes2nd
Posted 2018-09-04 3:51 PM (#569592 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments


Expert

Posts: 3002
20001000
muggy weld works, it takes some getting used to though and you should practice.

With the whole heating and flux it gets tricky but in the end it works well.


Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2018-09-04 10:28 PM (#569609 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert

Posts: 4672
200020005001002525
Location: So. California
If you reinforce it ALOT on the backside, it should be able to hold up well.
However, the main thing you did wrong is that you didn't de-chrome the part before you started. You need to remove all the chrome plating first because it won't stick to that layer. After you finish your work, you need to re-chrome it.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2018-09-04 10:44 PM (#569610 - in reply to #569609)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments



Expert

Posts: 3567
200010005002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
Whatever. I wanted to "weld" the break in the pot metal, not the chrome part. If the flux worked better, that would have worked, but it didn't, and it didn't (at least not enough to withstand USPS's careful handling procedures).

I learned something but it was an expensive lesson.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
51coronet
Posted 2018-09-05 1:38 PM (#569642 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments


Veteran

Posts: 264
1001002525
It will work trust me I have fixed worse with it. Takes some getting used to. The key I have found is flux flux flux. They don't send enough flux for bigger or multiple jobs in my opinion. Once you get the flux part down the heat part is the next tricky thing to deal with. Hold it together again and get that stuff worked in from the back side where blobs wont matter. Get a decent spread past the breakage. The alloy needs some intact metal as a reinforcement. I have fixed stressed parts (door handles) with success.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
59 in Calif
Posted 2018-09-08 7:46 PM (#569821 - in reply to #568245)
Subject: Re: One attempt at repairing a pot metal horn ring - some comments


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1071
10002525
Location: Hayward, Calif
I too tried the 'muggy weld' thing. Yes the chrome needs to be removed. I had very limited success as I was trying to fill corrosion pitts in trim molding that wasn't very thick to start with. Pot metal will not withstand much heat. And I just kept burning holes in it. Trying to control the heat temperature is very critical and it doesn't take much to over heat the part you are trying to save. The video makes it look easy. I'm guessing with a lot of practice someone might get proficient at it. Jerry
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread



(Delete all cookies set by this site)