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57 DeSoto Window Channel Question Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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macedon |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 963 Location: San Antonio, TX | I'm redoing the window channels on my 57 DeSoto sedan. There are two sizes. One size for the channel of the back window and the top and back of the front window. And a second smaller size for the front channel of the front window. Bernbaum lists two specifically for the 57 DeSoto sedan. A-361 Window channel, 8 ft. length and A-363 Chrome beaded window channel, 8 ft. length Neither of mine are chrome beaded. So anyone used these Bernbaum channels for the 57 DeSoto sedan??? Thanks. | ||
57desoto |
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Expert Posts: 1488 Location: New Castle PA | I have not used the Bernbaum channels. I actually think the last set I used was ordered right out of a J C Whitney catalog. I'm in need of them for the front edge of my Adventurer hardtop, so perhaps I'll do some looking into this a bit. Definitely not the beaded ones. | ||
bbrasse1 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 537 Location: Upstate NY | I bought mine from Gary Goers but that was a couple of years ago. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | i thought people werent happy with bernbaums? steelrubber has some https://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1957&make=desoto&model=firedome&style=4-door-sedan-6-passenger
ebay
Restoration Specialties out of PA are supposed to be good and great prices but youll have to do tweaking.
http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Place call PUI? search on them, they had issues but supposudly make a kit?
Edited by mikes2nd 2018-09-01 11:33 AM | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mikes2nd - 2018-09-01 11:19 AM i thought people werent happy with bernbaums? steelrubber has some https://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1957&make=desoto&model=fire... ebay Restoration Specialties out of PA are supposed to be good and great prices but youll have to do tweaking. http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/ As I have tried to mention before , *IF* you post links, you *HAVE TO* add carriage return at the end of the link to activate the link and make it live. Which I what I just did within the "QUOTE" above. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | macedon - 2018-08-23 7:54 PM I'm redoing the window channels on my 57 DeSoto sedan. There are two sizes. One size for the channel of the back window and the top and back of the front window. And a second smaller size for the front channel of the front window. On the assumption that a 57 Desoto sedan is at least somewhat similar to a 56 Dodge sedan, I can offer the following: 1. There are two types of channel used in each sedan door: a) a rigid vertical channel that lives in the vent window frame and b) a flexible channel that lives in a removable vertical frame section (inside the door) on the side opposite to the vent window frame and then runs up and into the top of the door frame. These are shown in the diagram below as 23-42-13 and 23-42-16, respectively. Continues under the diagram. 2. In my (limited) experience, you can get away with using 4 ft of each type of channel in each door, i.e. one 8 ft stick of channel will do two doors (this might not be true in a 57 Desoto but it has been true for my 56 Dodge). 3. Each channel type comes in two flavours, i.e. with and without stainless steel beading. I opted for the stainless steel beading because I thought that I would like the look on my 56 Custom Royal (which already has more "chrome" than a Royal or a Coronet). 4. These channels are available from any shop that caters to restoring 55-57 Chevys and Fords because everybody pretty much used the same sources. I have two places within 30 minutes of home that I can buy these channels. Hopefully you can avoid ordering on line on that basis. 5. Working with the beaded flexible channel isn't easy. Unbeaded flexible would be easier (I am guessing). On this last point, I started a thread to which several people have replied with hints (Thanks for that folks). I also tried making a bending template based on the shape of the top of the window. I made this template out of 3/4" plywood and if you restrain the channel as you go around the 90 deg bend, the results are pretty good. The template and the restraints (a vice-clamp): The result (compared to the non-template, non-restrained, attempt): REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=69411&... Edited by 56D500boy 2018-09-02 2:10 PM | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | The bends are easy If you look at how the old one came out, you will notice cuts in the back and sides of it, just put a few cuts in the back at the bend point. Done | ||
macedon |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 963 Location: San Antonio, TX | I ended up getting mine from Restoration Specialties. I highly recommend them. Here is a picture with part numbers. The lining that goes in the channel on the back side of the vent window is riveted in place. The rivets are also used to assemble the vent window frame. I decided to leave the rivets intact. The original channel lining can be removed without removing the rivets. The new lining fits very tight in the frame. I also glued it in place. It's not moving. I was a little worried about the clearance since I was putting the new lining on top of the rivets. I did a test fit in the car and the window slides up and down smoothly. And I have power windows. Edited by macedon 2018-12-22 12:05 PM (windowchannel.JPG) Attachments ---------------- windowchannel.JPG (105KB - 181 downloads) | ||
westwoodblue |
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Do you have to pull the doors to get the aluminum frames out? I assume there's no way to replace the channels with the glass in? | |||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | westwoodblue - 2019-01-05 3:51 PM Do you have to pull the doors to get the aluminum frames out? I assume there's no way to replace the channels with the glass in? I would be surprised if that is the way that they designed the doors. Would make no sense. However, you undoubtedly have to remove the door handles and the inner door panels (and the liner) to find some of the bolts that are holding the frames to the door. As for potential interference between a rivet head and a window channel (aka "run"), when I was doing my 56 Dodge sedan doors, where I thought that was going to be an issue, I drilled a hole through the bottom (not sides) of the channel in the appropriate location (and size) so that the rivet protrudes into the channel space (not going cause an issue with the glass). Reference: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=65581&... | ||
macedon |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 963 Location: San Antonio, TX | You do not have to remove the doors to remove the aluminum window frames. Remove the 5 or 6 bolts and 1 screw and then pull straight up. Some wiggling and jiggling and the appropriate French and they slide right out. Edited by macedon 2019-01-07 9:36 PM (doorframes.JPG) Attachments ---------------- doorframes.JPG (146KB - 161 downloads) | ||
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