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Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-15 9:30 PM (#571764)
Subject: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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I am in the process of re-installing *ALL* of the front grill area bit on my 56 Dodge after doing some painting. In doing so, I noticed that my OE passenger side parking light housing is not as nice as I would like. Furthermore, the "spare" housing I bought to get a good lens while waiting almost 2 years for George Laurie to come through (he did, but it was just a few weeks short of 2 years), is much better.

I would swap in them in a heart beat *BUT* (there's always something), the seller of the spare housing (or somebody before him) cut the wiring near the connection strip end (and removed the OE terminals on the ends). The best solution would be to swap my OE wiring into the "spare" housing but it looks like the two pin socket was crimped into the housing and won't want to come out without making a mess.

Please tell me I'm wrong and that there is a easy way to swap the wiring/sockets on these two housings. See below.



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-15 9:42 PM




(56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_OE_BackSide.jpg)



(56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_OE_SocketSide.jpg)



(56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_SpareUnit_BackSide.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_OE_BackSide.jpg (94KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_OE_SocketSide.jpg (166KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments 56DodgePassengerSideParkSignalLightHousing_SpareUnit_BackSide.jpg (127KB - 11 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-16 12:29 AM (#571776 - in reply to #571764)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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Most probably the contact plate in the receptacle is held in place by the chrimped sleeve between the 90º rubber tube and the wire harness. You could carefully cut the sleeve open with a Dremel and then push the cable harness into the housing, which will result in that the contact plate will come out from the receptacle.


Cut the oem connectors and drill out the wires - then solder them back ones your done.


The crimping sleeve could be replaced with chrimping tube (with glue).
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-16 1:51 AM (#571781 - in reply to #571776)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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Thanks Sven.

Or I could just cut both sets of wires and crimp/solder a slice and seal with heat shrink (close to the housing so it is more hidden). ??

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wizard
Posted 2018-10-16 2:40 AM (#571782 - in reply to #571764)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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Sure Dave, that's the easiest way
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normsclassicradio
Posted 2018-10-16 5:28 PM (#571806 - in reply to #571781)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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I use crimp and seal connectors available at most parts jobbers. A heat gun will shrink them, and heat melts the sealing compound so the joint is water tight.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-16 9:19 PM (#571824 - in reply to #571764)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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I don't trust those heat shrink connectors. The solder in them is very low melting temperature. As natural temperature cycling occurs, it can get pretty hot in confined areas subject to strong sunlight (especially here - not so much in MT), and bring it close to it's melting temperature, but maybe not close enough to melt it. But doing so over and over again will cause the solder to become brittle and eventually fail. I had a car once that was filled with poorly installed electrical connectors. That thing drove me nuts chasing all the open circuits in it. Never again. Sn-Pb solder and heat shrink tubing over it works great and I know it won't come back to bite me later.
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-18 9:00 PM (#571938 - in reply to #571781)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



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56D500boy - 2018-10-16 1:51 AM

Or I could just cut both sets of wires and crimp/solder a slice and seal with heat shrink (close to the housing so it is more hidden). ??
:)


I reviewed the options that were suggested and discovered one or two other ones. However, I decided that they all had some draw backs of some form. So my final solution was to splice the wires together in the middle of the rad support area. I attached the OE wire connectors (yellow and brown) to the bus bar on the firewall and then cut it at approximately the middle of the rad support. Then I did the same with the wires from the new (better) housing and socket. At the suggestion of my neighbour I cut the plastic insulation off two red (18-22 gauge) crimp connectors and staggered the connection.

I crimped the connectors very diligently (hard) one at a time. I wrapped the first one in electricians tape. Ditto the second (but less tape). Before I finalized things, I checked that both park and signal lights worked (they did).

Then I slid the 1/4" x 3" heat shrink tubing (that I had remembered to slip over one of the wire groups before the crimping (DUH)) over the splice area. I using a couple old fashioned wooden matches, I used their heat to shrink the tubing. Seems fine and since it will be on the back side of the rad support, it will never really be a) seen or b) stressed. Should be good.

Took the car for a spin. Nice to have it back together again. Now *IF* I would just remember to re-install the horns.





Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-19 11:42 AM
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normsclassicradio
Posted 2018-10-19 9:29 AM (#571959 - in reply to #571824)
Subject: Re: Swapping sockets on a Park/Signal Light Housing - How?



Member

Posts: 26
25
Location: Kalispell, MT USA
I don't use those either. Known at Napa as "solder-seal" splice connector. The ones I use are like regular butt connectors, bit with heat shrink for an insulator. I use the uninsulated crimp on my crimping pliers. It perforates the sleeve, but the sealer fills in the hole. It make a very strong mechanical joint.

I think you did a good choice moving the spice up to the core support. Less road splash there.



Powerflite - 2018-10-16 7:19 PM

I don't trust those heat shrink connectors. The solder in them is very low melting temperature. As natural temperature cycling occurs, it can get pretty hot in confined areas subject to strong sunlight (especially here - not so much in MT), and bring it close to it's melting temperature, but maybe not close enough to melt it. But doing so over and over again will cause the solder to become brittle and eventually fail. I had a car once that was filled with poorly installed electrical connectors. That thing drove me nuts chasing all the open circuits in it. Never again. Sn-Pb solder and heat shrink tubing over it works great and I know it won't come back to bite me later.
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