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 Parade Green 57 New Yorker CoupeJump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143    Location: So. Cal | The engine is coming together slowly. I'm not bolting down the intake because I like to visually check that the cam has good oil flowing over it before I crank it, just to verify for sure. Also, I will put a single 4bbl intake on it first for the cam break in, and after the motor is working well, then change over to the dual quads. I was thinking that I could use studs to hold the spacers to the heads, but obviously I can't use them on both sides.  Oh well, at least they make it easier on one side anyway. I need to apply a light layer of filler on the primer air cleaner before I can paint it, due to all the dent removal that I had to do to it. I haven't extended the crossover to fit the 331 heads or adjusted the valves yet. The 10:1 piston compression is reduced by 0.5 point by the thicker modern head gasket and increased by 1 point from the smaller 331 heads. So I expect to get around 10.5:1 out of this combo. I using an Isky 270 grind cam, the same grind I used in my '56 Savoy. I might be able to get away with a 280 grind due to the higher compression, but didn't want to take the chance on it. Edited by Powerflite 2022-03-27 3:37 AM (PG 57NY 392 hemi engine mostly assembled.jpg) Attachments ----------------  PG 57NY 392 hemi engine mostly assembled.jpg (182KB - 271 downloads) | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7557   Location: northern germany | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I welded in a couple of rust holes in the rear window trough. There is another hole in the lower section at the far right of the picture that looks to have been there from the factory. It's where the two seams come together. I am considering leaving it, but not sure yet. It looks like I should reduce the size of the trim clip hole in at the far left of the picture as well. That elongated size is probably going to be a pain to seal well. I also welded in the small rust hole on the roof, from the roof trim and did a more thorough job fixing dents in the roof. I'm going to try to get the roof painted and the rear window installed. Edited by Powerflite 2022-06-26 10:56 AM (57NY PG Window Trough Welding.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57NY PG Window Trough Welding.jpg (94KB - 253 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I was just going to do a trial fit of the window to make any adjustments, if required. But then, I realized that my goal of getting the window installed was met, and I should move on to painting the firewall & installing the motor now. I am trying to get things put back together for a possible house move in the near future so my priorities are a skewed in that direction. The thought of moving the rear glass & motor to this car separately sounded like a bad nightmare. (57NY PG Rear Window.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57NY PG Rear Window.jpg (124KB - 267 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | As odd as it was to find that Danny's New Yorker 2dr coupe was built on the same day as this one, it's even more strange that the body tag on the radiator support of my copper/beige 2dr '57 Windsor was built on the same day as well! That's a Detroit style tag that doesn't belong to my Windsor as it also has an LA style tag on the firewall that does belong to it. It looks like the front end was swapped out on it at some point. Maybe it was originally a single headlight car, or maybe it got into a fender bender at some point in it's life? I wish I had more info on this car, other than it's front end and body tag, but that's all I have from it. And if that wasn't strange enough, lo and behold, the forest green 300C that recently came up for sale, was also built on the same day! Now I know of four 2dr Chrysler coupes, all built on the same day! What are the odds of that? (Copper 57 Windsor Front Tag-s.jpg) (79016751-770-0@2X.jpg) (1957_Chrysler_300C Body Tag.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Copper 57 Windsor Front Tag-s.jpg (110KB - 227 downloads) 79016751-770-0@2X.jpg (127KB - 220 downloads) 1957_Chrysler_300C Body Tag.jpg (80KB - 225 downloads) | ||
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| 57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3969  Location: DFW, TX | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | Maybe they saved them up to do at the same day? The hood on this car is from a '58 Chrysler with no badge on the front, the letters higher up, and also had a large, nasty dent in the front of it. Unfortunately, the dent was right over the under structure so I couldn't easily access the backside. I was contemplating cutting the inner structure out to get to it better, or drilling strategic holes into it, but finally I decided to try to get as far as I could without any cutting. That was a great decision as I was able to pop it out completely by hammering a very long & stiff body spoon that I inserted underneath the under structure. Worked perfectly. The paint on it isn't smooth enough to tell if it is completely done, but I can't feel any dents in it any more. I also took the time to lower the letter holes by 15/16" and drill the holes for the center badge. Now I need to weld in the old holes and clean them up. I noticed that the "S" emblem had been mounted upside down all these years (as seen by it's impression into the paint) as I had to turn it around to get them to all line up properly.  Edited by Powerflite 2022-10-04 4:29 AM (P-G 57 New Yorker Hood Conversion.jpg) (Long Body Spoon.jpg) Attachments ---------------- P-G 57 New Yorker Hood Conversion.jpg (86KB - 222 downloads) Long Body Spoon.jpg (49KB - 208 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | The hood was covered with 7 layers of paint and bondo so I used a coarse 7" flapper disc to remove it all. I had to be careful because those can cut right through the metal quite easily. Now I could see that I need to work the bend a little more, but it's very close. I then put the back section of the hood together to re-weld the spots that had separated and massaged one corner back into it's proper shape. I'm thinking of sandblasting the hood now before painting the underside. I also got tired of the trunk lid looking like a '58. After drilling new holes for the '57 license plate bezel and welding up the '58 letter holes, I mounted the new bezel I obtained from BigM onto the car. (PG 57NY Trunk Welding.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Trunk Welding.jpg (107KB - 216 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I purchased another crossover that I cut to fit the 331 heads on this motor. I then tack welded the pieces together while bolted to the engine. I had to rotate the parts to ensure that I welded them at a middle point, not at one extreme. This time, I didn't bother to create one solid piece first before welding, but just put it together with 4 separate parts, which was a lot faster. I had about 1/16" gap all around them, and that seemed to work well to give me good weld penetration with the nickel wire. Now time to clean it up and it'll be ready to pressure test & paint. If it fails the test, I'll melt some brass over the failure area(s). It's funny to mount up this tiny spool of nickel wire to my welder because I usually run 12" spools on it. But this little guy was expensive enough as it is!(392 Extended Crossover Welded.jpg) (Nickel Wire in Welder.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 392 Extended Crossover Welded.jpg (123KB - 208 downloads) Nickel Wire in Welder.jpg (174KB - 210 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | It came out pretty well. The nice thing is the extension area is mostly hidden by the generator when it's mounted on the engine. It will require a spacer in order to mount the generator on there. My pressure test didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I'll have to test it for real when I get the motor running. My last one didn't have any leak issues, so it should be fine. Now I need to cut out some gaskets so I can put these on for good. I have a lot of old gasket sets, but for some reason, I have very few of these water pump/crossover gaskets - maybe because it takes 4 of them per motor. Edited by Powerflite 2022-12-05 11:51 AM (392 Extended Crossover Finished.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 392 Extended Crossover Finished.jpg (152KB - 204 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | The right front floor on this car isn't in very good shape. The left floor looks much better, and I'm hoping that it won't require as much work as this side. I cut the rusted section out to the size of my RCar replacement panel. After pounding out all the mis-placed impressions by RCar, I ended up with the body mount dimple in the wrong spot. It was also not quite as large as the originals, so I'm going to try again and weld it in when it's ready. I ended up just cutting off the long extension on the back outer part of the panel because it didn't line up very well either, and had a lot of pound marks from taking out the mis-placed seat mount. I also had to add in the raised square section in the back of it because they didn't bother to put it in. The floor is going to require some inner rocker & seat mount repair before I can weld the new floor in, but it's actually in better shape than my pink '56 Belvedere floor was, so that's good. I had to quit early today because of rain, so I didn't get as much done as I would have liked. I'll spend the rest of my day doing final assembly of the motor. Edited by Powerflite 2022-12-10 4:33 PM (PGreen 57NY Right Front Floor Rust.jpg) (PGreen 57NY Right Front Floor Cut.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY Right Front Floor Rust.jpg (163KB - 186 downloads) PGreen 57NY Right Front Floor Cut.jpg (192KB - 223 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I was questioning why I kept the floor from the Forest Green '57 New Yorker 4dr hardtop around. The rockers on it were in terrible shape and there was significant rust under the heavy metal platform used for the rear door post (I have already removed it before taking this picture). But amazingly, the top of the front rocker was actually in decent shape so I can use it to fix the top of my coupe's rocker. That saves me from having to make that from scratch as no one makes the inner top section. Even though the rear floor has a terrible rust hole from the metal platform that sat on top of it, the rest of the rear floor is in great shape too, along with the pockets above them. So I am planning to use that area as well. The moral of the story is to never throw anything away!  (57NY 4dr Hardtop Passenger Floor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57NY 4dr Hardtop Passenger Floor.jpg (244KB - 202 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 Location: Finland | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | This car has plenty of rust repair for you to satisfy your itch once you finish your car, Ralf. You are more than welcome to come over and try your hand on these. I think I'm finally mostly done cutting panels out of the floor now - except for the rockers, which I am saving for last. I should be able to start fabricating and welding on the inner structure now. (57NY Passenger Floor Cut.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57NY Passenger Floor Cut.jpg (149KB - 215 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 Location: Finland | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | You're welcome here anytime Ralf. I patched my repair panels to add the missing length at the top, add the new pocket I made and fix the rusted tip of the beads on the rear panel. I should have cut that rear patch into a more regular shape first to save some work, but it's done now. I made depressions in the top piece just using my vice. Being separated into a smaller piece made it pretty easy to match to the rest of it. I'll clean these welds up and cut them to a more exact fit, and these will be ready to weld in. I'm working on all the little inner panel repairs first though. (PGreen 57NY Patched Panels.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY Patched Panels.jpg (261KB - 205 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | All the rain has delayed my progress quite a bit on this project. I may have to interrupt it to work on other things if I don't get a lot done on it tomorrow. Right now I am making the inner rocker patch panels and thought I would show my poor man's sheet metal brake. It isn't fancy, but it get's the job done. (Poor Man's Sheet Metal Brake.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Poor Man's Sheet Metal Brake.jpg (176KB - 230 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 Location: Finland | That`s the right spirit Nathan , fancy tools are not needed really if one is resiliant. Low tech rules  | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | Maybe someday I can see if their claim holds true. I made this picture both from the '57 and '58 Chrysler manuals. (57 Chrysler Off Good Start.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57 Chrysler Off Good Start.jpg (111KB - 239 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I made some progress on the floors in this car. I finished the inner rocker repairs and cleaned up the front section enough to be able to place and spot weld the new plan into place. I didn't drill out the plug weld holes in the panel yet. I am thinking of trying to do that after it's placed down, using a carbide cutter to make the holes. If that fails, I'll pull the panel back out and drill them first. I'm happy to have my first home-made body pocket installed in this panel. Hopefully, I can make them even better and quicker on all the future projects. I need to get working on the Fireflite again, so I will likely put this project aside for awhile. I was hoping to get it done before now, but life got in the way and I didn't get as much done as I had hoped. (PGreen 57NY Rt Floor Pan Tacked.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY Rt Floor Pan Tacked.jpg (202KB - 186 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I decided to get back to this project and at least finish the floor work I had started on it. I made some progress and got the main pan mostly welded in place, and cleaned up a lot of the welds in the seat mount area. I also attempted to adjust the passenger door latch to align it better, but I am confused as to why it is so far off. In order to get the catch for the latch where it needs to be, I had to remove 2 of the 3 screws and place it in a position far below where it can be placed otherwise. I'm not sure how or why it is so far off, but that's where the door needs to align to. I may need to do some cutting & welding in the future to move it permanently. But the latch itself isn't working either so I will need to replace that first before I go any further on it. (PGreen 57NY Right Floor Pan Welding.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY Right Floor Pan Welding.jpg (162KB - 153 downloads) | ||
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| Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2600 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | |||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 Location: Finland | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | Thanks Joakim. I try to do a good job with them. Ralf, no, the striker was always placed too high ever since I owned the car. I always had to lift the door very high (and out of alignment with the body) to get the latch over the striker. I got tired of doing that, and had to remove the screws in order to get it low enough. These pictures show where the striker is currently, and how it looks from the outside. Before I did this, the door was 1/4-1/2" too high to match to the body. I'll check out that plate and see if it is obviously turned around in there. (PGreen 57NY New Striker Position.jpg) (PGreen 57NY New Door Alignment.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY New Striker Position.jpg (98KB - 195 downloads) PGreen 57NY New Door Alignment.jpg (78KB - 157 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 Location: Finland | |||
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| springsweptwing |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1145 Location: Blackpool, United Kingdom. | Hi Nathan, That striker plate looks bent up, put it back in original place then use a piece of box section slid over the striker to bend it down so door closes properly. (IMG_20231028_190510493_copy_1200x1229.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_20231028_190510493_copy_1200x1229.jpg (360KB - 150 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I'm working on this car more because I want to remove it from my driveway so I can work on other projects. The rusted wheel lip on the right side was bugging me so I made an effort to cut it out and weld new patches into it. There are 4 spots that need more welding: the 2 in the front are pin-holes, and the 2 in the back are gouges from the grinder. There's also more grinding that needs to be done to clean it up better, now that I can see it in a uniform color. Unfortunately, I can't finish it without lifting the rear part of the body off the frame because the quarter panel has sagged, causing a bend where the remaining hole is. So I just tacked a small piece there to keep it covered until I can get around to finishing it. Never weld a quarter panel while it is bending, is generally a good rule of thumb. (PG 57NY Right Wheel Wheel Ground.jpg) (PG 57NY Right Wheel Wheel Primed.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Right Wheel Wheel Ground.jpg (170KB - 141 downloads) PG 57NY Right Wheel Wheel Primed.jpg (147KB - 126 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I cleaned up the wheel lip a little better and re-welded those 4 spots. The door latches on this car are really bugging me. Call me a traditionalist, but I like to be able to latch the doors properly. Unfortunately, I broke 2 of the catch screws on the passenger side trying to get them out. Time to get a new car. I was more gentle with the third one so I didn't break it, which made it much easier to hold the plate in place to be able to weld it and twist them out with the vice grips. Otherwise you would likely have to tack-weld the plate to the panel first to hold it in place. This trick works amazingly well, even when they are recessed in the panel like this. Just be careful not to weld the screw to the panel. I also bent the catch arm downward in my heavy duty vice and also pushed it inward to bring it to where it should be. Trying it out after some adjustment, now my door latches properly. Unfortunately, the driver's side catch needs a lot more work than this to get it right, along with a re-alignment of the door itself. (PG 57NY Right Door Catch Broken Bolt Removal.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Right Door Catch Broken Bolt Removal.jpg (118KB - 136 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | More progress on the rusted floor. This project ends up being on and off again, and it likely will continue to be like that, but I need to get it to the point that I can prime the floor so it doesn't rust in the rain. I tried using my press to make the rear pocket, but it distorted the panel a lot and created some creases in it that I didn't like. So I tried just hammering inside my die and that worked out better, for the most part, but took longer. The rear part that still needs to be done extends a little under the brace in one spot, so I have to fit and weld it from under the car. Not looking forward to that. Always fun welding upside down. (PG 57NY Right Floor Welding Progress.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Right Floor Welding Progress.jpg (202KB - 137 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I decided to tackle the left door catch problem. Someone really buggered this up in the past. I really didn't want to have to deal with this, but it needs to be done. I removed the catch by breaking one screw and cutting the welds, and then removed the outer panel. The inner panel is going to require some repair before I can begin to put it all back together. While I was chiseling the outer panel off, A large glob of bondo worked its way loose from the upper quarter panel, revealing a large hole up there. Whoever did that was very generous with the bondo application! I wonder why that hole was there in the first place. My repair panel for this is coming from the black 300D that I parted out. (PG 57NY Left Door Catch Bunged Up.jpg) (300D Left Door Catch Panel.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Left Door Catch Bunged Up.jpg (186KB - 132 downloads) 300D Left Door Catch Panel.jpg (181KB - 122 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | Old vs. new parts from the 300D. I used the new inner patch to carefully mark the old inner panel, and then cut it out...not so carefully. But it fit great in the proper placement. Ready for welding and then working on the outer panel. The tabs on the back get twisted to keep the adjustment plate from falling down the quarter panel. The reason why I was forced to cutting this all apart is because the adjustment plate was hard welded to both the inner & outer panels. No way to adjust it like that, so it had to all come apart. Edited by Powerflite 2024-05-04 4:18 PM (PG 57NY Left Inner Catch Panel Placed.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Left Inner Catch Panel Placed.jpg (118KB - 132 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I also got tired of the door stop area being cracked in multiple places and bending every time you pull the door out. So I hammered it back into place and welded it back up. No more wobbling or bending now. Just need to clean it up, which may not be very easy with the stop rod still in place. Edited by Powerflite 2024-05-04 4:33 PM (PG 57NY Left Door Stop Repair.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Left Door Stop Repair.jpg (116KB - 136 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I got the first pass of welding & grinding the outer layer done. It needs another round of welding to close up a couple pin-holes and to do the spot welds to the inner panel. I'm going to bolt the two panels together before I weld them and I'll clean up the corners of the outer panel using a small carbide burr on a die grinder. (PG 57NY Left Door Catch Ground.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PG 57NY Left Door Catch Ground.jpg (129KB - 117 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10143 Location: So. Cal | I am in between project cars now for a little while so I'm spending more time on this New Yorker. I finished welding in the new floor panels that I made for the car. This is about the 16th patch that I put into the right side floor pan. Most of them are small and went into the inner panels & seat mount. I still need to finish welding the patch that goes under the rear seat brace. I'm not looking forward to upside down welding so not sure when I will get to it. I decided to spray my work with epoxy primer so that it won't rust if it ends up raining & getting wet before I can finish it. (PGreen 57NY Rt Floor Welded.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PGreen 57NY Rt Floor Welded.jpg (171KB - 50 downloads) | ||
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