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Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-04-24 9:28 PM (#597310 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Apparently, the label on my new cam is false. The valve lift on it measures out as a stock New Yorker cam, not a 300D. Here are the numbers for comparison in the table below. I think the cam that I pulled out of the motor shows .01" smaller lift just because it is a little worn. I didn't really want to have to purchase a new cam for this motor, but I didn't want to run a stock New Yorker cam either. So I'll probably purchase the 270 cam from Hot Heads, the same specs as what I put into the 331 in my Savoy. I'm thinking that the stock converter should be OK with it since this motor will have 10:1 compression. The other option is to install a roller cam, but I don't feel very rich right now.



(392 Hemi Cam Specs.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Hemi Cam Specs.jpg (62KB - 457 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-04-26 3:49 AM (#597342 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: RE: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I cleaned up the block ready for new paint and ran a fine grit ball flex hone through the bores just enough to fully scuff the shine to allow the new rings to seat. Swapped the '58 pistons onto the rods with new rings after replacing the piston pins. The old ones looked marginal. I also measured the difference in deck height between the two pistons. I am hoping to get the crank back into it soon, but I'll have to wait for parts to arrive before I can get very far.



(57NY Hemi Cylinder Hone.jpg)



(392 Hemi Piston Comparison.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Hemi Cylinder Hone.jpg (133KB - 448 downloads)
Attachments 392 Hemi Piston Comparison.jpg (206KB - 451 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-13 1:40 AM (#598171 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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A correction to the picture above: After measuring more carefully, the difference is closer to .070" in height. I expected the cam bearings to be in good shape so I wasn't planning to replace them. But I found that the last 2 toward the rear were in unacceptable condition to just reuse. I decided to replace the bearings myself for the first time, so I ordered them from Hot Heads and an installation tool from the Car Shop. The tool comes with an extra die which is needed to work with big block Mopar cam bearings. I received the parts today so I can get moving on the rebuild again. Hopefully I don't screw it up. But I find I prefer to do things myself than to rely on some minimum wage guy in a shop; and the money I save the first time usually pays for the tool.



(Hemi Cam Bearings.jpg)



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Attachments Hemi Cam Bearings.jpg (251KB - 427 downloads)
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samstrader
Posted 2020-05-13 5:08 AM (#598179 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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I think you are smart to do the job yourself. You will make sure things are right. Just make sure to line the holes up right when you install the cam bearings; don't do it like my mechanic did.

I wish my block would have looked as good as yours after my mechanic cleaned it. Yours Looks great.

I'm sure you will get the cam bearings installed perfectly. And then you won't have to worry about it. I watched YouTube videos and you have a much higher end tool than they were using.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-17 12:00 PM (#598393 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Sam. I love using good quality tools. This thing worked really well for the 4 front bearings that it fit. I'll have to machine up a die for the rear bearing if I get tired of carrying my junk camshaft around. With the motor upside down, I stuck a long skinny screw driver up the water ports and knocked out as much rust as I could. Then blew it out of there. Got quite a bit of it out, so that makes me feel better. I replaced all the cam bearings and installed the new Isky cam, and it went in perfectly. I went to put in the crank, but realized that all the rear seals I have are for the 354 or 331. Too small for the 392. So I ordered a couple of them and have to wait for them to arrive now. I really need to do a better assesment of what I have so I dont have to wait around so much for more parts. Oh well, in the meantime, I can work on making a baffle for the oil pan.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-05-18 12:20 PM (#598433 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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Your engine being so clean will really make a difference on how well it runs and cools. It's going to be great.

I know what you mean about the seals. They say "plan the work and work the plan" but for me, a good project is when I only have to go to Home Depot 8 times or less. Sometimes the pause it takes to get another part gives you time to think things out better and helps you get a better job done.

It is going to run great and you and going to know exactly what is in it. That's going to be fun.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-19 3:22 PM (#598483 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Sam, yeah it would be even better if I could hot tank the block to remove everything out of the jackets, but at least I feel like I got the majority of it. I will also flush it out once I get the heads on it.
The rear seal on the 392 is pretty screwy. The seal used here isn't even made for this motor but adapted from some other application. Not sure what, maybe a 360? Anyway, it requires that this shim is placed underneath it to reduce the diameter and make it seat well. I don't trust this not to leak from underneath the seal so I clean out the groove really well with acetone, using cotton swabs, and apply high temp RTV between everything before it gets all buttoned up with the crank & main cap installed.



(392 Hemi Rear Seal.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Hemi Rear Seal.jpg (153KB - 448 downloads)
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22mafeja
Posted 2020-05-19 4:37 PM (#598494 - in reply to #598483)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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The shim was something new to me..I would absolutely put rtv silicone on both sides of it...
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mikes2nd
Posted 2020-05-20 1:14 AM (#598530 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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i remember installing that rear main... yeah i needed to put sealant on the ends... was weird but i followed directions.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-24 12:55 PM (#598726 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got the short block together yesterday. Coming along nicely. It seems like it wouldn't take much time to put these together based on how easy it is to take them apart, but it always take much longer than I expect. The original timing chain from this motor is the only original one I have seen that was still really tight, so I could have reused it, but I decided to replace it instead. I also included a picture of the piston compression height for reference. I have a set of heads that were used for racing. They have aftermarket springs installed into them so I am thinking I will take them to the machine shop to measure how much spring pressure they apply to see if I can use them as-is, since they have almost no miles on them. Eventually I will put aluminum heads on this motor, but I don't have enough money to do that now so a set of iron heads will do until then.



(57NY 392 Hemi Short Block.jpg)



(1958 Hemi Piston Compression Height.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY 392 Hemi Short Block.jpg (202KB - 435 downloads)
Attachments 1958 Hemi Piston Compression Height.jpg (202KB - 440 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2020-05-24 2:02 PM (#598733 - in reply to #598726)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks great! Is that a SA-Gear timing sprocket, that has a slot instead of a bore for the camshaft pin?
If so, have you deburred the slot? It looks like one.

Just bought a timing set from that company and was shocked that the chain was NOT made in the US and that the sprocket, that they proudly advertise as "Made in the USA", slot wasn't deburred. If I had it installed that way it would have caused severe axial run out and premature wear.

Ok, looks like the 392 cams do not have a pin like the big blocks, so nothing to worry about.

Edited by 1960fury 2020-05-24 4:27 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-24 5:27 PM (#598738 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks, the timing chain set is a Summit Racing brand, but it could have been made by SA. You're right that the hemi uses square keys in the cam & crank so it requires square slots. I didn't notice any burs on it, but I will look over it again, just in case.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-25 7:52 PM (#598794 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I made a baffle for the oil pan. I didn't make it extend as far forward as the last time I made one, as I think it was a little overkill. But I kept the holes in the corners of it to allow the oil to flow from the back end.



(392 Hemi Oil Pan Baffle.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Hemi Oil Pan Baffle.jpg (219KB - 456 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-05-27 4:28 PM (#598844 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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It's coming along now. This is the first time I have used the chrome dipstick from Hot Heads as my original was long gone. That thing sure fits tight in there! I'm ready to bolt the heads on, but they aren't ready yet so they may hold me up for a while. I'm thinking of trying out the old metal head gaskets on it as I have gobs of them. I'll paint the exhaust manifolds and go through the power steering pump until the heads are ready. But I have decided to paint the firewall now, before I put this engine in the car. So I'll take some time off work to go buy some paint in the next couple of days. Time to decide on the exact shade of Parade Green I am looking for.



(57NY 392 Hemi Shortblock.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY 392 Hemi Shortblock.jpg (212KB - 437 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2020-05-27 4:59 PM (#598846 - in reply to #598794)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2020-05-25 7:52 PM

I made a baffle for the oil pan. I didn't make it extend as far forward as the last time I made one, as I think it was a little overkill. But I kept the holes in the corners of it to allow the oil to flow from the back end.


Nice! Consider adding another baffle. I always add a de- and acceleration baffle, along with a windage tray of course.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-06 2:07 PM (#599334 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: RE: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I finally got around to spot welding the replacement lids on these 300C air cleaners. I was going to bend my own tongs to create the needed clearance, but it was such a pain to do without the right equipment, that I decided just to purchase them from Ebay. The spot welds came out really good on the lid as well as on the replacement lid mount that it needed. Unfortunately, in the meantime, I lost the little bracket that I made for one of them. Hopefully it'll show up, and when it does, I can weld it on there. Otherwise, I'll have to make another one. Now I just need to fill in the small slot I made to be able to assemble them.



(57NY Air Cleaner Spot Welding.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Air Cleaner Spot Welding.jpg (282KB - 425 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-07 3:23 AM (#599362 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got the slots welded up and dressed, and got the air cleaners cleaned up. Once the old paint came off, I noticed the "TOP" stamp at the top of the lids looking back at me. I realized that those were useful when these parts were used as lids, but not now. So I welded them in and ground them back down to get rid of them. It would have been a lot easier to just use some bondo on them to cover them up, but this wasn't too hard either. These also have a drain hole in them that the 300C cleaners didn't use, but those don't bother me as they are at the bottom and completely unnoticeable when installed.

I also cleaned up the lids and large chunks of rust came off of one of them, revealing a lid that is holier than the Pope. I tried cutting the middle section out and welding it to a new outer, but the thing warped horribly due to how thin this metal is. I think I can eventually make it work, but it will take time. I do have a couple of extra lids so I will just use those, but I had other plans for them so I will want to make this replacement work at some point.



(57NY Air Cleaner Prep.jpg)



(57NY Rusted Lid.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Air Cleaner Prep.jpg (254KB - 424 downloads)
Attachments 57NY Rusted Lid.jpg (158KB - 420 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-09 11:47 AM (#599461 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I purchased a set of '55 Windsor spinner hubcaps for this car. I am thinking of painting the centers either black or Parade Green and using the '56 New Yorker centers in them. A pretty good looking option for 15" wheels I think. I may start with the ribbed '55 hubcaps instead. Not sure which I like better yet.



(1955 Windsor Spinners1.jpg)



(1957 New Yorker Spinner.jpg)



(55NY Spinner Hubcap1.jpg)



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Attachments 1955 Windsor Spinners1.jpg (334KB - 438 downloads)
Attachments 1957 New Yorker Spinner.jpg (192KB - 414 downloads)
Attachments 55NY Spinner Hubcap1.jpg (224KB - 424 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-20 11:52 AM (#599902 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I purchased the blue/green metallic single stage paint for this car yesterday so I can paint the firewall before the engine goes in. I also converted my white paint to an appropriate shade of off-white. After I got it home, the paint is close, but just a little too blue. Looks like I'll have to purchase a quart of yellow to adjust it to my liking. I may mix in a bit of white to lighten it up as well. This paint was quite expensive because of the amount of pearl that is included in it. I'm hoping I can get the whole car done with a single gallon. Since the inside of the trunk will be gray and the roof is white, I think I should be alright.

I also dropped off the heads to get the spring pressure tested. He left a message and said they were 250 lbs! I had to call him back to clarify. He said his machine could barely remove them, they were so strong. Must have been set up for an old blower motor. Looks like I won't be using those afterall. I'm thinking of building a set of 331 heads for it to bump the compression up to a true 10.4:1 instead.



(57NY Paint.jpg)



(57NY New Paint Comparison.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Paint.jpg (253KB - 421 downloads)
Attachments 57NY New Paint Comparison.jpg (90KB - 415 downloads)
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57burb
Posted 2020-06-20 1:52 PM (#599906 - in reply to #599902)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I really like that color as is, but it will look great a bit greener too.

There is no way a gallon of paint will cover the entire car. Even if you skip under hood, door jambs, trunk, dash, etc it still won't come close. Two gallons would be an absolute minimum, and that's for a color with good coverage. Pearlescent paint tends to be more translucent and is affected by the underlying base. Plus you need enough material to be able to rub it out and polish without going through. I would buy two gallons and be prepared to need a third, and maybe more than that.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-20 4:18 PM (#599910 - in reply to #599906)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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You may be right, but I don't believe that you would rub & polish a single stage paint. I believe you would typically just spray & leave it as long as you don't have runs or other issues.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-08-06 4:49 PM (#601740 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I've been doing the repairs to the roof to get it ready for new paint. I was hoping I could keep the headliner in it as it was. It had a couple of holes in it, but overall, not too bad for an original headliner. But I had to pound out a number of small dents in the roof so that has taken it's toll on the headliner. It's really amazing how many dents a roof can have in it. Oh well, at least the roof is straight now. Behold the Parade Green in all it's original glory! Except that I think my camera makes it look slightly more blue than it really is for some reason.

Note to self: Smack the upper trim in the forward direction from above to get it off (after the screws & all other trim are off of course).

Edited by Powerflite 2020-08-06 4:54 PM




(57NY PG Paint Under Roof Trim.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY PG Paint Under Roof Trim.jpg (149KB - 393 downloads)
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22mafeja
Posted 2020-08-07 1:14 AM (#601754 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: RE: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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I sometimes paint the first 1,5 layers with another color than the final. That is when I know I might have too little paint. Remember that a single stage
metallic can`t be sanded at all before rubbing , you go through at once.
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ToMopar
Posted 2020-08-07 6:44 AM (#601756 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes, that parade green it's a glory color. That's one of my favourites
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-08-07 12:56 PM (#601760 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I really like the color too, that's why I am going to try and match my paint a little closer to what it should be. By the time I get done matching, I may end up with quite a bit more paint, but if not, I will just purchase more and do the same with it.

I'm not usually very fond of psychiatrists, but I have to admit that when a panel needs some psychiatric help, a good shrink really comes in handy! When I first purchased the shrinking disc a couple years ago, I didn't really understand what it was doing and I couldn't seem to get it to work (partly because it requires the paint to be completely removed first. A little surface rust is OK, but paint doesn't work at all with it). But I have used it on this roof and it's working AMAZINGLY well. Very pleased with the results. This spot on my roof was oil canning pretty bad because of how the original dent stretched the metal, and I couldn't get it in line because it would just bounce back up. Enter super shrinking disc to the rescue! Run it on there with a little pressure and then cool with a wet rag, and magically, all the high spots shrink down, tightening the panel so it can be worked again. By shrinking the high spots, it actually flattens the variations in the metal as well. You can't tell from the picture, but this roof is just about perfectly smooth now. If I were to give it some even color, you wouldn't see a bit of waviness there at all. This thing is really amazing.



(57NY Psychiatric Help.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Psychiatric Help.jpg (167KB - 388 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-08-07 1:59 PM (#601761 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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This little aluminum bottle cap opener is the best tool for removing the drip rail molding without damaging it. Great little tool that works like a charm.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-08-07 4:21 PM




(Drip Rail Opener.jpg)



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Attachments Drip Rail Opener.jpg (154KB - 400 downloads)
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KcImperial
Posted 2020-08-07 4:13 PM (#601767 - in reply to #601761)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2020-08-07 12:59 PM

This little aluminum can opener is the best tool for removing the drip rail molding without damaging it. Great little tool that works like a charm.

that can opener looks like a great trick! I've tried and failed miserably to get those off in the past without spiraling them
will try one of these next time
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-08-07 4:23 PM (#601768 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I think its a bottle cap opener so I edited it accordingly. Start at both ends by prying the molding upwards with it. When you reach the main downturn, you should be able to just pop it off.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-08-09 1:54 PM (#601834 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got all the dents pulled out of the roof. There were a bunch of little dings in it everywhere as well as a number of larger dents. But my headliner now looks like Berlin after WWII. After I stripped the roof down, I found a small rust hole that had developed under the front trim so I'll need to fix that, but I ran out of Argon/CO2 so it'll have to wait 'till next week. But I went ahead and sealed the roof so it wouldn't get condensation on the bare steel. Good thing I did as this morning, it was covered with dew. Now that it is a uniform color, I found yet another ding in it that I had missed. The rear trough that the back window sits in has a number of small rust holes in it too, that need to be fixed. It seems to never end, but I'm a lot closer now to being able to finally put a rear window into it, which is my current goal. I was planning to paint the roof now, but I think I will just get it straight and primed and then wait to paint it until after the firewall is painted & the motor is installed. That'll save me from worrying about ruining it from welding & grinding in the future.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-08-09 2:12 PM




(57NY Roof Sealed.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Roof Sealed.jpg (195KB - 397 downloads)
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mogge65
Posted 2021-04-19 5:12 AM (#611220 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Any updates on this build?
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-04-19 2:03 PM (#611229 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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It's patiently waiting until I stop playing with others cars. The motor is waiting for the heads to be finished at the machine shop. They called me to tell me that there is a rust pitted section under the intake valve area that I need to go and inspect. Great, but I suspect they are making more out of it than it probably deserves....hopefully. I still haven't found the lower rear trim I need for a 2dr. I'll probably have to purchase a TIG and figure out how to weld the 4dr trim together to get what I need. At one point, I had convinced myself to change the color scheme to Turquoise/Parade Green, but then I changed back to my original plan of Parade Green/White.



(57NY Colors.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Colors.jpg (129KB - 275 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2021-04-20 1:54 AM (#611237 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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cant you just splice it? put a spacer between the two?

Hmm i grabbed a wagon trim, im sure its same as the sedan..
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ToMopar
Posted 2021-04-20 3:16 PM (#611250 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Both color combos are great, difficult to decide. You have to have another car to use the second combo.
Where are your heads,- nearby at a local machinist,- or at a specialised hemi guy?
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mikes2nd
Posted 2021-04-20 5:25 PM (#611252 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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youd be nuts not to take it all apart now and check cr@p like that.

thats bad... real bad
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22mafeja
Posted 2021-04-21 12:02 AM (#611256 - in reply to #611237)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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If you refer to the molding welding I also think it sometimes is better to connect the two parts with a tight guiding piece tapped inside the molding profile.
Of course it is not invincible but if patiently done it is decent imo. The tig welding of a molding and filing/sanding is something that requires plenty of practicing.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-04-21 9:00 PM (#611280 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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The heads are already apart, Mike, at the same machinist that i used to rebuild the 331 heads on my Savoy. He's really thorough and good, so I trust him, but my stuff is the only old hemi stuff he really sees so he doesn't specialize in them. I paid him to make the cutter to cut the spring seats in my 331 heads, so I have him do all of them. I am using '55 331 heads on this motor as well, to bump up the compression, so that's why I need the spring seats cut & the intake valves opened up to a larger size. After looking it over today, other than the destroyed guides that need to be replaced, I didn't see anything of real concern in there. I poked around in it too to see if there were any soft areas, and there weren't. It doesn't surprise me either because I had some '55 331 heads that were ported for blown dragster use with 2.2ish" intake valves, and they were widened out alot without cutting into the water jackets.

Also, I have spliced 4dr trim together on my '58 Firedome by using a stiff plate on the backside and sliding it into the groove of both pieces of trim. It does work, and is visibly appealing at 5 ft away from the car, but the parting line is still visible if you look at it closely, so it isn't ideal. If I can figure out a good process to weld them together, that would open up a lot of options and make it look much better.



(57NY PGreen Head Rust.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-04-29 7:50 PM (#611560 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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For continuity from before, I obviously didn't end up using the set of low mileage 392 race heads I had. I took the heads to a machine shop and had the static spring pressure measured on them, and it came out at a whopping 240lbs! He said it was at the limit of his tool to even test it. He removed one spring in the process and didn't want to put it back on! It's OK, because I won't be able to use it with that much pressure anyway. So that's why I resorted to spending the money to get these triple nickel 331 heads rebuilt instead. It's probably for the best anyway, because with the thicker head gasket of today, I calculate that a stock 392 head would only give a 9.4:1 compression ratio with '58 10:1 pistons. These 331 heads should bump that compression up to around 10.4:1, right where I want it. And the 331 heads already have hardened exhaust seats built into them. I'm not sure if the 392 heads have them or not.

I picked up the finished heads from the machine shop today. They look really good with the larger 2" stainless intakes in there. We ended up replacing all the guides with bronze versions and shaved the bottom of the stock 331 retainers to be able to get .5" of lift. I'm only going to run .465" of lift, but I want it capable of handling more in case I change the cam out later or swap the heads to a different motor. The stock 331 retainers have an odd cupped section at the bottom that causes issues with larger lifts, and there isn't any danger with cutting that cupped portion flat to be more like the 392 retainers. He also cut the spring seats out for the larger 392 style springs with the static pressure set to 110 lbs. These ?chevy? umbrella seals fit a lot better than the ones you get in a Fel-Pro 392 gasket kit. Should be good to go now, so I can finish the engine assembly.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-04-29 10:21 PM




(57NY 555 Heads New Valves.jpg)



(57NY 555 Heads New Springs.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-08-10 1:42 PM (#614143 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I have started putting the motor together again and cleaned up 4 sets of rocker assemblies by scrubbing them in gasoline. I was able to clean out the tubes quite easily, and the one set that came with the motor were already exceptionally clean, but the main oil passage in the rocker stand were a different matter. Those lines were plugged solid on all 4 sets. Usually I can just use a long pin to jamb the crud out of there, but not on these. It's packed in there pretty tight. I even had a hard time drilling out what I could reach with a drill bit. It took a lot of force to penetrate it. The drill bit worked, but was too short to reach all of it so I ordered a couple of really long 5/32" drills to clean them out. It requires at least a 6" long drill to reach it all. It's odd that this is the first time I have run across this issue. I guess I got lucky on the other motors.



(392Hemi Rocker Oil Passage.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2021-08-10 2:40 PM (#614145 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: RE: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Let them soak for a few days in a bin of Simple Green. Yes, the organic non-toxic stuff. That will clean baked-in grime better than anything else I have tried.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-08-21 9:17 PM (#614366 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I've used that stuff before and wasn't very impressed. But I didn't soak it for a full day either. I received the extra long drills and just drilled them out. They are overkill at 12" long, but were cheap enough so it didn't matter. Hopefully, they'll come in handy for other uses as well. That stuff was really caked in there, but the drills worked great on them.



(57NY 392 hemi Long Drill.jpg)



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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2021-10-13 3:46 PM (#615848 - in reply to #575445)
Subject: RE: Turquoise 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2018-12-18 11:25 AM

Yes, a bolt-on from Scarebird. It requires 15" wheels. With power brakes, I like to run a remote-fill master. I can no longer purchase the master shown on my car in the picture, so I will try to use one from a 1990 Mitsubishi FUSO truck that has a 1.125" bore size. It's a 4-bolt master like the Chrysler units, but the mounting holes have to be moved outward a little to make it work. I'm not sure yet how it will turn out, but I'm sure I can get it to work.

Hey Nathan, it’s been a while since I’ve been able to work on my car as I put it in storage due to garage size constraints and then I moved to a home with a larger garage (and space to build a 30x40 shop), but I’m busy remodeling the kitchen and master bathroom.
I need to add disc brakes to my car, but I contacted scarebird and they said they don’t make a kit or caliper plates for it. I don’t want to change the spindles. What parts did you get from them for the conversion?
Regarding the master, the best option I can find is the one in the photo, with an adapter plate and the reservoir removed and replaced with hose fittings for a remote reservoir. I don’t see how the master you selected, with the outlets facing the engine, will work with a hemi engine. As you know it’s a very tight fit.
Thanks



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-10-13 4:22 PM (#615849 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nice to see you working on it again. It would be cool if you could bring it to Fall Fling in 2 weeks.

First, Scarebird doesn't have a clue that their '57-'59 Plymouth disc kit works on the DeSoto & Chrysler as well. I've told them many times, but they refuse to acknowledge it. Just get that one. Unfortunately, they no longer carry their large caliper design that uses standard parts. Now you have to either use a small caliper that likely isn't good enough for your heavy car, or opt for their custom large piston caliper that they make to use with 14" wheels. I'm not sure if AAJ has anything bigger for 15" wheels on these cars, or just the standard 14" kit.

The Mitsubishi master that I chose has the ports going downward. The rear port isn't a problem as it should clear behind the cover, but the front port is more of an issue. My feeling is that you should be able to bend the line by hand to gain a little more clearance. You don't need very much extra to make it work as this master is a lot smaller on the end than most are. The bends I have in it are from using a tubing bender which restricts the bend radius to be larger. Bending it by hand after it is made should give you a tighter bend that would work well. If that doesn't work, you can try angling up the master with thin spacers on the bottom of it to gain some clearance. Using the mopar aluminum master would be better, but it requires an adapter and I don't know where to obtain the remote fittings for it that are any good. You might have to make them custom to make it work. It also requires a much longer push rod than the stock one due to the adapter & deeper setting. You have to weld a new length to it to make it work. Whereas, you can use the stock adjustable pushrod with this Mitsu master.

By the way, I am using this master on my '58 Fireflite with power brakes and it works really well. As long as you can get the clearance you need, it's a great setup for the brakes on the car.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-10-13 4:31 PM




(57NY Brakes Close.jpg)



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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2021-10-13 8:45 PM (#615861 - in reply to #615849)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I sent a message to AAJ earlier today. I’ll let you know the response and determine the best setup. I don’t think that large lug on the engine side of the master shown will clear the valve cover. As shown in the photo, the clearance for the master I installed years ago is minimal at best, and has no lug. I’ve never been happy with it that tight. I also had to notch the plug wire cover to to clear the reservoir. I believe on mikes2nd car, he used a 79 Dodge truck master, with the reservoir removed and remote fittings added. I left a message on his post to get additional information. Possibly the fill holes could be tapped an 90 degree fittings added. I’ll have to determine bore size also. The dorman I posted is 1.032 bore.
I don’t think my car will be ready in two weeks for the show, I’m still determining what parts to order. Are you taking one of your fleet of NewYorkers? I might still go without my car.



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1960fury
Posted 2021-10-13 9:15 PM (#615862 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks great, but I personally would have tapped (if needed) the MC and reservoirs to run steel lines.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-10-14 1:03 PM (#615879 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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If I can get my wife to help me sell some stuff, I'll take my '70 Satellite wagon and park in the swap section. If not, I'll probably bring my '58 Fireflite.

That lug isn't as big as it seems from the picture, and the diameter of the master is smaller than you might think. Pardon the dust on it, but comparing it to the master I have on my black/white New Yorker, the Mitsu master is smaller in diameter & about 1" shorter, partially due to not having to use an adapter. From the pictures, it looks like the lines going downward won't be a problem, and the front lug will clear everything, but will be too close to the wire cover to just leave it. So it would likely require some clearancing on the wire cover to make it work, as you suspected. Looking at my Gold New Yorker, it appears to be even worse as I think it's motor sits higher for some reason. One possible solution to this would be to turn the master upside down. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that, and I will try it out once I get this New Yorker ready to go. The only issue I can think of is it might be more difficult to bleed it out due to any trapped air in that upward region. But worst case, you should be able to overcome that with a power bleeder.

Another idea would be to mount the master from the inside of the car, instead of from the outside. If you used some spacers with it, you could potentially move the master 1" back, possibly creating enough clearance to miss the wire cover completely. You would need to shorten your pushrod quite a bit, but other than that, I don't see a problem with the idea. And I just measured it out. If you pull back this Mitsu master into the car by 1", it will then completely clear the valve cover & wire cover. Then you could pull the valve cover off without having to remove the master fist. I like that idea, so I think that's what I will try to do instead.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-10-14 8:12 PM




(57NY Master Front.jpg)



(57NY Master Top.jpg)



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22mafeja
Posted 2021-10-15 12:34 AM (#615899 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: RE: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe


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It would be really time saving to make a nice slope on the wire cover compared to everything else you mentioned...I wouldn`t hesitate..
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2021-10-22 12:26 PM (#616116 - in reply to #615879)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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The master shown in the photos is a pretty good fit, with new/good motor mounts will be fine. I found a new problem with the rear brakes, right rear drum won’t turn by hand, no matter ho much I turn the adjuster. A few years back when I rebuilt the rear brakes I could not find new return springs, so I used the old ones. I’m sure one is broken. I found a rear brake kit now, and will install when it arrives. Turns out my new neighbor is a mopar guy, and his buddy has a 1960 D500 with stock brakes. He suggested that the residual pressure valves in my master are causing the brakes to drag, and causing the fade when they get hot. I will try removing them after I redo the rear brakes. When I get them working again I’ll post an update on my car’s thread, rather than sidetracking your thread.
I won’t be able to make it to the car show because I need to work over the weekend.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-10-22 12:43 PM (#616118 - in reply to #572778)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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The residual pressure valve is intended to be used with drum brakes. So that's what it's for, and shouldn't be causing any issue. The only time you have an issue with a residual pressure valve is if it is used with disk brakes. However, I have found that the original master doesn't have much of a residual pressure valve in it, if at all. So that's not going to be the cause of any of your issues. Broken springs, bad adjusters, or loose hold down clips are likely the problem.
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1960fury
Posted 2021-10-22 5:21 PM (#616126 - in reply to #616118)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2021-10-22 12:43 PM

The residual pressure valve is intended to be used with drum brakes. So that's what it's for, and shouldn't be causing any issue. The only time you have an issue with a residual pressure valve is if it is used with disk brakes. However, I have found that the original master doesn't have much of a residual pressure valve in it, if at all. So that's not going to be the cause of any of your issues. Broken springs, bad adjusters, or loose hold down clips are likely the problem.


That makes sense, since all OE drum brake FLs I drove needed pumping after w/o brake action for a while. So these things were prone to failure. That said, I would NEVER run a MC with a drum brake residual valve still in place with disks, working or not. Just the thought would make nervous.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2021-10-27 8:39 PM (#616336 - in reply to #616118)
Subject: Re: Parade Green 57 New Yorker Coupe



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I agree with you Nathan regarding the residual valves not being the issue. The exploded view of the original single master in the repair manual shows a valve in it, although it doesn’t include a description or specs for it. I have all new brake parts for the rear in shipping, I’ll check back after I get free day to install and test drive.
Steve
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