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SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 Now viewing page 2 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | I posted this in the wrong thread instead of here. Marc Everard, you really have no much idea how many hours and hundred of threads took the AJJ brakes discussion and pretty much everybody had a different result. Guys installing the exactly same "working parts combination set up" in the same car and model year, didn't work for others, and so on... They are different calipers, it is one for 15" rim out of a Dodge Durango truck that I think is going to work, but again changing 5 rims and tires could be a fortune in Australia. Look for double piston calipers in 14" rim. look at this video... | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Denis Im sorry, but I have no clue what you are trying to say? Are you saying, "Work it out for yourself perhaps, as everybody gets a different result??" I already have all the parts I require to do the SSBC 4 piston calipers (same as the video) and 11.25" rotor front brake conversion and what I didnt have, Ive made, as noted in this thread (except a new push rod). Just waiting on a decent 2 stage flaring tool to arrive so I can make new lines properly and route them the way I want and get going on the conversion.. It works with my original 14" wheels but Im using bigger wheels anyway so not really an issue. Ive seen that video a few times, kind of what made me think its not so hard and to have a go myself. Its the booster and master which are more the issue in my case. Ive done a ton of research and asked the clever and experienced people here for their opinions and thoughts for which Im very grateful for. I think I am now on the right track and have (I hope) all that I need to get this job done correctly the first time, wishful thinking maybe, we will see I guess, but Ill have a go. Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-13 11:28 PM | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Pretty pissed about SSBC and there "All American" BS I should post this on their Facebook page! | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | meaning that they are dozen if not hundred of questions regarding why the AJJ brake does not work or the wheels won't lock. The reason is pretty simple, but some people refuse to believe the facts. I'm very disappointed of SSBC , they clearly stated that everything is made in the USA. I just posted the question on their facebook page but questions are edited by them.. However, we are just a few people who care about USA made parts, when I posted a new Fel-pro gasket set with several China parts on these forums, I had only people yelling at me on that matter. "Get over it" attitude in general.. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | hemidenis - 2018-12-15 12:26 PM meaning that they are dozen if not hundred of questions regarding why the AJJ brake does not work or the wheels won't lock. The reason is pretty simple, but some people refuse to believe the facts. when I posted a new Fel-pro gasket set with several China parts on these forums, I had only people yelling at me on that matter. "Get over it" attitude in general.. Ahhh, ok. I dismissed using their kits when they would not elaborate on any question I asked them and would not give me any straight answers. Im happy I got the SSBC kit instead for such a good price (relatively) Would have preferred Wilwood but the expense is insane. Just terribly disappointing to see the China stamp, not just because its made in China but because its advertised as "made in America". | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | China doesn't necessary mean that the parts are crap, they have really good craftsmen there, BUT - there's a high possibility that the parts are crap, mainly because the buyer didn't want to pay the price for good quality (that would most probably resulted in a price so high that the parts could have been produced in USA). I do still believe that parts supplier with a high quality standard (for instance Fel-Pro) requests a high quality from a Chinese sub-supplier. Recently bough some Raybestos wheel cylinders for a friend (made in China) - I demounted them and checked everything and found absolutely nothing to complain about - the cylinders had a snug fit and the lined up with the bolt holes. About vented discs, we have noticed several cases of rusted out "vanes" that have resulted in disc separation, especially on heavy cars (Caddy for instance). Mind that those cars have been driven during the winter season with salt slush. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-14 9:47 PM Would have preferred Wilwood but the expense is insane. Insane? How much is the SSBC kit? | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | wizard - 2018-12-15 4:50 AM About vented discs, we have noticed several cases of rusted out "vanes" that have resulted in disc separation, especially on heavy cars (Caddy for instance). Mind that those cars have been driven during the winter season with salt slush. Wilwood has coated/galvanized vanes. Can't believe people are making shortcuts and are cheap when it comes to the braking system. So, how much more expensive are the American-made Wilwood parts? | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-15 7:20 AM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Ouch, $4000 and even $3000 is painful. Is the import taxes the reason? Here in Sweden we must pay a 25% VAT on parts AND shipping costs. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 7:17 AM The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. I didn't check, but this is what I remember and that is basically all you need, if you are willing to fabricate a little: 2x $120 4 piston calipers = $240 2x $80 rotor hats= $160 2x $100 discs/rotor bolts $200 Flat stock 7075 Aluminum& 4 Wilwood cynch nuts= @ $50 Braided hose & fittings= @ $100 Longer wheel studs= $40 1.1/8" dual MC= $60 makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway. I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago. I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China. Edited by 1960fury 2018-12-15 6:36 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9666 Location: So. Cal | For comparison, the Scarebird kit cssts me less than $400 with all the fab work done, has the same size rotors as the Wilwood, stops very well, but is heavier. I'm happy with it. I don't really notice the weight, I'm not canyon carving with the car anyway and I haven't had any issues with uneven brake wear either. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Part of my problem was that Wilwood did not reply to any of my emails regarding purchasing and shipping. Very unhelpful actually, as were most of their resellers. Even Wilwood resellers her in Australia were unhelpful and not interested in selling quoted parts, just kits and since there is no kit listed, they didnt want to know as it may have required some mental effort which is just too much to ask! The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax and requires a lot more work, (and wheels and tyres) some of which may not be that easy to do or have done with what I have access to. I understand you say "simple fabrication" required, but there are no details of what that means. I dont want to lose the ability to use my standard wheels either. For $1500 AU I got the SSBC with 4 piston fixed calipers and everything I needed (I think) only with the extension housing and push rod that I need to make but that was only because of my booster. I didnt have to pay taxes as although they were new, were classed as used car parts from a private seller, and I wasnt charged any tax. Yes, Wilwood would be much nicer to have. Yes, they may work a lot better. Yes, they give you much more cred. Yes, Id like to have them. Yes, they look cool. But a few unknowns and extra expense of the Wilwood put them out of the picture as were ALL of the kits if I had to pay full retail. Could not afford to pay full retail for any of the kits. Hence why I ended up with SSBC as an "opportunistic" purchase at a cheap price with the ability to use my standard wheels. Maybe not the best of the bunch, but in the top two I reckon. Weight is no issue to me as shes a cruiser anyway. See how it pans out soon I guess. Thanks for all your advice and help, its really appreciated and has helped a lot. Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-15 5:12 PM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM I understand you say "simple fabrication" required, but there are no details of what that means. It is only the caliper bracket. All the rest, except a simple pushrod mod/plumbing, that you will have to do anyway, bolts on. The bracket is only a flat piece of aluminum or steel, if you don't care about unsprung weight. The aluminum rotor hats with the part # I listed in another thread are like made for 57+ FL cars. Just measure and cut and drill some holes into a flat piece of metal, that bolts directly to the FL spindle and positions the calipers perfectly. Another plus, you keep your OE hubs. One drawback is the Wilwood rotor hats, that slip over the OE hubs, move your wheels 1/4" out per side, but very likely the SSBC hub/rotor assy change the suspension geometry more that 1/4". Another minus I have to mention is, to bleed the wheel cylinders you have to pull the wheels. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax Speedway has most of the parts, shipping to Germany they quoted $56 early this year. So if the parts and shipping are around $900, how much tax do you have to pay in Australia?! | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | Powerflite - 2018-12-15 5:07 PM For comparison, the Scarebird kit cssts me less than $400 with all the fab work done, has the same size rotors as the Wilwood, 12.19" ? | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | Marc, only people who live overseas know the shipping cost and sometimes customs cost. Please keep us posted of the solution. If i install disc brakes is going to be the one you have for the simple reason of rims swap cost. China can make good things, but it also put formaldehyde in flooring which is a cancerous substance, Styrofoam in dogs food as a filler, lead paint in kids toys, the car parts parts disintegrate in a few moths and so on. How i supposed to know if their parts are good? If my valve seals in My fel-pro kit failed in two moths who is going to replace them? A good piece of rubber and a crap one looks identical, so I'm not trusting my brakes to them. At least not the piston or rubber components. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | 1960fury - 2018-12-16 9:35 AM 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax Speedway has most of the parts, shipping to Germany they quoted $56 early this year. So if the parts and shipping are around $900, how much tax do you have to pay in Australia?! I was quoted $1100 USD for shipping from US to AU. Tax is 10% but thats on the total including shipping. Thats why I jumped at the SSBC for $1100 USD landed (about $1500) I organised the shipping from here and the best I could get was about $750 AUD | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | In Argentina the tax is 50%, yes five zero. That is why people do not deal with FL cars that much down there. Go and figure why I don't want to send something over that I can't use. Germany has similar crazy customs laws. Your brake set up will cost me $3000.00 but the time it is siting on my work bench. Edited by hemidenis 2018-12-16 4:19 PM | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | In case anyone is interested..... I have removed it and will use the external Wilwood that I bought. That would be far easier to remove if I decide to fit a disc rear as well.
I was also really not impressed with the cheapo, no name bearings that just look rubbish. I should have realised this straight away when you see bearings all thrown into a bag and not sealed and boxed separately. When I checked these a little more closely, are very poor quality with many small dents and marks, just poorly made, even the heat treatment is still evident in places where the grinding of the races has not been cleaned up. I can honestly say, I would not use these bearing on a trailer much less my car, they would not last long at all. I replaced the lot with quality Japanese bearings and seals today. Thankfully, even the best quality bearings are cheap (standar Ford bearings and seals BTW) And the disc rotors are 65-67 Mustang
So far, its really not turning out to be the "American Made Quality" I was hoping (and paying) for with a few critical parts less than acceptable and made in China!! Although it will be when Im finished but at extra expense. Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-18 3:19 AM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9666 Location: So. Cal | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-18 12:11 AM ...On closer inspection of the master cylinder port, guess what??? I have removed it and will use the external Wilwood that I bought. That would be far easier to remove if I decide to fit a disc rear as well. I disagree with that statement. Removing the valve fitted in the master doesn't require any changes to your lines. Removing the external version is a lot more trouble. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Maybe in some cases but Ive accommodated that.
Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-18 8:09 PM | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Ahhhhh, thats better | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Looks really nice now Marc! | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Well................. Darn it, Im gutted
Now what Ive emailed SSBC to ask if I can buy the balance of parts from the A154-4 kit to make this kit work. Not overly optimistic of a reply. Does anyone know how long they are closed for the holidays, cant see anything on their website?
Would the same adapter plate with the correct 4 mounting holes work? Im guessing yes. Unfortunately in my disgust, I reassembled everything and forgot the measure the four bolt locations. Would anyone know what the measurment for the hole locations are?
Oh....and Cheers and merry xmas to all
Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-23 11:05 PM | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | I've made a such an adapter for my own discbrake conversion. Started out using the '64 spindle and later made one for the earlier drumbrake spindles. Based on the lasercut-drawing I made at the time, these should be the center-to-center bolt distances; Horizontally the boltspacing is about 78,392 mm Vertically the boltspacing is 69,697 mm | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9903 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-23 10:35 PMAs it turns out, the kit I bought is an A154 and not A154-4 as advertised by the seller. The kit is for 65-70 C body. Now what Ive emailed SSBC to ask if I can buy the balance of parts from the A154-4 kit to make this kit work. Not overly optimistic of a reply. Does anyone know how long they are closed for the holidays, cant see anything on their website?. Would the same adapter plate with the correct 4 mounting holes work? I wonder how close your 60 New Yorker spindle bolt spacing is to my 56 Windsor brakes on my 56 Dodge D500? If identical, AAJ has brackets that work with either 11" or 11.75" rotors. Yours/mine: Edited by 56D500boy 2018-12-24 4:54 PM | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | BigBlockMopar - 2018-12-25 6:16 AM I've made a such an adapter for my own discbrake conversion. Started out using the '64 spindle and later made one for the earlier drumbrake spindles. Based on the lasercut-drawing I made at the time, these should be the center-to-center bolt distances; Horizontally the boltspacing is about 78,392 mm Vertically the boltspacing is 69,697 mm Thank you so much, thats extremely helpful So thats about 3 1/16 X 2 3/4 From that dimension there is not enough metal to re-drill and tap the plates Ive got. Im wondering if I can rotate the plates to get in a location to redrill and tap the holes. Not sure of where it will relocate the caliper too and if there will be clearance. Will have to check it out some more? Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-27 12:42 AM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's confirmed Marc! If you can use the oem bolts, then you don't need to tap, oem bolts has nuts and lock washer. (IMG_2952-rez.jpg) (IMG_2954-rez.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_2952-rez.jpg (229KB - 365 downloads) IMG_2954-rez.jpg (177KB - 360 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle. Happy Restoring! Dieter | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-26 3:37 PM I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle. Happy Restoring! Dieter And another option... costs an arm and a leg Magnum Force Early Chrysler Dodge DeSoto Plymouth front brake kit for stock drum brake spindle (57-64): USD 1695.- at least (no option) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8tO-6BWEFg http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/shop/item.aspx?itemid=166 | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | wizard - 2018-12-28 12:24 AM That's confirmed Marc! If you can use the oem bolts, then you don't need to tap, oem bolts has nuts and lock washer. Wow, in all my years, Ive never seen a caliper with a fractional display! | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-28 12:37 AM I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle. Happy Restoring! Dieter Unfortunately the plates I have, to put the holes in the correct place would have one in fresh air But yes, I could use it as a template for making new plates :-) | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-28 12:54 AM di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-26 3:37 PM I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle. Happy Restoring! Dieter And another option... costs an arm and a leg Magnum Force Early Chrysler Dodge DeSoto Plymouth front brake kit for stock drum brake spindle (57-64): USD 1695.- at least (no option) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8tO-6BWEFg http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/shop/item.aspx?itemid=166 This would cost roughly $4400 landed here. thats why I did not look into them any further. Pretty slick install though, be awesome to have but just cant do it...
Edited by 1coolbanana 2018-12-27 8:02 PM | ||
hemidenis |
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Expert Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia | wrong kit listed by the seller? darn nobody can expect such a bad luck... | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | hemidenis - 2018-12-28 1:05 PM wrong kit listed by the seller? darn nobody can expect such a bad luck... Welcome to my world | ||
CrAzYMoPaRGuY |
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Veteran Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage.... | 1960fury - 2018-12-15 1:23 PM 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 7:17 AM The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. I didn't check, but this is what I remember and that is basically all you need, if you are willing to fabricate a little: 2x $120 4 piston calipers = $240 2x $80 rotor hats= $160 2x $100 discs/rotor bolts $200 Flat stock 7075 Aluminum& 4 Wilwood cynch nuts= @ $50 Braided hose & fittings= @ $100 Longer wheel studs= $40 1.1/8" dual MC= $60 makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway. I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago. I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China. I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars. I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | 1coolbanana - 2018-12-28 1:56 AM wizard - 2018-12-28 12:24 AM That's confirmed Marc! If you can use the oem bolts, then you don't need to tap, oem bolts has nuts and lock washer. Wow, in all my years, Ive never seen a caliper with a fractional display! I bought it 3 years ago Marc, it's very convenient and it wasn't very expensive either. in/mm/fraction My one is an Accusize, most probably made in a yellow country | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-28 6:39 PM 1960fury - 2018-12-15 1:23 PM 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 7:17 AM The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. I didn't check, but this is what I remember and that is basically all you need, if you are willing to fabricate a little: 2x $120 4 piston calipers = $240 2x $80 rotor hats= $160 2x $100 discs/rotor bolts $200 Flat stock 7075 Aluminum& 4 Wilwood cynch nuts= @ $50 Braided hose & fittings= @ $100 Longer wheel studs= $40 1.1/8" dual MC= $60 makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway. I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago. I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China. I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars. I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf z-140-14227 = $1850. Cheaper? Edited by 1960fury 2018-12-29 8:44 AM | ||
CrAzYMoPaRGuY |
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Veteran Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage.... | 1960fury - 2018-12-29 8:44 AM CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-28 6:39 PM 1960fury - 2018-12-15 1:23 PM 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 7:17 AM The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. I didn't check, but this is what I remember and that is basically all you need, if you are willing to fabricate a little: 2x $120 4 piston calipers = $240 2x $80 rotor hats= $160 2x $100 discs/rotor bolts $200 Flat stock 7075 Aluminum& 4 Wilwood cynch nuts= @ $50 Braided hose & fittings= @ $100 Longer wheel studs= $40 1.1/8" dual MC= $60 makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway. I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago. I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China. I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars. I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf z-140-14227 = $1850. Cheaper? That's my point. A B-body kit can be bought for under $700. Has everything in that kit except the bracket, and you don't get the brackets in that kit!!!! That kit is crazy priced, | ||
CrAzYMoPaRGuY |
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Veteran Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage.... | Grab a B body kit..... not the kit listed for the 57/58!!! lol Toss the brackets it comes with, keep the knurled nuts. I'll be finding out soon, it's exactly what I'm doing. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-29 1:19 PM 1960fury - 2018-12-29 8:44 AM CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-28 6:39 PM 1960fury - 2018-12-15 1:23 PM 1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 7:17 AM The cost to me, here in Australia, landed with tax SSBC just under $3000 AU Wilwood nearly $4000 AU But I paid $1500 AU landed for the SSBC from a guy on FB Mopar group who bought them for the wrong car. Thats why I got them as they appear better than all the others Ive looked into except Wilwood which are next level but just could not afford. I hardly see rain, snow and salt, doesnt exist :-) Ill probably get the rotors coated anyway just for appearance and rust proofing. I didn't check, but this is what I remember and that is basically all you need, if you are willing to fabricate a little: 2x $120 4 piston calipers = $240 2x $80 rotor hats= $160 2x $100 discs/rotor bolts $200 Flat stock 7075 Aluminum& 4 Wilwood cynch nuts= @ $50 Braided hose & fittings= @ $100 Longer wheel studs= $40 1.1/8" dual MC= $60 makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway. I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago. I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China. I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars. I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf z-140-14227 = $1850. Cheaper? That's my point. A B-body kit can be bought for under $700. Has everything in that kit except the bracket, and you don't get the brackets in that kit!!!! That kit is crazy priced, Aah....okay, that was the subject of another brake thread years ago, will the B-body hubs fit 57-61s. IIRC the thread never got an answer. | ||
CrAzYMoPaRGuY |
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Veteran Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage.... | I believe B body hubs are identical to the 58 except might have to move caliper over 1/32 to 1/16th of an inch, but the kit comes with spacers. I will know soon! lol | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | wizard - 2018-12-28 12:24 AM That's confirmed Marc! If you can use the oem bolts, then you don't need to tap, oem bolts has nuts and lock washer. Just doing the CAD for the plates. Can you tell me what size the bolt holes are please? Thanks | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Yep, the holes are for 7/16" bolts, passing through. 11,13mm | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | wizard - 2019-01-03 6:08 PM Yep, the holes are for 7/16" bolts, passing through. 11,13mm Many thanks. Ill finish the CAD and post it here in case anyone needs it. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | Forgot to ask, would you know the drum brake backing plate assembly thickness? The total between the spindle face to under the head of the mounting bolt with the complete drum assembly? The adaptor plates will be 1/2" so wondering whether I need to counterbore to use the same OEM bolts. Thanks | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Sorry mate, I dont have an extra shield/backing plate, so I can't help you with an exact measure, but I estimate the thickness to 1/8" (3 mm) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Marc, the bolts are 7/16" UNF - the heads are approximately 7,5mm high, so if you countersink the heads 7,5 mm, there will be 5,2mm left in material thickness and that should work as strenght. The bolts protrudes just a couple of mm on the back side (nut and lock washer on two, crown nuts and cotter pins on the bolts holding the steering arm). So, it seems that even if you contersink the bolt heads, you would need new bolts, slightly longer. Or, drill and tap the plate 7/16" UNF and use the original bolts mounted from the back side instead - in that case with strong LocTite or perhaps two set screws that secures the steering arm bolts. | ||
1coolbanana |
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Veteran Posts: 267 Location: Sydney | This is the drawing for anyone that might need it or find it usefull to suit the 4 piston calipers sold by SSBC A62 and A63 to suit 11.25 rotors. The 0.390 holes are the tapping size for the 7/16 UNF caliper mount bolts, cetre to centre distance is 2.750". The adapter plate is 1/2" steel plate. If anyone needs the CAD file or the STL file to have these CNC'd, just ask. Edited by 1coolbanana 2019-01-03 10:52 PM | ||
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