|
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | Is it possible to lift the engine a couple inches while in the car. I needed to change my oil pan and got all the bolts out but it is hitting on the main cross member in the front. I have a 1958 Chrysler Saratoga with a 331 in the car now. If it can be done can I lift with a floor jack and where would I place it. Thanks Jerry |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| not on the oil pan, a chain up top should work if you unhook everything else(trans, hoses, etc) |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | Are you saying hook it up to a carburetor pull plate and disconnect the transmission?? Sorry I have never lifted or removed and engine so I have to ask lots of question. Do you unscrew the mounting bolt and disconnect the exhaust???Thanks Jerry
Edited by albjerryg 2019-01-03 9:26 PM
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| youll need to get a lift/hoist on the top of the engine some way, typically but intake manifold or bolts on the heads/side of blocks.
If you are going two inches? im not sure how much firewall space you have but you could "tilt" the engine. You are practically going to have the engine completely unhooked anyways.
I am not sure about lifting the exhaust two inches but you could probably swing that if your not tilting.
Is there two inches of clearance on the trans to the trans tunnel? If no then your unhooking exhaust and everything. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | OK thanks for the information I will give it a try. Jerry |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | I wonder if some one make a lower profile oil pan that would fit without pulling the engine because I can get this pan off without pulling the engine but then I have to put something back in it's place. Any suggestions. Thanks Jerry |
|
| |
|
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
  
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Before doing anything at all, buy or download the fsm and read up on the subject at hand. If you do that, a lot of mistakes will be avoided.
It's totally ok to use a bottle jack and lift under the oil pan, BUT the weight should be evenly distributed with a thick plate of plywood under the oil pan.
 (Namnllls.png)
Attachments
----------------
 Namnllls.png (71KB - 143 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1740
Location: Alaska | I had to laugh because this brings back a memory of not doing it right. I was working in a shop in the early 70s and a buddy was removing the oil pan on a Pontiac . We didn't have an engine hoist so he used a floor jack and a 4 by 4 on the front pulley to lift the engine. He was under the car using both hands to remove the pan when the jack slipped.There he was with most of his fingers of both hands stuck between the block and the pan. As quickly as we could, we jacked the engine up and freed him, no broken fingers but scrapes and bruises. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yes you can lift it up by 2" . disconnect both front motor mounts , possibly exhaust and center link . piece of plywood double 1/2" or single 3/4 , 8"x8" or so . use an old towel or rags @ 1/2" on top
of plywood for cushion . jack it up 2" or so and block between each motor mount 2" or so . i've done this time after time on various makes and motors with NO damage , my dart being the last time
i did it (64, 383 center sump pan). never even scratched the pan paint ----------------------------------------------later |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | 60/61 bb require lifting the engine too. Never had to use a hoist and chain. Just loosen the motor mounts, etc and lift it from the ground with a car jack and appropriate length piece of wood. You will find a safe location were you can place it, of course not the oil pan 
Edited by 1960fury 2019-01-04 3:12 PM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | OK thanks to all for the good advice. Jerry |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | I saw where Wizard suggested that I download the FSM? Where is the site to download the FSM? I keep looking at the issue of not being able to remo9ve the oil pan because the yoke in the front wont allow the pan to drop out seems dumb. Has anyone suggested or remove say 12" of the yoke so the pan can drop out and replace it with a bolt on cross piece or am just old and dumb? Thanks for any response.Jerry |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | Manuals are here
http://www.jholst.net/300resource/index.php
Edited by finsruskw 2019-01-05 11:32 AM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | I was wondering if anyone had though of cutting out a section of the yoke to allow the oil pan to drop out in the front and than replacing it with a bolt on replacement. That way anytime you need to get to the pan it would be accessible. I have a picture of the yoke mine is not an I beam it is a 3" square tubing. Is this a dumb idea???Thanks Jerry
 (Scan008.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
Scan008.jpg (123KB - 139 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | If you plan on doing some engine work once a month it could be worth it 
Joke aside, pulling the oil pan with the engine in place happens perhaps once or twice in the life span of those cars, so, no - don't tamper with the yoke or cross beam. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | albjerryg - 2019-01-06 9:19 AM
Is this a dumb idea???Thanks Jerry
YES |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | I* though it was a dumb idea? But I would like to explain why I even thought of doing that. I work alone and I am older(75) and I have the basic equipment not a car lift. So I am always looking for the easiest way for me to do things. I figure for me to lift the engine a few inches, disconnecting the motor mount and transmission mounts and the exhaust and then connecting up to chain lift the engine will take me all day. Then if I have to pull the engine even higher to disconnect the transmission and the rest would be 2 or 3 days. For me to cut the 3" beam and make a replacement bolt in would take 1 day. It is probably not logical but it is why I thought of it.Jerry
Edited by albjerryg 2019-01-06 11:24 AM
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7393
Location: northern germany | What Wizard said. You usually need to pull the oil pan only once in a lifetime. I own my car for over 30 years and only had to pull it once. Also the notching will weaken the frame and make it more flexible. Remember it is a ladder frame and the notching of any crossbeam will weaken the whole strukture, from front to back. The result could be an unsafer car and more squeaks and rattles. They introduced the unibody not without a reason.
Just reread your post. You plan to cut the main crossmember completly and make it removeable?! Well, disregard my initial statement, and insert VERY stupid idea. If you cut it completly you destroy your frame or maybe even the whole body structure. This is the MAIN beam and it is not without a reason that big. You can't cut it of and retain the same rigidity by bolting it back on. Chances are the frame will start to distort just when you cut it (certainly eventually later, on the road) and there is no way to fix that.
Edited by 1960fury 2019-01-06 11:56 AM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: lafayette,La. | OK not going to do that. Jerry |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 371
| After doing many in the vehicle oil pan removals to me the easiest option is pull the engine. The fighting and banging will equal the time to pull and put back in. Plus with it out you can take care of any leaks and stuff. Do not cut frame rail anywhere, if it can be avoided, period let alone the engine cross member. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | looks to be goin the way of rocket science -------------------------------------------------later |
|
| |
lifting the engine 2"
