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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim | Message format |
582drht |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Murray Bridge, South Australia | Just about to remove the doors on the 58 HT the hinge bolts seem easy to get to but the strap that prevents the door from travelling further than Desoto wanted seems that the attachments are spot weld in place in the door and the body frame. There is a pin on the frame side, I guess we cut, grind and remove pin? Any one done this before? ( dumb question I know ) Thanks | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | yes grind the top off, no choice. Carfully | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9654 Location: So. Cal | Yeah, it's a pain in the neck. I wish there were another, better way. You also will likely have to pry up on the openings a little to get it out. I had to at least. Not sure what I am going to use to put it back together yet. | ||
57DODGECONV |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 854 | There is a seller on EBay that sells a 2 piece rivet Looking screw that is Designed to replace this and looks very close to original. | ||
582drht |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Murray Bridge, South Australia | Thanks guys, well I gently ground it out with a battery grinder and then with a punch from the top and copper mallet got it to slide down and out easily. But I tell you what removing the glass and all internals is a nightmare!!! but done now. Time to do the other door, trunk lid and send them off for dipping to remove all rust and gunk. The hood went in last week and should be back next week. AU$330 just to dip the hood. Then its windscreens. and every thing else and the body gets dipped as well. When it comes back it will go on the rotisserie I welded up and then new rocker panels and whatever else we find needs repairing. | ||
582drht |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Murray Bridge, South Australia | Any chance that you know the listing heading for theose pins? | ||
57DODGECONV |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 854 | If you do s EBay search for 1950s 1960s Mopar Door Limiting arm or Door check strap- river kit you will see it. | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | |||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | 582drht - 2019-01-19 3:38 PM Thanks guys, t I tell you what removing the glass and all internals is a nightmare!!! but done now.
everythings on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sorlPtAIlSs
Edited by mikes2nd 2019-01-19 10:45 PM | ||
582drht |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Murray Bridge, South Australia | Thanks Old Ray. | ||
582drht |
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Veteran Posts: 122 Location: Murray Bridge, South Australia | Thanks Mike | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | After looking at those on eBay, I think a Threaded Rivet Nut with the right OD, and a screw with a flat washer would work ? (51FHiIivfCL__SL1000_.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 51FHiIivfCL__SL1000_.jpg (46KB - 155 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9654 Location: So. Cal | You can also purchase 10 parts of the same thing as shown in the ebay add for the same price from McMaster.com, but in stainless. Steel versions are a little cheaper. They are called Binding Barrels. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | yeah everyone finding a sucker on ebay Ill take the stainless versions. Just buy 10 because we all have more than one FWL car they carry them at the local hardware store. I would thread lock this one I think
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets
Edited by mikes2nd 2019-01-20 10:04 PM | ||
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