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I asked this on the FB page but thought I'd try here as well. Say I removed the swedges and seperated the drum from the hub on the rear of a 58 Coronet. And say my drums are beyond their tolernces and need to be replaced. Has anyone found a "modern" car running 11x2.5 drums that would work with the stock shoes, wheel cylinders, backing plates etc?
|That is the same brake size as used on the C body Mopars from 62 on (optional 11"x3"). The brakes were made by Bendix instead of Lockheed so don't know if you could make them work.|
Location: Muskego, WI
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Both are 11"x2.5" drums, but they are finned so I don't know if they will properly clear your backing plates. These drums are available from rockauto.com at about $35 to $40 each. Or pick them up at your local parts store.
Edited by jboymechanic 2020-03-05 1:14 PM
Location: Kalispell, MT USA
|CAR QUEST YH140365 |
A fellow on the Facebook 1964 Dodge 880 with tapered axle rear end used them successfully, no clearance issues.
|Thanks all, big help. I have a few options I can go with, I'm just weighing in all of them to see what's the best choice. I know a lot of people go the rear end swap, I'd prefer not to do that. I can also do the disc brake conversion, which is a valid option for me but it's one of those changes that once made you can't go back. Which is fine if it works but if it doesn't, it's going to be an issue. And lastly this option here, finding new drums that will fit the stock rear.|
|No reason other than cost to not go disc. Also no reason to ever go back. Original in this department is a non issue just because you are increasing safety by a large margin and the ease of pad changes. You can retain everything and add discs as I did on an imperial. I found a set of oem drums and hubs to use as the test subjects. Disc kit bolted right up with some experimenting and a little customizing. The axle is still original as well as the bolt pattern and bearings. Original drums can be put back on. I made a thread with pics a few years ago. |
Edited by 51coronet 2020-03-06 6:07 PM
Thanks, great thread! What master clyinder did you end up going with? I agree, no reason not to go with it and that's the end goal at some point. That point might come sooner then later. I have the basic rear disc kit from Roge ovr at AAJ. However I have not gotten past purchasing that. I need to get the rotors, calipers, new MC, etc. Plus I need the time to pull everything apart and cut the backing plates down to work with Rogers kit. The idea was, do a quick drum rebuild until next winter then do the rear disc set up. But I might push that up.
With Rogers kit you seperate the drum from the hub by cutting the lug studs out. Then the hub goes back on like you would see in any other modern rear axle. Last year I had a lug stud break so I pulled the drum and hub, cut all of the old studs out (LH threads) and put in 5 new RH threaded studs. I then put the drum back on as if it was a modern car where it just sits on the hub instead of being one unit. It does work but the drums are out of true and you can feel it. Considering I only drive around town and car shows I'm ok, plus I already have discs up front but I want to get them fixed. So again, the original idea was get new drums, shoes and wheel cyilnders for now then do the full rear disc upgrade later. But that may just change.
|I think Roger's kit is based around what I did. He called me shortly after I made that post. I am using a disc disc 1 1/8 bore dual resevoir master cylinder. Its a hard fit on hemi cars due to the enormous width of the hemi especially the 392. Im using a hyrdrobooster instead of vacuum boost. My 57 imperial is a resto mod so not worried about neat mods like that. It was trashed when I got it and missing everything in the engine compartment except the master cylinder and AC condenser.|
51coronet - 2020-03-09 4:08 PM I think Roger's kit is based around what I did. He called me shortly after I made that post. I am using a disc disc 1 1/8 bore dual resevoir master cylinder. Its a hard fit on hemi cars due to the enormous width of the hemi especially the 392. Im using a hyrdrobooster instead of vacuum boost. My 57 imperial is a resto mod so not worried about neat mods like that. It was trashed when I got it and missing everything in the engine compartment except the master cylinder and AC condenser.
I looked at your thread and indeed Rogers kit looks almost identical. The kit itself is very simple to install except the backing plates need to be cut. That's the no turning back part. However if it works, the reward is discs on all 4 corners.
As I mentioned in my pm to you, I heard a few people mention a 1" bore. I'm using manual brakes so would this be a better option or should I look into a 1 1/8" like you used?
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