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56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-05-30 6:10 PM (#599007 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Pulled the valve covers, one rocker shaft was just getting oil. Pulled it anyway and rolled it over. It's getting oil. I took a pump oiller and filled the shaft with oil. Pulled one bolt one the other side and filled the shaft with oil. I was just impatient I guess but if I ever do this again, I'll fill the shafts with oil.
I do still have a lifter tapping that was quite before but could be because the plungeris not exactly operating in the same position as before. I measured the old head gaskets and the new head gaskets and had the machine shop surface the heads by that amount. .025". But there was 9 rockers I had resurfaced so some lifters are not operating in the same range as before.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-05-30 8:46 PM (#599015 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Well I run it thru a full heat cycle and the lifter tap is so faint now someone would have to be listening for it. Also the water leaks around the intake are not much of anything, not enough to form a run and not much of a drop. This is with the coolant system pressurized. I think I'll run it a bit and keep an eye on it.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-05-31 12:11 AM (#599018 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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The JB Weld repair looks great. Since you cleaned and roughed up the surface so well, I'll bet it will work like a champ. It looks great.

I also just read your thread about the rocker shaft not being full of oil. I'm going to change my driver side shaft next week and I'll fill the shaft with oil just like you said. I pulled and cleaned both of my shafts last month and just ran the engine until they filled up from the engine running. Since I had oiled everything before, I didn't hear too much tapping but it got quieter after it got oiled up. I think you were worried about running for 20 seconds without oil but I don't think you need to worry. My engine had the cam bearing that supplies oil to the driver side rockers installed wrong and I drove the car for more than 500 miles without a drop of oil to the rockers. The damage was two intake rockers messed up and three push rods messed up. The shaft was OK. Less damage than you would think. I replaced the two bad intake rockers with NOS rockers I got off of ebay. I have the small tapping like you and am hoping that when I change the push rods that the tapping will stop. I'll definitely fill up the shaft with oil before starting this time. Very good idea.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-05-31 12:33 AM (#599021 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Regarding your water leak on the intake manifold. I don't know if the same as mine but on mine the two middle bolts on each side that hold the intake manifold down, you have to us a thread sealant on these bolts because bolt holes are drilled into the water jacket. The first time I installed, I didn't seal the threads and it leaked very slightly and made an ugly spot. This last install, I put Permatex Black RTV gasket maker on the threads and torqued them down and there is no leaking at all. The RTV works real good for sealing the threads. This would be easy to do if you think it is what is needed on yours. Just have to lower the water level in the radiator some and install RTV on the threads one bolt at a time. On mine, I also cleaned the threads in the block and bolts with a tap and die and degreased them with brake parts cleaner before installing the RTV (put RTV on bolts only, not in the bolt hole). There are two bolts on each side that need to have the threads sealed. Counting from the end of the head, it's bolts 4 and 5.

May not be the same as yours but this is how mine worked.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-05-31 3:11 PM (#599041 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Thanks Sam. I did put sealant on the threads of those bolts. Looks like the leak is due to the embossed steel type gaskets and a 60 year old not so perfect surface. I ordered some gaskets but I'm still hopeful it will seal on its own.

No leaks from the transmission or engine (oil)! No puff of smoke upon startup! No freeze plug leaks! I'm happy! Took the car down the road without a hood just to make sure the transmission shifted. I did have some trouble getting the cable adjustment right but it's good now.
Oh, and the lifter noise is gone!
Next I'll clean and paint the hood hinges, hood latch and horns and bottom side of the hood.
BTW, before I took the engine and transmission out, we took the car to a show about an hour away. The engine got hot (not over heated) but it started acting like it was vapor locking. When we got to the show, the fuel was bubbling (maybe boiling just a bit) in the glass fuel bowl just as it enters the carb. So I ordered one of them isolation type spacers and installed during this time. It is amazing how much cooler the carb is compared to the intake! I highly recommend if anyone is suffering from vaper lock!
I had other things fighting my ability to disperse heat, the water jackets was full of what reminded me of mud. Could have been stop leak. It was capped up behind the freeze plugs and no doubt contributed to the freeze plugs deteriorating. That's another reason I put a new aluminum radiator in it. If that was stop leak, what did the inside of the radiator look like? Plus, a modern aluminum radiator is more efficient anyway and I'll be adding ac so I probably needed to upgrade the radiator.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-01 9:09 AM (#599058 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I'm sure glad it is running so well and that the lifter noise is gone completely. (This gives me more hope on my lifter noise)...I got a new intake manifold gasket from Hot Heads the last time I installed my intake manifold and it was just a Garlock type material. Zero metal. It worked good but I did wonder why no metal now. I think it was a Best Gasket.

I have one of those insulator gaskets on my carburetor and didn't realize what it was for. One thing I did that helped my car run more balanced and cooler was to wire open the exhaust valve on the Passenger side manifold. Mine valve did move but put too much exhaust up to the Carburetor and over to the driver side. With it wired open, my paint on the intake manifold is not burning up and the engine has a more balanced run. The engine also runs cooler. I don't know if all is related to the valve being wired open but everything happened for the better after I wired it open.

I'm glad you engine is running so good. I have a rear main seal leak. How did you install your rear main seal so you don't have a leak. That's been an ongoing problem for me. I must not have done something correct on mine when I installed it.

Glad your engine is running so good...

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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-01 5:32 PM (#599073 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I didn't do anything special on the rear main seal. The one that came in my gasket kit was rubber vs the old rope seal I took out. I did clean the mating surface of the rear main cap good and apply a thin film of rtv but I always do that on a rear cap that houses the seal.
My heat riser is stuck open so I'm good there. I'm probably going to have to pull the intake but not yet.... I'm gonna watch it for the time being.
I did read and keep up with your rocker oiling issue, glad you got that straight....I can imagine you was not very happy.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-01 11:52 PM (#599082 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Hi BBdakota,

I installed the used rocker assembly I bought today. Actually I used the parts from the one I bought and the parts from the one I had and made the best one I could and it was a lot better than what I had. I filled the shaft with oil like you said and my rockers are a lot quieter now. Filling the shaft with oil worked real good. I just left the center bolt out and used a syringe to add oil. It held a lot of oil. I can still hear some very faint tapping but it is very much better than before. I have not driven it around yet so maybe when I do that it will get quieter just like yours did. I'm finally about to get this whole rocker assembly problem behind me. See how smart you were to install your own cam bearings!!!!

Regarding the rear main seal, I did not use any RTV on the main cap and that might be my problem. I think I can change the seal with the engine in the car just by pulling the oil pan and I may do that later. Can you tell me if your crank shaft still has those angled groves in it that help push the oil away from the rope seal. I still have those groves in my crank shaft in the seal area and I'm wondering if I should have turned them out and polished the shaft before I installed the rubber seal in order to get a better seal. If you still have the groves and no leaks, then it means I just need to install the RTV and that would be great news for me. Maybe all I need to do is pull the cap and add the RTV and put it all back together. That would be pretty easy.

Thanks.

Sam
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-02 7:09 AM (#599097 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Hi Sam.
I believe you rocker will quieten down....at least based on my experience.
I didn't tear into my short block so no I never removed my cam. The engine ran great, held good oil pressure and looking at the main bearing of the rear cap, it looked perfect.
I do still have the angled groves in my crank. I've installed other seals with those groves also and never had a problem.
It'd be a good idea to check the orientation of the seal halves when you pull the pan to make sure you didn't get twisted around and install one or both backwards...seams I read where you was double checking the orientation and know what you are doing, but I've gotten twisted around myself so put your eye on it again... also, the rtv will not stick/seal to an oily surface and it will be a challenge to get and keep the surface clean with the engine in the car, but it can be done, just don't get frustrated and install on an oily surface. Put just a smear of rtv where the seal halves butt to one another.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-02 1:38 PM (#599122 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Thanks so much BBDakota. This information really helps me out. And I know EXACTLY what you mean about getting turned around and backwards on things. I've done that so many times that now I know to double and triple check myself and even with all of this extra checking, I still get backwards.

I'm real happy to know how you installed your seal. This is extremely valuable information to me and now I think I know how to fix mine and I think I can do it by just pulling the oil pan, which is not such a hard job. Before I do this job, I may contact you again for some more counselling.... Thanks....
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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-02 2:18 PM (#599124 - in reply to #599122)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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samstrader - 2020-06-02 10:38 AM I think I can do it by just pulling the oil pan, which is not such a hard job.


I hope that you are right (for your vehicle) Sam because I understand that to pull the pan on 56 Dodge V8 the engine has to be lifted (not necessarily out but still lifted) which is a big can of worms that I am not interested in opening at the moment. Even though I have a slight but annoying rear seal leak.

Good luck to you when/if you tackle that job on your car.

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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-03 1:32 PM (#599162 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I pulled my oil pan back in 2011 and that's when I found my main bearings bad. On mine, you have to drop some of the steering linkage and then it comes right down very easy. I might have had to pull the starter too but don't remember. I don't remember having to jack up the engine at all. Once the steering linkage is dropped down, it's almost a wide open drop for the oil pan. The main problem for me is working on my back on the garage floor under a car. I'm getting too old for that.

I've been thinking about this seal leak and am wondering if I can just add RTV to the seal ends and bearing cap and close it back up without replacing the seal. That would be real easy.

I've had some misfortunes on my engine but I sure have learned a lot about these engines and engines in general. I believe I could do a real good engine rebuild now as long as I got good machining and good parts. Getting good parts is not so easy any more I think.

But getting good help and good advice on this site is extremely valuable. It makes all the difference.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-03 5:05 PM (#599168 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I've been thinking about this seal leak and am wondering if I can just add RTV to the seal ends and bearing cap and close it back up without replacing the seal.



The chemicals you use to get it clean enough might not be good for the rubber. you can easily push a rubber seal out of the block side, I'd replace it if you go through enough trouble to get to it.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-06 4:31 PM (#599337 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I got everything put back on the car except the horns, the wife and I took the car out to get something to eat then a hour or so ride around the bayou.... It lost power to the coil for a spit second once and back fired when it got power again.....I'm guessing that's what happened. I couldn't get it to repeat no matter what I did.... Anyway, the intake has stopped leaking.... this thing doesn't leak a drop of anything! A far cry from where I started. Next project will be underdash ac. I'll add a fan shroud at that time. The plan is to run a multi groove water pump pulley and run the compressor from a groove on the water pump. I'll also add a cooler to the transmission since cruisin the coast could be a lot of creeping traffic in the heat.



(20200605_185823_copy_756x1008.jpg)



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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-06 4:33 PM (#599338 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Oh, and lake pipes! I'm gonna put some lake pipes on her!
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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-06 8:21 PM (#599345 - in reply to #599337)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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bbdakota - 2020-06-06 1:31 PM I'll also add a cooler to the transmission since cruising the coast could be a lot of creeping traffic in the heat.


Scott: Looking good.

Have to warn you that you might have a challenge on your hands because your Powerflite is currently air-cooled (fins on the torque converter) and there are no ports on the transmission to run the transmission fluid forward to an auxiliary air to fluid cooler. Not saying that you won't be able to do it, just that it will be a challenge, not a slam dunk. (There were liquid-cooled Powerflites in some of the big 55-56 Chryslers and Imperials, just not the Dodges, etc)

The first photo shows the lack of ports, the second, an air-cooled torque converter.





Edited by 56D500boy 2020-06-06 8:24 PM
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-06 9:20 PM (#599353 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Shouldn't be hard to install a cooler, remove the 1/8th inch plugs, install fittings and plumb some steel tubing lines to the front of the engine. Then rubber lines to the cooler. I ordered 3/8" steel line, only because I have a bender for 3/8 and the cooler has 3/8" fittings. I could have gotten away with 5/16"...
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-06 9:21 PM (#599354 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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The transmission does have the ports, they have 1/8th inch pipe plugs in them now
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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-07 1:54 AM (#599359 - in reply to #599354)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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bbdakota - 2020-06-06 6:21 PM
The transmission does have the ports, they have 1/8th inch pipe plugs in them now


bbdakota - 2020-06-06 6:20 PMShouldn't be hard to install a cooler, remove the 1/8th inch plugs, install fittings and plumb some steel tubing lines to the front of the engine. Then rubber lines to the cooler. I ordered 3/8" steel line, only because I have a bender for 3/8 and the cooler has 3/8" fittings. I could have gotten away with 5/16"...


Wow. You got very lucky. Plumb away!!

If you happen to get a chance, it would be interesting to see a photo of the location of the ports and also if there is a stamped P/N on the flat machined surface by the trans fluid pan, by the filling tube. I wonder whether the P/N might be 1636 237 or maybe 1676 190.




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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-07 5:08 PM (#599378 - in reply to #599359)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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bbdakota - 2020-06-06 6:21 PM
The transmission does have the ports, they have 1/8th inch pipe plugs in them now


bbdakota - 2020-06-06 6:20 PMShouldn't be hard to install a cooler, remove the 1/8th inch plugs, install fittings and plumb some steel tubing lines to the front of the engine. Then rubber lines to the cooler. I ordered 3/8" steel line, only because I have a bender for 3/8 and the cooler has 3/8" fittings. I could have gotten away with 5/16"...


Hmm...are you talking these (below)? I'm not sure if any of them will provide the fluid flow that you need for an external trans cooler. They are there for a reason and I don't know if you can repurpose them for your needs.



Edited by 56D500boy 2020-06-07 5:13 PM




(56DodgePowerFlite_LeftSide_Annotated.jpg)



(PowerfliteLeftSideDiagram_Annotated.jpg)



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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-07 5:30 PM (#599379 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Yes, the torque converter outlet valve plug and the lubrication pressure takeoff plug are the 2 ports I plan to install the cooler to. As I understand, that's the 2 ports used on later models for a factory cooler. Do you know a reason this would be incorrect?
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-07 5:32 PM (#599380 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Next time I get the car on the lift, I'll get the numbers off the powerflite
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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-07 8:14 PM (#599388 - in reply to #599379)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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bbdakota - 2020-06-07 2:30 PM
Yes, the torque converter outlet valve plug and the lubrication pressure takeoff plug are the 2 ports I plan to install the cooler to. As I understand, that's the 2 ports used on later models for a factory cooler. Do you know a reason this would be incorrect?


I just checked the 1956 Chrysler Factory Service Manual because I know that some of the senior Chryslers got oil coolers for their Powerflites. The diagram below confirms that ports that you were going to use are the same ones that the factory used to run lines to the cooler. Now I have to check the 1957 Chrysler Torqueflite diagrams to see if it would be that easy to install an external oil cooler on an air-cooled A-466 Cast Iron Torqueflite. I don't think it is. EDIT: It isn't

I think you are good to go (or at least try it)



Edited by 56D500boy 2020-06-07 11:31 PM




(56ChryslerPowerFliteDiagramsShowingPortsForTransOilCoolerConnections.jpg)



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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-08 4:18 AM (#599396 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Thanks for the help on the Rear Main Seal BBDakota. I'll put a new seal like you recommend. I'm glad it's easy to push out and it would just be safer to do it that way. I'm glad I have a good chance to make the seal leak stop. Thank you and everyone for all the help with this. Just very valuable advice that helps me out a lot.

The chemicals you use to get it clean enough might not be good for the rubber. you can easily push a rubber seal out of the block side, I'd replace it if you go through enough trouble to get to it
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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-08 4:23 AM (#599397 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Just studied the picture of your engine bbdakota. It sure looks great. Whole engine compartment looks great. I'm glad no leaks of any kind at all. And great that the intake manifold took up too. I've been reading all of your automatic transmission stuff and I'm glad I have a 3 speed manual. It leaks a little but it's pretty easy to fix. Your car is beautiful...
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-08 6:20 AM (#599400 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Thanks 56D500boy and thanks Sam. It took many hours of cleaning, stripping paint and grime then tape and paint but I'm happy with it. I welded up unused holes in the inter fenders while I had the chance also.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-14 7:13 AM (#599649 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I took her to her first cruise in since getting her all back together. Most everyone said something to the effect of "you don't see many of these around ". One guy that looked over the car returned in about an hour and said "I've looked at every car here now and this is my favorite "



I've got the ac ordered, I'm trying to figure out how I want to build the fan shroud and still have it look period correct. Here's some pictures from the cruise in.



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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-14 12:57 PM (#599655 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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My 1955 Plymouth has a fan shroud. But it is only 1/2 way around from the top. Not sure how to make it fit and attach to an aluminum radiator. Wouldn't look right for the time period but an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser may be a good option. They sure work better when the car is at an idle.
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motorobo
Posted 2020-06-15 4:07 PM (#599709 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Very Nice! We have a 4 door hardtop as well, very similar with the 315 Poly.






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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-15 6:01 PM (#599716 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Nice Ryan! I'd love to see more pictures of your car! What area do you live in?
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-19 5:40 PM (#599867 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Fan shroud made! Although I'm not comfortable with the clearance to the fan. I ordered a 6 blade 18" fan but the adapter to adapt the pilot hole from 1-1/8" to 5/8" was on back order. The 4 blade fan on my car is 18-1/4". Either the fan or shroud must not be original because the shroud only had about 1/4" clearance when bolted to the center of the slotted holes. I cut the shroud in half, made a simple pan and welded them together.
I did put the car in gear, both fwd and reverse, held the brake and leaned on the throttle. Fan didn't hit.



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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-21 3:27 PM (#599964 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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That is a really good job on the fan shroud. It looks almost exactly like my original one. It will really help your cooling.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-21 8:26 PM (#599980 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Thanks Sam but it did start getting hot on me when I got stuck in traffic in the middle of the day after being on the interstate for 30 miles, cooled back down once we got moving again. I'm hoping to try the derale 6 blade fan as soon as I get the adapter, it was on backorder when I ordered the fan.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-28 8:21 AM (#600224 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Lake pipes! I like them. I have all the AC components delivered except for the fan adapter. I'm going to change the fan to a 6 blade aftermarket. Should move more air. I'm not impressed with the amount of air the factory 4 blade moves.



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samstrader
Posted 2020-06-28 9:22 AM (#600226 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I like the pipes!!!
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Viper Guy
Posted 2020-06-28 3:23 PM (#600274 - in reply to #599980)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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Location: Branson, MO
bbdakota - 2020-06-21 7:26 PM

Thanks Sam but it did start getting hot on me when I got stuck in traffic in the middle of the day after being on the interstate for 30 miles, cooled back down once we got moving again. I'm hoping to try the derale 6 blade fan as soon as I get the adapter, it was on backorder when I ordered the fan.


You might consider an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator if you don't get satisfaction from your 6 blade. The pusher fan has been fantastic on our retro mods we built at Smitty's Classic Cars and they are temperature sensitive for engaging and disengaging so they only run when required. These are a must if you add A/C to your car.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-28 8:46 PM (#600283 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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I'll certainly keep the pusher fan in mind! Thanks!
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-28 8:52 PM (#600284 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Ac evaporator don't look like it sticks out as far as I was thinking. I was afraid it was going to stick out from under the dash far enough to look terrible but I'm satisfied with how it looks like it's going to fit. Just set on blocks right now.



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56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-28 9:37 PM (#600286 - in reply to #600284)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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The air outlets are about the same diameter as the 56 Dodge gauges. The A/C unit might blend in better if the panel that the air outlets sit in was white like the dash.

Just a thought.

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Steve1956
Posted 2020-06-29 1:20 AM (#600293 - in reply to #600284)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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That's the same type of unit I am contemplating using in my 56 Dodge Cust Royal. Except mine is RHD with a 55 Plymouth dash. I would like to follow how you mount the unit and accommodate the slide for the vent.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-07-03 4:10 PM (#600469 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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She got some new shoes today! Diamondback auburn premium radials! Rides and drives so much better then them old bias ply tires!



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Viper Guy
Posted 2020-07-03 5:29 PM (#600473 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop



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That’s the way I’ll go when I get new shoes for my DeSoto. The old bias plys will go on the stock rims for show purposes if need be and the WSW radials will go on the wires for comfy driving.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-09-07 4:17 PM (#602994 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Finally got the ac installed. Not really a hurry with all kinds of events being canceled. I put a 12" pusher on the condenser wired to come on when the compressor kicks on. At idle in this heat, I'm getting 43 degrees at the vent. It didn't leak down overnight but time will tell if all the lines will not leak.



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Steve1956
Posted 2020-09-07 5:54 PM (#602997 - in reply to #602994)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Do you have any photos of how you mounted the Air Con to the dash ? Thanks, Steve
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-09-07 7:03 PM (#602998 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Steve, I just made some brackets and added a round rod to the edge so in case of an accident, maybe it wouldn't slice us open as bad



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22mafeja
Posted 2020-09-08 3:19 AM (#603012 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Did you get the temperature issue under control? If not I would guess that the cooling pocket in the cylinder block are full of crap. I assume that the ignition advance is big enough ,that can
make a difference if it is on the limit of overheating.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-09-08 12:49 PM (#603025 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Hi Ralf. I've done about all I know to do right now except change over to a Chevy water pump and smaller water pump pulley to spin the water pump and fan faster at idle. It'll run all day down the road and not get to hot. It'll idle with the hood open and not get to hot. But if I run it hard and long (get it heat soaked) than sit in traffic on a 90 plus degree day, it'll get hot enough to vapor lock. I've added an electric fuel pump at the tank to keep it from vaper lock.
Things I've done so far.
Took all the freeze plugs out and rinsed all the crap out of the coolant passages.
Added aluminum radiator.
Added 6 blade mechanical fan.
Added fan shroud.
Fixed the vaccum advance canister.
Pulled vaccum advance from manifold.
Added isolation spacer under carb.
Added insulated sleeve on fuel line from fuel pump to carb.
Set timing initial at 10, with vaccum added at idle it's about 26-27. It hasn't boiled. Maybe the electric fuel pump will keep it running and I can throw it in neutral, raise the rpm a bit to get the fan pulling more air and water pump moving more water and keep it from getting to hot. I haven't tried that yet. The only time I needed the electric fuel pump, it blew a fuse. I tapped on the side of it with a new fuse and it started working. Must have gotten trash in the vane. I do have a filter before the pump.
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22mafeja
Posted 2020-09-08 1:29 PM (#603027 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: RE: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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Location: Finland
Jep you seem to have done it all....one more humble question...has the cylinderblock been recently re bored? For me the engine shop has machined too small piston clearances with overheating
as result. If that is the case you just have to drive on with that problem until it gets a little wear in the bores.
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bbdakota
Posted 2020-09-08 4:41 PM (#603038 - in reply to #595878)
Subject: Re: 56 Dodge Royal 4dr hardtop


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No, it's a stock bore. I have not taken the water pump off to have a look at it. Looks as though it might have been replaced not to long ago and it don't leak sho really no reason to remove it.
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