The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Transmission Model Question
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> General Technical Discussion and TroubleshootingMessage format
 
Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-04-01 11:41 PM (#596353)
Subject: Transmission Model Question


Regular

Posts: 75
252525
Are all the cast iron first generation torqueflite transmissions the same? I have a 57 Dodge torqueflite with trouble. A guy doesn't know the year (58?) but has a 392 imperial engine with the original cast iron torqueflite on it. Are they the same transmission? I need a valve body donor. Thanks for your expertise.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2020-04-02 2:31 AM (#596357 - in reply to #596353)
Subject: Re: Transmission Model Question



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12220
500050002000100100
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
The first generation A466 is the same and they are reconnised by the demountable shift cable housing. There could be some differences as for the accumulator spring, and the governor.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2020-04-02 2:31 AM (#596358 - in reply to #596353)
Subject: RE: Transmission Model Question



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5997
5000500100100100100252525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
.
I am no where near an expert but I have some Torqueflite experience via my swap from Powerflite to Torqueflite in my 56 Dodge. Along the way I gathered some parts and some knowledge via the various Mopar Parts catalogues, especially the 55-58 Catalogue available to download from Mymopar.com.

In trying to find you an answer to your question, I also found this:

http://www.jholst.net/59-parts-manual/transmission.pdf

Based on the 55-58 Mopar Parts catalogue, you need to determine whether what you need is the front, rear or lower valve bodies (or maybe all three)

It looks like the 57-58 Front valve bodies were the same across all Mopar makes with PN 1736 475.

When you get to the rear valve body, there are two different numbers for 57 and 58, 1732 131 for 57 and 1824 326 for 58. There are also differences for the lower valve body, 1736 229 for 1957 and 1824 332 for 1958. I have a NOS 1736 229 in my hand that I bought but was not used during the swap.

I had a quick look for the 1736 475 and did not find anything.

At Hiltop, I found a 1732 131 for a 1957 in case that is what you need.

https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-rear-valve-body-19...

When I did my swap, I had found a complete used valve body unit (front, rear, and lower) just in case. The transmission shop liked it better than the one that came in my 1957 Windsor torqueflite so they used my eBay one. Now I have a more used one gathering dust. No sure if it works or not.

See below for the PN references:





Edited by 56D500boy 2020-04-02 2:42 AM




(A-466ShifterUnitShowingFrontAndRearValveBodies.jpg)



(A-466ShifterUnitShowingLowerValveBody.jpg)



(A-466TorqueFliteExplodedPartsDiagram.jpg)



(A-466ValveBodyDiagram.jpg)



(A-466ValveBodyPNs.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments A-466ShifterUnitShowingFrontAndRearValveBodies.jpg (187KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments A-466ShifterUnitShowingLowerValveBody.jpg (173KB - 19 downloads)
Attachments A-466TorqueFliteExplodedPartsDiagram.jpg (162KB - 19 downloads)
Attachments A-466ValveBodyDiagram.jpg (116KB - 21 downloads)
Attachments A-466ValveBodyPNs.jpg (160KB - 19 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
jboymechanic
Posted 2020-04-02 1:50 PM (#596366 - in reply to #596353)
Subject: Re: Transmission Model Question



Expert

Posts: 1848
100050010010010025
Location: Muskego, WI
As others have mentioned, whole transmission assemblies may be interchangeable, but you may find slight differences when trying to swap parts from one trans to another. Early TFs have different shift cables and adjustments, aluminum versus steel torque converter reaction shafts, and many other differences over the few years the cast iron units were made. If you have a good core, have it rebuilt and swap out the entire trans when ready.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-04-02 9:47 PM (#596377 - in reply to #596353)
Subject: Re: Transmission Model Question


Regular

Posts: 75
252525
Thank you guys for the information. The parts diagrams are very helpful. I had my transmission rebuilt and it was very cruddy inside. The guy said he had a hard time cleaning up the valve body and about gave up on it. My car starts out just fine the trans works perfect. But if I drive it a few miles to warm it up then it has trouble. If I put it in reverse and then in drive I loose all the forward gears. Reverse seems to always work but if I punch buttons a while then I can usually get a higher gear like second or maybe drive and it will slip and barely get going. If I stop and let it cool down then its the same all over. It starts out perfect, all gears and they work correctly. I think the main shift spool valve is sticking when it gets up to temperature.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
local2Ed
Posted 2020-04-05 9:23 AM (#596457 - in reply to #596377)
Subject: Re: Transmission Model Question


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 472
1001001001002525
Randy Schultz - 2020-04-02 9:47 PM

Thank you guys for the information. The parts diagrams are very helpful. I had my transmission rebuilt and it was very cruddy inside. The guy said he had a hard time cleaning up the valve body and about gave up on it. My car starts out just fine the trans works perfect. But if I drive it a few miles to warm it up then it has trouble. If I put it in reverse and then in drive I loose all the forward gears. Reverse seems to always work but if I punch buttons a while then I can usually get a higher gear like second or maybe drive and it will slip and barely get going. If I stop and let it cool down then its the same all over. It starts out perfect, all gears and they work correctly. I think the main shift spool valve is sticking when it gets up to temperature.



I have had a similar problem with a 1958 Dodge Coronet with PowerFlite transmission.
Start out cold and the transmission will shift perfectly all day.
Put the car in reverse or turn it off after it has been running long enough to be warmed up and it will only stay in low and never upshift.
I have yet to find a transmission shop that doesn't want to just rebuild it , for $2500.oo, than one that has run some tests to point out the problem.
I've put over 10,000 miles on it driving it as is but would like to find the definite problem .

I will be looking forward for your results.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-04-05 9:53 PM (#596481 - in reply to #596353)
Subject: Re: Transmission Model Question


Regular

Posts: 75
252525
The repair shop owner is a big car guy. He has a 392 imperial with transmission that he is going to put in a street rod so he doesn't need the trans. He is going to pull the valve body in a couple of weeks and then we are going to get into mine to see if they interchange. Mine was rebuilt and my shop manual says the main cause for sticking spools in over tightening the bolts that hold the valve body on. They give a torque spec for the bolts. That could be my problem, but if yours has never been rebuilt that shouldn't be the case. That original transmission fluid was made out of real whale oil and stinks to this day like dead fish. Mine was gummed up and all the metal was stained and tarnished from that stuff even the inside of the case. You might shop for a smaller independent shop, tell them they don't have to warranty anything and tell them to take the valve body out and clean it up.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread



(Delete all cookies set by this site)