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u-bolts for drive shaft to differential? Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> General Technical Discussion and Troubleshooting | Message format |
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | Tried rock-auto, o-reily, ebay, autozone. Now asking here because none of the mentioned have u-bolts to connect the drive shaft to the differential. Can anyone supply a part number or source for u-bolts for a 1957 Imperial? Thanks a lot! | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 51coronet - 2020-05-24 10:32 PM Tried rock-auto, o-reily, ebay, autozone. Now asking here because none of the mentioned have u-bolts to connect the drive shaft to the differential. Can anyone supply a part number or source for u-bolts for a 1957 Imperial? Maybe because there originally wasn't any U-bolts? (55-58UJointDefinitionDiagrams_1.jpg) (55-58UJointDefinitionDiagrams_2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 55-58UJointDefinitionDiagrams_1.jpg (120KB - 358 downloads) 55-58UJointDefinitionDiagrams_2.jpg (122KB - 348 downloads) | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | Not true, your details dont have anything for the axle end. You are looking at the carrier(middle) up to the trans. I need ubolts for the diff to drive shaft. There were definitely bolts to hold the drive shaft to the axle and or bolt and clamp assembly to hold this area together. Edited by 51coronet 2020-05-25 11:11 AM (u bolt.jpg) Attachments ---------------- u bolt.jpg (73KB - 347 downloads) | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | I need correct clamp and hardware. My yoke is not threaded so nuts are needed on the bolt also which isnt represented in the picture | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I'm curious also. Mine has u-blots yet I couldn't find anything listed for the bolts. I looked under "propeller shaft" and "rear axle". How is the u-joint held to the flange? Through bolts with a half retainer cup[what ever it might be called], studs, or is the flange threaded? | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | udoittwo - 2020-05-25 11:00 AM I'm curious also. Mine has u-blots yet I couldn't find anything listed for the bolts. I looked under "propeller shaft" and "rear axle". How is the u-joint held to the flange? Through bolts with a half retainer cup[what ever it might be called], studs, or is the flange threaded? Mine is not threaded and is OEM from what I can tell. I got the car with the drive shaft disconnected and no hardware there at the axle. Now I am at the point to putting things together and nothing is listed for the axle to drive shaft as far as hardware goes. I picked up some cheby 1350 u joint bracket and bolt assembly but they arent a good fit. I can make it work but would prefer not to drill the holes in the new clamps to make it work. I also dont have correct length bolts on hand to make it work so if I am going to go buy something to "mickey mouse" this I might as well pick up the correct parts. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 51coronet - 2020-05-25 7:36 AM Not true, your details dont have anything for the axle end. You are looking at the carrier(middle) up to the trans. I need ubolts for the diff to drive shaft. There were definitely bolts to hold the drive shaft to the axle and or bolt and clamp assembly to hold this area together. So you didn't start with the "earred" U-joint at the differential end like the one shown in these photos (ignore the cut-line stuff)?? | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3393 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Same on my 55 NEw Yorker, hard to get these days. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | Someone just started reproducing those flanged u-joints I think it was mopar-mall, but not sure. But if that's what you have, you'll just need some fine threaded grade-8 bolts & nuts to mount it. The round seats in the yolk are very shallow for this u-joint so that yolk isn't compatible with any other style of u-joint. If you have this, I recommend swapping out the yolk on the differential for a later version. The typical U-bolt style that Chrysler used was for the 1330 joint. So if that's what you have, look up some u-bolts for that joint. You can tell which joint you have by measuring the cap diameter & length. | ||
Suddenlyits1960! |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 403 Location: California | 56D500boy - 2020-05-25 11:52 AM 51coronet - 2020-05-25 7:36 AM Not true, your details dont have anything for the axle end. You are looking at the carrier(middle) up to the trans. I need ubolts for the diff to drive shaft. There were definitely bolts to hold the drive shaft to the axle and or bolt and clamp assembly to hold this area together. So you didn't start with the "earred" U-joint at the differential end like the one shown in these photos (ignore the cut-line stuff)?? I had this same “eared” rear u-joint on a 57 Dodge Coronet 20 some years ago. They are hard to find. Nobody local had one. I ended up finding an NOS one from Andy Bernbaum auto parts. | ||
Suddenlyits1960! |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 403 Location: California | “Powerflite” is right! Just checked mopar mall and they do indeed now offer a repro of the “eared” style rear unjoint for our cars! https://www.moparmall.com/1603998-1752680-1752623-Universal-Joints-D... | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Suddenlyits1960! - 2020-05-25 10:01 AM “Powerflite” is right! Just checked mopar mall and they do indeed now offer a repro of the “eared” style rear unjoint for our cars! Maybe. I didn't have good luck with Mopar Mall. I bought what was supposed to be an NOS "eared" u-joint from them and it was obviously a USED greasy U-joint that someone in the past had put in a NOS box and put on a shelf and forgot that it was used and nobody at Mopar Mall checked before they sent it out to me. I returned it for a refund but I am sure that they think that I scammed them. I DID NOT. The next guy might get lucky and get a good one. I swapped my 56 Pinion Flange out for a 58 pinion flange and am now running a Moog 315G U-joint. What I got from Mopar Mall (and sent back): What I am running now: REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=69669&... | ||
Mikeb |
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Member Posts: 44 | Has anyone found a U-joint that will accept the old eared bearing caps. I tried the Moog 315G but it is .01" too big and the cap will not fit. Looking for a U-joint part # that has the same outside dimensions of the 315G but is .01"smaller inside. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Mikeb - 2020-05-26 8:07 PM Has anyone found a U-joint that will accept the old eared bearing caps. I tried the Moog 315G but it is .01" too big and the cap will not fit. Looking for a U-joint part # that has the same outside dimensions of the 315G but is .01"smaller inside. Based on my experience, the only way to run a more modern non-earred rear U-joint is to change the pinion flange to a 58 style pinion flange. By 58 they had mostly done away with the earred U-joints. I tried the Moog 315G in my OE 56 Pinion flange and the only way it would work would have been if I had some spacers machined - Or a bunch of stacked flat washers but that was too sketchy for me thanks. I went with a 58 Dodge pinion that I found as NOS (never been on a car). Edited by 56D500boy 2020-05-26 11:25 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | He's talking about swapping the old flanged caps onto the new u-joint. You could take your old caps to a machine shop and machine them out to the bigger size. That would also eliminate any wear that might have been on them too. | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | 56D500boy - 2020-05-26 11:23 PM Mikeb - 2020-05-26 8:07 PM Has anyone found a U-joint that will accept the old eared bearing caps. I tried the Moog 315G but it is .01" too big and the cap will not fit. Looking for a U-joint part # that has the same outside dimensions of the 315G but is .01"smaller inside. Based on my experience, the only way to run a more modern non-earred rear U-joint is to change the pinion flange to a 58 style pinion flange. By 58 they had mostly done away with the earred U-joints. I tried the Moog 315G in my OE 56 Pinion flange and the only way it would work would have been if I had some spacers machined - Or a bunch of stacked flat washers but that was too sketchy for me thanks. I went with a 58 Dodge pinion that I found as NOS (never been on a car). That gap is pretty much what I am dealing with and the holes on the clamp are slightly narrow or wide compared to the axle yoke by maybe .1 inch (don't remember) So changing out the yoke seems like the best solution.... | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 51coronet - 2020-05-27 11:16 AMThat gap is pretty much what I am dealing with and the holes on the clamp are slightly narrow or wide compared to the axle yoke by maybe .1 inch (don't remember) So changing out the yoke seems like the best solution.... Changing the yoke worked for me. Along the way to that decision, while searching for 7260 "Small Mopar" u-joints, I did but into things like this (with U-joint U-clamps) so they are out there (somewhere): I think that you might get lucky if you look for Dana Spicer U-joint stuff like this one at the Bronco Graveyard: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Dana-Spicer-U-Bolts-for-1410-Series... | ||
Mikeb |
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Member Posts: 44 | I was hoping someone had found a joint that would accept the old, eared caps but if not I will most likely go with the one Birnbaum has. Thanks | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | Fixed. Ordered a Mopar P4876803 8-3/4 Iron 10 spline Rear End Yoke W/ Straps 8.75" Dodge 7260 from ebay. Everything fits nice and snug and no gap in the u-joint strap. The 7260 has snap rings that line it up center inside the new yoke and straps. I almost pulled them off because I thought they were in the way. Glad I didnt because they are integral to getting it all centered up. Anyone need a stock yoke from an imperial? I plan on trying to sell it. Its in really good shape because of the thick layer of greasy dirt that preserved it. Soaked it in gas for a few hours and all the crud wipes right off. | ||
Manifest Predicament |
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Member Posts: 34 Location: Sioux Falls, SD | Going from the stock 56 yoke 8.75" to this 57-58 style, would it need additional shims or adjustment or just a simple remove and replace using a good puller? | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Manifest Predicament - 2022-01-30 3:54 PM Going from the stock 56 yoke 8.75" to this 57-58 style, would it need additional shims or adjustment or just a simple remove and replace using a good puller? I don't know about the 8 3/4" rear diff but when I had a 57-58 Pinion flange/yoke installed in my 1956 8 1/4" rear diff (while they were replacing the seal), the shop had to find a spacer washer to make things work. (Not sure if you would need it or not). This: REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=69669&... | ||
Manifest Predicament |
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Member Posts: 34 Location: Sioux Falls, SD | Thanks for the spacer to keep in mind. I'll certainly post here if it turns out I need it.. Called Benny Buckner in Vest Virginia and he's looking for that yoke. Says he has a 58 Saratoga that may be the same. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Manifest Predicament - 2022-01-31 1:22 PM Thanks for the spacer to keep in mind. I'll certainly post here if it turns out I need it.. Called Benny Buckner in Vest Virginia and he's looking for that yoke. Says he has a 58 Saratoga that may be the same. Be aware that if the Saratoga yoke is worn (a groove from the seal rubbing), you might have to install a SpeediSleeve, like this one, about to be banged on using that cap as a "drift". | ||
Manifest Predicament |
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Member Posts: 34 Location: Sioux Falls, SD | 50D500boy, A typical steering wheel puller should get that yolk off shouldn't it? | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Manifest Predicament - 2022-02-18 7:25 AM 50D500boy, A typical steering wheel puller should get that yolk off shouldn't it? Not sure who 50D500boy is but I will try to answer your question. A steering wheel puller might work but it might be too weak. This is an image of the official Mopar Flange Removal Tool C-452 in action. Real C-452s are still out there for sale if you find that your steering wheel puller can't cut it. Edited by 56D500boy 2022-02-18 11:26 AM (UsingToolC452ToRemoveTheRearDriveFlange.jpg) (UsingToolC452ToRemoveTheRearDriveFlange_2.jpg) (C452CompanionFlangePullerSetOnAmazon.jpg) Attachments ---------------- UsingToolC452ToRemoveTheRearDriveFlange.jpg (108KB - 121 downloads) UsingToolC452ToRemoveTheRearDriveFlange_2.jpg (99KB - 113 downloads) C452CompanionFlangePullerSetOnAmazon.jpg (58KB - 128 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | It doesn't typically need a puller. You can usually get them off with just a few taps. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2022-02-18 8:44 AM It doesn't typically need a puller. You can usually get them off with just a few taps. Nathan: On a related note, what do you think about this tool (from the 57 Dodge FSM) showing the removal of the big flange nut. Doesn't look like there is much torque involved. I thought that it needed a big (30") breaker bar or an impact wrench. (??) (CompanionFlangeNutRemovalTool.jpg) Attachments ---------------- CompanionFlangeNutRemovalTool.jpg (113KB - 125 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9650 Location: So. Cal | I've tried getting the yolk off my '70 Satellite without air tools once. It was practically impossible. The pathetic 2-handed operation there would be a complete failure. You can literally drive the car around with the torque that's required to pull that off. A heavy impact tool is definitely the way to go. | ||
Manifest Predicament |
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Member Posts: 34 Location: Sioux Falls, SD | Thanks 56!! Sorry for the typo but Yes I was addressing you as you covered so much on this helpful thread. Hope it comes off with a couple taps but doing this from the road so wanted to have everything. | ||
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