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57 Dodge Brake question
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Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-07-11 9:15 PM (#600744)
Subject: 57 Dodge Brake question


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I am working on a 57 Dodge non power brake problem. The drivers front wheel locks up when going forward slowlly and putting on the brakes. It will unlock backing up and if I don't press the brakes it will go forward fine until I press on the pedal. The right side works fine. I have taken the drum off and everything looks fine nothing broken or out of place shoes are dry and good. There are no leaks. I even completely backed off the adjusting bolts and it still does it. The back off springs are fine and hooked in the right place. I know that the shoe is not attached on the end opposite the cylinder, They also slide in between two plates of metal. I am wondering if they don't slide enough to return when the pedal is pushed and then let off. Has anyone had a similar experience or have a idea? Thanks
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56D500boy
Posted 2020-07-11 10:01 PM (#600746 - in reply to #600744)
Subject: RE: 57 Dodge Brake question



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Not uncommon.

See these threads (just two examples):

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=66172&...

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=67884&...

I replaced my return springs, lubricated the shoes and the space between the plates with white lithium grease and adjusted the brakes properly. No more problems. Well, until it gets wet out and I don't drive the car for awhile, then it is back to locking up. But I just do the backing up trick and then power through the first "lock" and it clears.

Adjusting the brakes:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=70484&...

My center plane front brakes:

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Viper Guy
Posted 2020-07-11 11:45 PM (#600752 - in reply to #600744)
Subject: Re: 57 Dodge Brake question



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Location: Branson, MO
Brake linings are absorbing moisture and along with other stuff getting impregnated they grab until heated up and cleaned a bit from use. Let it sit for a few days and it’s back to the same old story.

I put up with this crap for 4 years, disassembling, cleaning, sanding, reassembling, etc., and finally broke down last year and put new shoes on. Problem solved.

Edited by Viper Guy 2020-07-12 1:48 PM
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Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-07-12 12:18 AM (#600753 - in reply to #600744)
Subject: Re: 57 Dodge Brake question


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Wow I learned something today. I had never heard that brakes were a problem on these cars. Thanks to both of you for the input.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2020-07-12 1:10 AM (#600754 - in reply to #600753)
Subject: Re: 57 Dodge Brake question


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I’ve restored lots of these cars. Follow all the steps of the FSM and put some brake punishing miles on the car. Pull the drums, look at the shoes and sand down all the high spots with 50 grit. Repeat the brake punishing miles. Just keep doing this until all the shoe to drum contact is even. Then: go chase Jags on the freeway!

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-12 10:44 AM (#600760 - in reply to #600744)
Subject: Re: 57 Dodge Brake question



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Make sure both of those retainers are in place. The symptoms you describe are often associated with one or more of them missing. Also, if your backing plates are heavily worn or bent, you can get similar results.
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Randy Schultz
Posted 2020-12-20 11:04 PM (#606929 - in reply to #600760)
Subject: Re: 57 Dodge Brake question


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The weather got cold and I let my car set for several weeks. When I got in it and tried to drive both front brakes would lock up when going forward. I have a theory on this. I don't think its the brake shoe material (mine were original asbestos) or shoes not sliding or weak springs etc. I have noticed on my 2 year old pick up that if it sets several days the four wheel disc brakes have a scraping sound upon driving for a short distance. I have looked and this is due to flash rust forming on the shiny surface of the rotors. I think my car drums are getting flash rust on the inner brake surface from sitting and that build up drags on the shoes. This extra drag tips the "floating" shoes and locks them up. That's why it takes a little driving to get the rust scraped off and then they work ok again. It also explains why most people dont have any trouble when they drive their cars every day or so. The rust doesn't have a chance to form on the shined up brake surface. So if you live in a damp location I don't think their isn't much cure for it.

At any rate I was fed up with it so I ordered a basic disc brake adapter kit from Scarebird. I chose them because they are 50 bucks cheaper than the competition and they are CAD plated to reduce rust. I then ordered the listed recommended parts from Rock Auto. The adapter kit fits great. No trouble at all just bolt it on, and original 14 inch rims fit right on. They give you models for 3 lengths of brake hoses with 17 inch being the longest. That just barely works and would be nicer at 18 inches. But 17 works. I stayed with my single master cylinder to keep the original look, Even though a dual master clyinder would be safer I'm fine with it. The single cylinder works just fine and didn't require a proportioning valve either. Now I can take someone a ride anytime and not be embarrassed.
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