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Another '56 Fury
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-06 3:47 PM (#606470 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Painting the springs that way is wasted effort in my opinion. You only see them when they are relaxed, so you never really witness what they look like in the stretched position anyway. I can guarantee you that the factory didn't go to that much trouble to paint them. I'm sure they just dipped them and called it good. Here is a picture of my newly painted springs. If you zoom in, you can barely see the line of paint that occurred from painting them this way, but even in the stretched state, you won't notice unless you *really* get close to them.

My repairs to the ends of the hood came out really well. I was really pleased with the results and I fixed another rip in the side of it, close to the front. But I also welded the skin to the cross brace which was loose. I'm not sure if the factory even welded them there as I didn't see a clear indication of any spot weld. But after putting them together and welding, it became obvious that I welded them together in the wrong spot because now the ends of the hood stick up too high compared to everything else. Bummer, because I did a good job of tacking them in place. It's going to be fun cutting those spot welds back out now.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-12-06 3:49 PM




(56Fury White Hood Spring.jpg)



(56Fury White Hood Problem.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury White Hood Spring.jpg (177KB - 183 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury White Hood Problem.jpg (149KB - 182 downloads)
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westaus29
Posted 2020-12-06 7:47 PM (#606478 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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That is a tricky repair on the hood. Most people would be looking for a new hood! I guess it helps that the damage was in a constrained area. My hood sticks up at the corners too, but not so much. The manual suggests a bunch of ways to do adjustments that don't really cover it. Drill out the spot welds - I had to do that with my 38 trunk latch after I positioned it wrong and it wasn't as bad as I thought, despite having done the spot welds with a mig.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-11 2:11 AM (#606613 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: RE: Another '56 Fury



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I will drill the spot welds out to fix it, but I am putting it off for now because I don't want to deal with it yet. I figured out that it's best if I only work on stuff I want to so that something gets done. If I try to force myself to do something I don't really want to, nothing gets done. Psychology tricks even work on yourself.

I decided to tackle the disc brake conversion. I am putting 12" rotors on this car from AAJ. I used the 11" version on my Savoy, but I like the idea of this one better since these cars come with 15" wheels, and it doesn't require tapping my spindle. However, it does require using Dodge hubs because that's what he designed it for and they are a little different. But I found that there is only a small difference in height between them so I am going to try to make it work with the Plymouth hubs first. But I do have one set of Dodge hubs in case it all goes wrong. Ultimately, I have 4 cars that I would like to convert, and I don't want to have to round up Dodge hubs for them all, so it's a good time to figure it out. One drawback to this design is that it moves the wheel outward by around 9/16". Hopefully, I can get some wheels with a little more offset to account for it. Installing the new studs into the hubs isn't easy as the hub wasn't originally splined, but they do go in with some persuasion. Roger suggests drilling the hub first to 21/32", but I didn't do that.



(56Fury White Hub Conversion.jpg)



(56Fury White 12in Disc Conversion.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury White Hub Conversion.jpg (210KB - 185 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury White 12in Disc Conversion.jpg (236KB - 184 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-12 1:14 PM (#606642 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I received the two new heater core housings in the mail that I had purchased and put the best one on the car. The firewall looks a whole lot better now with a decent box on there. I may need to swap the steering box out of this car. When I turn the wheel, it has a lumpy feel to it that doesn't feel right. The box from the rusty fury was good, but is for a manual transmission. Hopefully, the shaft and box are the same on it.



(56Fury White Heater Box.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2020-12-12 4:01 PM (#606653 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Nice work, looks great!
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westaus29
Posted 2020-12-13 6:02 AM (#606670 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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That firewall is looking A1!

Had a thought last night and went looking in my bookshelf, found a soft cover book about Furys that I bought some time ago from UK then forgot about. You may already have it, if not the price is good at $A32, at least to Oz. I dont know what the web page will look like from your end, but to me it says free postage to Oz.

https://blackwells.co.uk/bookshop/product/Plymouth-Fury-Limited-Edit...
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-18 4:18 PM (#606872 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: RE: Another '56 Fury



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Thanks Sven & Jim. Did that book have useful info in it?

The 12" disc brake conversion is less straight forward on this car because AAJ designed it for the Dodge, which has deeper hubs and spaces the wheel .275" further outward. I have a set of Dodge hubs, but I don't really want to use them because the conversion already moves the wheel out by 9/16". Adding .275" to that could make it necessary to purchase custom offset wheels, which I don't want to have to do. The wheels I am going to use have a .25" offset so pushing them out 5/16" shouldn't be an issue and that's where I want to keep it. Also, I have 3-4 cars to convert and only one set of Dodge hubs so it would be better to make it work without having to gather up a bunch of Dodge hubs too.

So I had to figure out how to modify this conversion to work with the Plymouth hubs. First, the Dodge hubs also have a thinner flange than the Plymouth (Dodge hubs are on the right in the photo). AAJ relied on the extension of the shoulders on the studs to center the rotor to them. This is no longer possible to do on the Plymouth hubs because of the extra thickness. There is still some play to the rotor when centering on the studs, so I wasn't very happy with that solution anyway. The Plymouth hubs have a machined shoulder on the outside of them which is 1/2" smaller in diameter than the rotor hole. So I cut out some 1/4" plate and bent it into a circle by hammering it around a used crank timing gear, which happens to have the same diameter as the hub. After inserting my ring into the rotor, I hammered it more round to eliminate any gaps on it. Then I welded the ends together while still inside the rotor. Once I cleaned up the welds and was happy with the fit, I welded that ring to the bottom side of the spacer that AAJ provides to go under the hubs. These spacers are required to provide clearance to prevent the rotor from hitting the bracket mounting bolts. Now the rotor will center on the rings attached to these spacers and they fit quite tightly.



(56 Dodge Plymouth Front Hubs.jpg)



(56Fury White Modified Hub Spacer.jpg)



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Attachments 56 Dodge Plymouth Front Hubs.jpg (238KB - 178 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury White Modified Hub Spacer.jpg (239KB - 177 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-18 4:47 PM (#606873 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Next, I needed to move the caliper back by.275" to match the Dodge position, but I found that I didn't have to move it the entire amount if I didn't want to. The outer pad will become smaller and move the caliper closer inboard over time. If the bracket is too far out, it can eventually come off of the pins that hold it on. But I found the minimum amount I had to move it in was around 1/8" to ensure that it didn't have an issue with it. I decided to move them .25" inboard, but 3/16", which is half of the bracket thickness would have also worked well. I cut the mounting tabs off the bracket and used another bracket as a jig to hold everything in place while I tack welded it together. They came out well, but the tabs ended up slightly bending the caliper location in a non-parallel way during the welding process, so I had to straighten the bracket after welding it.

I should mention that if you don't drill the hubs to 21/32" like Roger suggests, that you need to support the hub well from behind and use a large hammer to pound them in. It really requires the impact to get them to move & create mating splines and a press just isn't able to do this.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-12-18 5:05 PM




(56Fury White Modified Caliper Bracket.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-20 11:08 AM (#606903 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Final picture of completed brakes. I had to grind a weld blob off the inside of my 15" disc wheels to prevent them from rubbing so they require deep disc brake wheels, but they do work with them.

I inspected the 318 poly motor for this car and it had 2 stuck valves that I was able to free up by soaking with WD40 and whacking with a soft-blow hammer a couple times. Now all the valves are free, but I still can't turn the motor more than 90 degrees. It seems there is some crud built up inside one or more of the cylinders. I don't have a free engine stand to be able to tear down a motor, so that means I will install the motor into the car and move it out of the way until I get the New Yorker running. It's unfortunate because I wanted to be able to drive the car to move it around, but at least it will have working brakes to tow it with. But I'll need to steal some good 15" wheels from my other cars to be able to do that.



(56Fury White Disc Conversion Complete.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2020-12-20 2:58 PM (#606912 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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hah stopping power had been increased by tenfold...
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wizard
Posted 2020-12-20 3:58 PM (#606915 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Well Mike, perhaps not the immediate stopping power, but the drum brakes fades more quickly.

My '60 Saratoga with drum brakes at the inspection brake test had;

Front wheels 4.1 kN
Rear wheels 3.2 kN

Our 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring with disc brakes had;

Front wheels 2.6 kN
Rear wheels 1.8 kN

But more important is that the disc brakes normally always have an equal brake force, while the drum brakes might have a pull to one side and fades very fast, especially in high speed braking.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-20 7:29 PM (#606923 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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When I swapped my Savoy from 11" drums to the 11" discs, I noticed that it stopped about the same - as long as you didn't get the drums hot. Overall, I probably would have left those alone today because of how well they worked. The 12" drums on my '57-up cars, however, seemed to be much more finicky as they would suddenly catch on you or not catch at all. You could never guess what they needed or if they would work well when you needed them. All the money I spent into them was mostly wasted effort so I don't bother to fix them anymore. But if it works well already, I'll leave them alone.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-12-20 7:30 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-23 11:50 AM (#607001 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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When I pulled the old steering box from the car, I was surprised that I couldn't even turn the shaft without the steering wheel attached. It's really bound up inside. Makes me wonder what it would have been like to try and drive it with that in there. The bearing at the top of the shaft didn't turn real well either, but I cleaned and freed it up by applying oil to it and working it around. The steering box from the rusty Fury that I parted out was pretty decent so I cleaned that one up and installed it into the original column. I didn't see any differences between the manual trans version and the auto so it worked out well. Now the wheel turns smoothly as it should.



(56Fury White Steering Box Replaced.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2020-12-24 2:11 PM (#607061 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I swapped the '58 LH exhaust manifold onto the '64 poly motor so I could attach the pipes to it that I have. I didn't swap the '58 RH manifold because although correct for the '56 Fury, I don't like having the unused generator mount sticking out on it. I also inspected down the bores to see what its issue is and all the bores looked clean except for cylinder no. 3. That one is crusty from water getting into it. So that's the reason it won't turn more, but at least the rings on that cylinder are free. Since that head will need to be removed to fix it, I need to figure out how much I want to get into it to make it run. But I can't deal with it now so I went ahead and made it ready to install. I cleaned up & painted the '58 oil pan as the car requires the proper center sump, not the front sump from the '64 truck. But when I went to swap it out, I was surprised to find that the oil pump drive was completely different. The '64 uses a female hex drive on the pump whereas the '58 poly uses a male flat drive like the 392. Additionally, the mounting positions for it was completely different so I couldn't just swap the oil pumps over on them. In order to change the mount, I would have to swap rear main caps as well, but that's a big no-no for proper bearing positioning. So the only solution is to modify the truck sump to work with the '58 pan. What a pain. Since I will need to pull this motor again to work on it anyway, I just cut the sump so it would fit, put the pieces in the pan, and buttoned it up.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-12-24 11:33 PM




(1964 Truck 318 Poly Oil Pan & Pump.jpg)



(56Fury White Poly Temp Install.jpg)



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Attachments 1964 Truck 318 Poly Oil Pan & Pump.jpg (179KB - 172 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury White Poly Temp Install.jpg (217KB - 177 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-03 3:21 PM (#607373 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I received the replacement fender bracket from BigM and got it welded on. I'm ready now to start putting the inner fenders back together. I could have pulled this bracket off the rusty Fury that I parted, but I was foolish enough to get rid of the firewall before I thoroughly looked over this car to figure out what it needed. But thanks to John for pulling me through! I also bled the brakes and have a nice solid pedal. Only issue is that no fluid comes out of the rear bleeders. Most likely the rear hose has collapsed on it and it needs to be replaced. I just need enough brakes to tow it around so I'm not going to bother to fix it yet.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-01-03 3:31 PM




(56Fury White Fender Brace Replaced.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury White Fender Brace Replaced.jpg (82KB - 161 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-14 1:20 PM (#607713 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I had a crazy idea in my head that I couldn't shake - to fix the passenger fender from the rusty Fury to use on this car. I have a spare fender from a '55 Plymouth that's pretty nice, but in the end, I decided to use this one instead. If, for some reason, it fails miserably, I'll go back to the '55 fender, but so far, it's coming out well. Most of the rust issues this fender had was under the Fury trim. There are 5 patches required under that trim, but most are quite small. There are also couple of other issues at the edges of the fender, but nothing terrible. To patch it, I cut the rusty sections out and used them to find a matching contour on my scrap hood and cut it out. That way, I have a patch that fits perfectly to the original contour without having to bend it & create possible uneven stress issues in the metal. What makes this repair easier is the fact that I can get to both sides of the panel. So I have pretty good confidence that I should be able to pull it off without issues.



(56Fury Rt Fender Patches.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury Rt Fender Patches.jpg (128KB - 156 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-01-14 2:29 PM (#607717 - in reply to #607713)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Was it this fender? It doesn't look that rusty in this photo (yours):



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-14 6:17 PM (#607731 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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No, it was this fender. The fender you show, that came with the car, is completely rust free, but unfortunately, horribly bent and extremely difficult to straighten. It would require the work of a highly skilled psychiatrist to get that one on the straight and narrow.



(56Fury Rusty RF.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2021-01-14 6:33 PM (#607733 - in reply to #607731)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Powerflite - 2021-01-14 3:17 PM
No, it was this fender. The fender you show, that came with the car, is completely rust free, but unfortunately, horribly bent and extremely difficult to straighten. It would require the work of a highly skilled psychiatrist to get that one on the straight and narrow.


Maybe if you put that "bent" fender into a conversion therapy program, it would soon be straight (??)

This one:

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22mafeja
Posted 2021-01-15 2:58 AM (#607741 - in reply to #607731)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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I bet that the horribly bent fender is going to be repaired by you one day....challenges are refreshening..
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-24 12:20 PM (#608112 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Thanks for the confidence in me Ralf, but I think I have enough challenges to last me the rest of my life, so I'll let that one go to someone else to try.

I finished the welding and cleaned them up last week, and found some time between the rain yesterday to straighten the fender and get it primed. With it covered in a uniform color, I can see a couple of places it needs to be straightened better, so I'll do that before I paint white over it. There are also 2 spots that need some re-working with the welder and I need to re-drill the trim holes that have been eliminated. The two rear trim holes go behind the rear brace and require original style trim clips. I am considering drilling a large hole in the back of the brace so that I can use a trim clip with a nut on it instead. After that's done, I plan to paint it with some cheap white spray paint that's cluttering my garage. When this gets done for real, I will likely send this fender out to get all the underside & front panel sandblasted off at the same time as the left fender. So likely, all this paint will be stripped back off at that point. But that won't happen for a while so it's a good opportunity to use up the garbage paint I have for this purpose. I might end up finding a better fender for it by then and just swap it out as well to save me the extra final prep work that this one will require. I don't like doing temporary work, but in this case, it makes sense. My main goal here is to get it put together with working brakes & steering to make it easier to move & store until I am ready to devote more time into it.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-01-24 12:32 PM




(56Fury White Rt Fender Primed.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-28 11:28 AM (#608289 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Painted it up, installed the trim after tweaking it a little, and put the fender on. It's temporary, but it's much better than having the car in pieces with the trim getting lost or bent. I don't have the front arrow piece of trim, but fortunately, they have been reproduced. Just need to get a set of them. I still haven't fixed the hood yet and probably won't until I get back to working on the car. Next, I will install the grill and bumper. Only thing after that is to replace the door glass.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-01-28 11:30 AM




(56Fury White Fender On.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-01-31 12:02 PM (#608407 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I got the rest of the front end assembled on the car. I used the grille, valence, hood latch and bumper from the rusty Fury to put it together, along with some NOS grille brackets, used bumper guards, & headlight trim I had. Now I feel like it is put back together enough for it to store for a while. It's nice to have it all together, the motor in it, with good steering & brakes, and all the latches working. I still need to replace the door window, but it'll have to wait until the replacement for it arrives. I'll round up some 15" wheels so I can move it off the driveway and get back to working on the New Yorker & other small projects again.



(56Fury White Front Assembly.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury White Front Assembly.jpg (139KB - 118 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2021-01-31 12:19 PM (#608409 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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A good way to store the parts, even if the years will pass you'll still be able to find everything.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-05 3:12 PM (#608559 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I rounded up some good 15" disc wheels for the front and let the car down off the jacks only to find that the left rear spring has decided to self destruct. In this picture the right rear tire is completely flat and the left rear is fine. Nevertheless, the car is leaning heavily to the left because the left rear spring failed. It's bent in an upside-down u shape now with the axle very close to the bump stop, but it doesn't seem to have broken yet. Uhg. I wanted to move on to other projects, but I can't even get this off my driveway like this with how low it is. I'll have to drag the other frame I have over here to extract the springs and swap them out now.



(56Fury White Portside Lean.jpg)



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Attachments 56Fury White Portside Lean.jpg (147KB - 119 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-05 4:34 PM (#608560 - in reply to #608559)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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The broken spring is bad news. *BUT* the good news is you do have a parts car to cannibalize.

Why can't you just jack up and block the parts chassis and steal the left rear spring and carry it over to your driveway, swap the weak one out, swap the parts spring in and then carry the weak spring back to the parts chassis and install it?

(Just an idea to avoid moving the whole parts chassis).

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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-05 6:12 PM (#608562 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Removing old leaf springs takes a whole lot of umph. I could have handled that without power tools in my 30's, but not so much now. It might put me into an early grave. Also, I don't want to put it back together so this will likely signal the final demise of this Fury frame. I'll probably cut it up after this and throw it in the back of my truck for scrap.
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westaus29
Posted 2021-02-07 8:16 AM (#608596 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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I know how you feel - everything seems to be getting heavier the last couple of years. I am finding that stuff I stored high up on shelves back in 2013 is proving very difficult to get down safely. The other day I had to put the spare tyre back on the rear mount of our caravan and I couldnt lift the b@#$$% thing. My engine crane comes in handy but it isnt very maneuverable.

The good news is you have come a long way in 5 months since you posted the first pics. It has turned into a very presentable project.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-07 12:08 PM (#608603 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Thanks, I finished extracting the springs from the other fury frame and parted it out. Removing the large traction bars on it was the hardest part. I had to use a breaker bar with a long pipe extension and bounce on it. I also had to break off nearly every nut from the U-bolts as well, so my power tools didn't help me there. But I was able to do that while the assembly was removed from the frame, upside down, so it made it a lot easier. Unfortunately, I hurt my back by lifting and scooting the frame around using a long bar to lift it up. I guess I tried lifting it too far. Now I need to nurse my back for a while before messing with anything heavy.

I was wanting to work on other projects, but working on this car became my highest priority because the parts from the rusty Fury needed to go somewhere, I needed a good place to store the motor without taking up valuable space in my garage, and I didn't like the eye-sore of having this car torn apart the way it was with the side trim taped onto it & falling off. But I should be able to wrap this one up pretty soon so I can get to other things.



(56Fury Rusty Traction Bars.jpg)



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22mafeja
Posted 2021-02-07 1:14 PM (#608609 - in reply to #608603)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury


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When did those traction bars get invented? I made similar ones on a mustang once and they were exactly like on 1965 Shelby Mustang.



(IMG_3048xx.JPG)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-07 2:02 PM (#608612 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I believe they were invented in the early sixties once the drag racing scene came alive. This rusty Fury hasn't been registered since 1969, so they have got to be older than that. They are very similar to the new Cal-tracs bars that you can purchase today except those have more adjust-ability in them.
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-07 8:21 PM (#608624 - in reply to #608612)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Nathan: You are making good progress with this Fury, considering that you just want to store it for awhile. It's looking better that just "storage".

I have three paint questions:

1. When you painted the fender, did you match it "Eggshell" and, if so, how?

2. How close do you think 56 Plymouth "Eggshell" is to 56 Dodge "Sapphire" white?? (Probably not a fair question but I thought that I would ask any way):

3. Are there any Duplicolor spray bombs that are a good match for "Eggshell"?



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-07 9:49 PM




(56PlymouthPaintChipChart.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-07 9:54 PM (#608627 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I did match the eggshell white as you can see. If I didn't, it would look really off. I have a nice gallon of automotive eggshell white that I could have used, but instead, I painted it bright white with a spray can, and then misted an antique white over it while it was still wet. The antique white is way too yellow so I couldn't use that directly, but it came out surprisingly well the way I did it. I don't recommend you do it this way for anything you care about though. I only did this because it is temporary paint. I believe that all Chrysler corp whites were the same color, at least they are plenty close enough that it doesn't really matter. The only spray can that I have found that is close to the proper white is "Stone White" from the Duplicolor replacement paints. But those are super expensive for a very small can, and you are better off just buying professional single stage paint instead.
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56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-07 11:40 PM (#608628 - in reply to #608627)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Thanks for that Nathan. I don't know why I never saw "Stone White" in the Chrysler section of the Duplicolor rack before
but now I will be on the hunt for at least one can to try.

Seems to be called "PW1" or the more elaborate "CBCC0407". Looks pretty white.



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-07 11:41 PM




(DuplicolorChryslerStoneWhiteBCC0407_E7.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-10 4:08 PM (#608710 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I replaced the springs with the ones from the rusty Fury. Comparing them off the car, the original springs were flatter, even though they had helper springs mounted to the ends of them. So the other springs should raise the back of the car up better. The part number on the original springs is 1675690 which corresponds to the correct '56 Fury and D500 Dodge spring. The springs from the rusty Fury had part numbers 1636877. This corresponds to '55-'56 Plymouth & Dodge Suburban springs. No wonder why they are arched higher. I wonder at what point the rusty Fury got its original springs swapped out. Must have wanted the car higher like I do. I believe the Fury springs did sit the car down lower than a typical Belvedere so the lack of arch in them might be normal.

I decided to clean up the suburban springs and paint them before I installed them. And I installed some new Monroe load-adjusting shocks at the same time as well. These shocks are quite short so they hold the axle up when you lift the car. That makes it more difficult to remove & install large wheels, but they work out nevertheless. I like these shocks because the cars don't sag as much when you add 3 people in the back seat.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-02-10 9:24 PM




(56Fury White Leafs Replaced.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-10 4:37 PM (#608711 - in reply to #608710)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Ooooo....I am very envious of those 6 leaf 1675690 rear springs. Where did you find the PN stamped on the spring set? (I want to go check mine to see what my "D500 Lite" actually got.)

My pdf 55-58 Mopar Parts catalog decided to break today (it loads but then it locks up) but my hard copy 1956 Chryco Parts book agrees with 1675690 as the Fury/D500 spring but it suggests that the suburban springs were 1636877 (not 977). Hmmm...??

There were also heavy duty (taxi??) rear springs 1635594 (excluding the suburbans) and 1635602 heavy duty suburban.

Please point me to the PN location so I can go out to my freezing (-2C, 30F) garage and check.



Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-10 4:38 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-10 7:10 PM (#608713 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Sorry, the number is 1636877 as you mention. It was a typo as I wrote it and I have corrected it now. The part number is right under the u-bolt plate, on the bottom center of the spring. So you have to remove all the ubolt nuts and remove that plate to see it. It's inside the groove that runs along the spring.

The car sits much more to my liking now. I realized later that part of the reason the rear was sitting so low and oblong was because of the situation with the front tires. After checking it out more closely, I found that the rear springs were lower than I am used to, but probably mostly OK. The left rear was definitely sagging compared to the right rear, but probably livable if I had equal sized tires on front & rear. I will keep the original springs around in case I decide to go with a lower stance in the back, but I doubt I will ever go back to them. I also replaced both rear bumper guards. The right side had been bent up pretty badly for some reason, and the left one was mostly rusty looking.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-02-10 9:24 PM




(56Fury White Leveled.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-10 9:08 PM (#608718 - in reply to #608713)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Powerflite - 2021-02-10 4:10 PM
Sorry, the number is 1636877 as you mention. It was a typo as I wrote it. The part number is right under the u-bolt plate, on the bottom center of the spring. So you have to remove all the ubolt nuts and remove that plate to see it. It's inside the groove that runs along the spring.


The Fury looks much better with those springs.

So I went out to the garage (BRrrrr - even with the electric 3000W heater on for 4 hrs) and sprayed the bottom of the U-bolts on the left rear with Moovit. I let that sit for a while while I sorted through some things (finding a few things that I had "lost" for months).

Tried a few sockets on the U-bolt nuts and eventually figured that they were 3/4" plus dirt (NOT 13/16"). Cleaned one off and gave it a go with a deep 19 mm/3/4" 1/2" drive socket and my 30" breaker bar. I got it to move but it felt more like I was twisting off the end of the U-bolt than I was moving the nut. So I quit. No use opening yet another can of worms.

I only have five leaves in my rear springs so I know for sure (and always have) that I don't have the 6 leaf heavy duty D500/Fury rear springs. I am not sure how badly I need to know what the PN of my springs really is.

Adobe Reader is still broken even though I did a cold reboot of the computer so searching for parts just got a whole lot more difficult. DAY-UM.

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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-12 12:12 AM (#608773 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: RE: Another '56 Fury



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These wagon springs are 6 leaf too. I really like them. You can purchase a portable oxy-acetelyne torch from harbor-freight and use that to heat the nuts first before you remove them. Then quench in WD-40 or equivalent. That usually breaks them free without snapping U-bolts. If you get them red-hot, you should replace them though as it will destroy their temper.

I received the new glass in the mail 3 or 4 days ago so I went ahead and replaced the driver's door window while it's convenient. The old one was cracked in multiple places and coming apart. Made it a pain to deal with and it probably leaked rain water too. I put it together in the frame & holder with the original rubber, and just cleaned it up and applied a layer of silicone to ensure it stays put on the glass. When I assembled the frame, I had to adjust the end of it with a soft blow hammer to get it to seat properly. Apparently it wasn't soft enough because it cracked my new glass terribly. Ugh. Good thing I purchased two of them. So I pulled it back apart and re-assembled it with the second piece of glass and installed it into the door once the silicone had a chance to set. It came out pretty well, but it looks like the rear quarter window needs to be adjusted to come closer to the door window.



(56Fury White New Door Glass.jpg)



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GaryS
Posted 2021-02-12 10:00 AM (#608780 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I recently fixed that exact gap problem in my '56. It took me a while to figure it out, but it was the alignment of the guides at the rear of the quarter window hanging up on the stainless frame on the bottom of the glass. It might save you some time to look there first.


Edited by GaryS 2021-02-12 10:03 AM
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-12 8:57 PM (#608806 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Thanks Gary, I'll check that out once I delve into it. For the time being, I have moved this off my driveway now to work on other projects.
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Powerflite
Posted 2021-04-12 7:06 PM (#610957 - in reply to #602662)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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I received a pair of new reproduction '56 Fury arrows from George today. They look really nice and the stud seems to be much more sturdy than the originals. The studs are brazed on the backsides instead of spot welded. The spot welds tend to be very weak and break off the trim with the slightest twisting force applied to them. Unfortunately, he told me this was the last set he had to sell. They will need to make another run of them in order to make more. Not sure if that's going to happen.



(56Fury White Trim Tips.jpg)



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1960fury
Posted 2021-04-12 8:07 PM (#610959 - in reply to #608612)
Subject: Re: Another '56 Fury



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Powerflite - 2021-02-07 2:02 PM

I believe they were invented in the early sixties once the drag racing scene came alive. This rusty Fury hasn't been registered since 1969, so they have got to be older than that. They are very similar to the new Cal-tracs bars that you can purchase today except those have more adjust-ability in them.



I'm pretty sure I saw these in ads in late 50s magazines.
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