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Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> 1955-1961 Forward Look MoPar General Discussion | Message format |
JouniK |
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Regular Posts: 52 Location: Finland | Hello! I came across to a 1957 FL car with many modifications. For example the front suspension is converted to coilovers and rack and pinnion steering with tubular upper control arms. I have not seen any company making such kits, are there any? Or is that just something someone has build themself? Its not some mustang II-based setup, the lower control arms work like the original mopar control arms, with adjustable strut rods. J | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | Why would you care? You planning to drag race with it? | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | nah i think there was a fatman setup? But that sounds custom.... Honestly though it is probably way worse than factory Even 57 engiineering and testing is better than throwing crap at a front suspension
Edited by mikes2nd 2021-06-20 2:39 PM | ||
JouniK |
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Regular Posts: 52 Location: Finland | Powerflite - 2021-06-20 12:37 PM Why would you care? You planning to drag race with it? No, I consider buying it.. J | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3768 Location: NorCal | Pics of the setup would help form an opinion. | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3966 Location: DFW, TX | How could we tell you if it is better or worse than stock without knowing what changes have been made and how well it was fabricated? Clearly the suspension design you describe is superior to how the car was built stock. Parallel torsion bars, drum brakes, and steering boxes were on their way out 50 years ago. Some possible benefits from a steering/suspension/brake swap would be that the car will ride better, steer better, handle better, stop better, and ride lower. But it all depends on how it was done. And if you're outside of the US, there is a very real chance it would have to be high quality work to be legal to register and drive. | ||
JouniK |
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Regular Posts: 52 Location: Finland | 57burb - 2021-06-21 8:30 AM How could we tell you if it is better or worse than stock without knowing what changes have been made and how well it was fabricated? Clearly the suspension design you describe is superior to how the car was built stock. Parallel torsion bars, drum brakes, and steering boxes were on their way out 50 years ago. Some possible benefits from a steering/suspension/brake swap would be that the car will ride better, steer better, handle better, stop better, and ride lower. But it all depends on how it was done. And if you're outside of the US, there is a very real chance it would have to be high quality work to be legal to register and drive. I´m sorry if I was not clear enough with my question. I was just wondering if there is a company who makes a such kit. (202844325_304998431317029_4658999979371284223_n.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 202844325_304998431317029_4658999979371284223_n.jpg (160KB - 109 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | That looks custom. I don't know of any kit like that, made for these cars. As expected for such an "upgrade", a GM TH400 trans and what looks like a digital speedometer. I hope the same welder that made the right side collector attachment didn't do the suspension changes too. I wouldn't trust this thing at all. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's a homemade thing, looks under demensioned. I would not own such a car | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | Show me a FL car with a radical modified front end and straight rear axle and I show you a car done by an ignorant fool. While the front end, even after 65 years, is almost 2021 super car standard, the heavy straight axle is 1000+ year old technology that leaves much to be desired. Only a complete idiot would make such an illogical modification. | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3966 Location: DFW, TX | It's a suspension design change that COULD work, but I don't think it was done as well as it could have been. I take some issue with the placement of the steering rack; while the wheels are pointed straight (as shown), the arms of the rack should be in a straight line with the steering arms out at the wheels. If not, there will be excessive geometry change while steering. It's not terrible. What is a real problem is the lower control arm fitment. They have removed much of the strength of the factory crossmember to fit those custom control arms. Notice how flimsy the area now is where the bolts are going through. I've circled what my eye says is inadequate material to support a 4000+ pound car travelling at highway speeds. A made arrows to show just how close those bolts are to the edge of the crossmember. IMO they will rip right out with a minor collision against a curb or pothole. I wouldn't buy this car without a plan to fix that problem. And I would like to see the new upper mount area for the coil over shock. That is now load bearing. (frontend.JPG) Attachments ---------------- frontend.JPG (69KB - 113 downloads) | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1739 Location: Alaska | One other reason I would never buy this car is the installation of a Chevy V-8 engine and transmission. I do not consider myself a purist but there are many very good Chrysler built engines that would look and fit better than a Chevy. | ||
AceS |
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Veteran Posts: 281 Location: WA/USA | It's nice to see some logical analysis and feedback such as provided by 57 Burb. I also this this is a one-off job. In addition to the lower control arm bolt and cross member modification comments, I will add that the strut rods originally have two bolts securing each of them to the lower control arm, ...now only one bolt each. Assuming the same bolt diameter and type, that is now 1/2 the strength as the engineer's original design. This is going to further contribute to the question about durability of the lower control arm set up. Not a great installation for the bottom half. Probably fine for cruise night, but I would not be thrilled about it for real world driving. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | I don't think that strut rod bolt is a problem, if it is of good quality. I would require a huge force to make it shear. Actually this is the only improvement I see, as it is ball joint connection that does not stress the lower bushing like the rigid original OE design. The OE strut rod always always tilts the LCA (stresses the lower bushing) during suspension travel. Edited by 1960fury 2021-06-24 10:40 AM | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1739 Location: Alaska | I believe those are Heim joints on the ends of the strut rods. They were not meant to be used in the dirty environment under a car since they are not sealed and would wear quickly. Most of the mods on this car were not built to last in the long term. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | 58coupe - 2021-06-24 11:41 AM I believe those are Heim joints on the ends of the strut rods. They were not meant to be used in the dirty environment under a car since they are not sealed and would wear quickly. Most of the mods on this car were not built to last in the long term. Yes, this is what I was thinking about the Heim joints. In Germany it would be absolutely impossible to get a registration for that car, possible, they would seize the car upon inspection. The law system in the US and Germany are entirely different. In the US, the land of the free, more self-responsibility is required, which is of course the better approach, but the drawback is, in case something happens, you are in trouble, serious trouble. | ||
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