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| Hello All, I have installed AAJ front break kit on my Windsor. Looking for other people that may have used them What are you running for a Master Cylinder.
I installed a universal Master, one from speedway motors with a 1" bore, and a Proportioning I also have installed a remote booster from MP brakes for the front brakes. And i just can't get a hard pedal. I have tried bleeding them every which way and can't get a pedal i get just a little bite right before the floor. I like the 2 channel master for safety since i will not be the only one driving this car. But I'm ready to just rip out all the after market brake parts and just put stock back in. Any Advice ? Thanks in advanced. |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
I would like to see photos of your install. I have AAJ's (Roger's) kit for my 56 Dodge D500 with 56 Windsor 12" x 2.5" brakes (and uprights and 4 square spindles) that I haven't installed yet.
Del S. (Dels56) installed an AAJ kit on his 56 Dodge (with normal 56 Dodge brakes) but has had problems getting a good pedal feel.
I think he went from a 1.00" dual master to a 1.032" dual master and was still not happy with the pedal. He seems to be heading towards a 1.125" dual master.
This thread (lots of good info in there):
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=74238&...
Edited by 56D500boy 2022-01-18 4:34 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Theoretically a larger bore Mc will have less pedal travel, but will require more pedal pressure to apply the brakes, so with power brake booster you should have a better pedal feel. Make sure pedal ratio is in spec also. |
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| Thank you both, good food for thought. I am going to look into that stuff. |
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Extreme Veteran
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| Hi Twotallkris, I installed AAJ on the front of my 56 Dodge Custom Royal. 11” drums, Manual - No power brakes. Installed a new 1.032” bore master and tried my darndess to get a solid pedal. Bled, bled, bled. Ripped the rears apart and installed 2 new wheel cylinders. Still soft, soft. Next step was another master, this time 1.062”. A little better but still soft so I ordered another master...1.125”. Now I have a solider pedal and the pedal travel is approx 1/3 of the total travel. I do have a GM style proportion valve in the system. I am not 100% satisfied with the stiffness compared to my 71 Scamp with drums all around, so I am considering one other option. I read a post but cannot remember the site where it mentioned that single piston callipers “may” need a 2 psi residual pressure valve. I also read, if the master is located below the floor boards, like on a rod, you need a residual valve. I am sitting in the sun in Mexico at this time and experimenting with a residual valve will just have to wait until I get home in April.
Del S |
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | A master designed for disc brakes would normally have a 2# residual built in. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9894
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Del: Does your margarita-addled, sun-baked, brain happen to remember which 1.125" dual master you selected in the end?
Chris will want to know, as will I because we are both looking at 56 Windsor 12" x 2.5" brake systems.
Just so you know, it is still nice and chilly and damp here (Vancouver). But the grass is green.
So is the fence and anything else that algae/moss will grow on.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 345
| Chris, the 1.125” bore master cylinder I ended up using is a Raybestos MC36283 which I ordered on Amazon. Summit Racing also show it.
Note this master cylinder does not have a stopper to keep the piston from coming out of the bore. I fabricated a stopper and drilled and tapped the M/C body to hold it in place. Sorry I don’t have photos to post.
Del S |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 345
| Shep. Thanks for adding that note. It makes me feel better about adding a residual valve. I am/was concerned that it may cause a bit of drag but I was going to give it a try.
Del S |
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Member
Posts: 37
| Wow Thank you guys for this great info, you give me a little more motivation, To keep trying to make this work. Hopefully going to get back into this in the next few months. My old girl needs some frame work before i proceed any further with the brakes but it gives me time to think. I have been looking into the bigger bore masters this morning and I've noticed The port sizes on them are bigger then the 3/8 -24 that the current master uses, (except for the 400 MC from Baer )would there be any harm in using a reducer to reduce the larger port sizes to 3/8. The proportioning valve inlets are 3/8-24.
Thanks Guys |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 345
| I knw this is late but....modified master cylinder
del S
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Member
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| Thanks Dels, Had a few setbacks but going to dive into this when things slow down in the fall so the pictures help. Thanks again ! |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: So. Cal | I've done disc conversions on over 20 vehicles over the years and got all of them to work well. I've used 1.032" and 1.25" masters, and both work fine, though the 1.032" does have more travel. The only times I've ever had a soft pedal were because of:
1. Rear drums needed to be adjusted tighter.
2. Front line going in at bottom of junction block, with plug at top. The plug at top traps air that is difficult/impossible to get out. Always go in from the top with the proper size tube nut and plug the bottom port.
3. Using standard purchased plug. Trying to seal them will destroy your junction block. Instead make your own plug with a very short cut line that is welded or brazed shut.
4. Heli-coil in caliper bleeder. Crap repair. Get a different caliper.
5. Missing hardware or other problems with rear brakes.
If you've done #2 & #3 properly, the vast majority of the time, the problem is because of the rear brakes. You can use a proper hose clamp to clamp off the rear brake hose to see if that solves your problem. The clamp can internally destroy an old brittle hose, but new hoses should be fine with it. If you are concerned about it. keep the old hose on there and discard it afterward. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9647
Location: So. Cal | Another rare problem I've encountered was a bad master right out of the box. The one I had issues with was brand new, made in china, but that's only happened once. |
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Member
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Location: Iowa | I had the 12" front brake kit installed on my '55 Dodge CRL from AAJ Brakes. I am running discs in front and drums in the rear. I used the master cylinder that was recommended to me by Roger. Centric: 130.6306. I also used the Power Brake Booster from the Right Stuff: RPB 8001C. The install went well and now I have really good brakes! But, it if your going to stick with the booster that is on your car, you may find it difficult to fit it in due to your power steering.
Edited by Chessie6057 2022-11-11 4:44 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9894
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Good info.
I just checked Rock Auto and they show a bunch of Centric master cylinders under the number 1306306. Which one did you use?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?mfr=CENTRIC&parttype=1836&pa...
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Location: Iowa | Actually..... None of the ones listed there. I used the one with the cast iron housing. I ordered it from roger at AAJ Brakes only because Summit Racing had a back order on them. I will try to load a picture of it installed on my car. * I have since replaced the pressure brake light switch with a manual one off of the brake pedal. Works better... you really had to stand on the brakes to get the brake lights to come on with the initial install!
Edited by Chessie6057 2022-11-12 1:17 PM
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55 CRL New Brake MC & Booster Complete.jpg (99KB - 88 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
That set up looks very tasty. Do you recall which Disk/Drum master and which proportioning valve you used?
A blow up of your set up:
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Location: Iowa | Thanks, the installer used to be a race car driver, and he really had an eye for clean installs! I was very impressed when we popped in to see his progress on the project and saw how he did the install. Looking back at the quote from Summit Racing (not where I ordered mine from) They listed the MC as 130.63055 (Microsoft Excel was being helpful and rounded my part number up for me! Sorry for any confusion!) from Centric. and the proportioning valve I used I ordered from Roger as well. I texted him to ask what brand and part number he sent me. (Update: Roger said they get the proportioning valves from MBM, He did not mention a model number.)
Edited by Chessie6057 2022-11-12 6:32 PM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i like AAJ |
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Location: Iowa | Agreed...... Roger not only offers great products, but put up with me calling him multiple times to ensure I had a good handle on the plan! |
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Location: Iowa | Chessie6057 - 2022-11-11 4:41 PM
I had the 12" front brake kit installed on my '55 Dodge CRL from AAJ Brakes. I am running discs in front and drums in the rear. I used the master cylinder that was recommended to me by Roger. Centric: 130.63055. I also used the Power Brake Booster from the Right Stuff: RPB 8001C. The install went well and now I have really good brakes! But, it if your going to stick with the booster that is on your car, you may find it difficult to fit it in due to your power steering. Corrected Centric MC part number |
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Member
Posts: 37
| Hello All, So i am finally back working on my brakes. I had a chat with Roger a few months back and he recommend that centric Master and the Right stuff 8" booster referenced above. I was able to fit the setup in the Windsor but I had to rotate the Generator/power steering reservoir back towards the air cleaner. Assuming I put shorter belts on that generator does anyone see and issue with rotating that over. ( It is more level now, before it was very much tilted to the right)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9894
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Both the Eaton and Vickers Generator-driven PS pumps are designed to be "clocked" (rotated) to a more vertical position, so what you are doing will be more than fine (assuming you can find the shorter belts that you now need).
My Vickers pump, clocked more vertical (but still not hitting the OE air cleaner shell).
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AAJ Front Brake kit on a 56 windsor
