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 New BBD Carb Linkage IssueJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149   Location: Iowa | I have a 1957 Belvedere with a Poly 301. I have had a lot of trouble with the original Carter 2 barrel carb. I finally ordered a new one and installed it. It looked pretty well made for something from China and it bolted on easy. After a few adjustments the car ran much better than before and idled the best I had ever heard it. BUT I have a big problem with the accelerator linkage. The current set up had a rod that PUSHED the connector arm on the old carb and the new carb needs to be PULLED toward the firewall. I read that later 318s used a cable system. I attached photos. Any suggestions on how to make this work? Is there an adaptor to convert the rods forward motion into a pull back? I have to believe I am not the first one to run into this. (Orginal BBD carb and linkage2.JPG) (New BBD carb2.JPG) Attachments ----------------  Orginal BBD carb and linkage2.JPG (41KB - 90 downloads) New BBD carb2.JPG (42KB - 93 downloads) | ||
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| mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500    Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Push to pull? If the linkage was above the center line by the same amount; wouldn't that work? Or 'Z' it. Edited by mstrug 2022-04-06 6:31 PM (pushpull1.gif) Attachments ---------------- pushpull1.gif (2KB - 98 downloads) | ||
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| mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | |||
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| mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9666  Location: So. Cal | |||
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| ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4042 Location: Connecticut | |||
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| SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149 Location: Iowa | |||
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| SaratogaFan |
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Veteran Posts: 149 Location: Iowa | |||
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| 59Firedome |
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Member Posts: 46 Location: Gooding, ID | I had the same problem swapping my original BBD for my '59 Firedome 383 to a newer rebuild Chrysler BBD. This is how you do it, bolt a bracket on to the new carb but make sure you connect the throttle linkage below the pivot point. Bring it down as far as you can towards the intake manifold, and you're all set. No welding needed, just drill hole in the bracket and off you go  (51984012577_f278fef7d6_c.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 51984012577_f278fef7d6_c.jpg (129KB - 89 downloads) | ||
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| 59Firedome |
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Member Posts: 46 Location: Gooding, ID | |||
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| local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9666 Location: So. Cal | Nice, it works better with a cuban though.  An old mechanic showed me a trick of using un-lit acetylene to blow around the carb. When you come near a vacuum leak, the idle speed increases from the inflow of acetylene. Using a thick, fine toothed file is a good method to assure flatness. But that's the benefit of a new manufactured carb. You don't have all the wear on the shafts to worry about - yet. | ||
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| local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Powerflite - 2022-04-07 1:24 PM Nice, it works better with a cuban though. An old mechanic showed me a trick of using un-lit acetylene to blow around the carb. When you come near a vacuum leak, the idle speed increases from the inflow of acetylene. Using a thick, fine toothed file is a good method to assure flatness. But that's the benefit of a new manufactured carb. You don't have all the wear on the shafts to worry about - yet. Thinking I only had a throttle shaft leak I used a unlit propane torch and was getting idle speed increases around the whole carb more or less. Not thinking I had leaks between the carb bodies, I felt the fan blades were blowing the propane around and being sucked down the throat of the carb increasing the idle. The nice thing about the smoke test is you see exactly where the smoke is coming from without the engine running. Really didn't have to exhale harder than normal and the smoke was showing where the leaks were. Edited by local2Ed 2022-04-07 1:58 PM | ||
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