I just thought it would make the crank weaker by taking off material. I have read that these Dodge crankshafts had some problems with cracking. It is unusual for a V-8 engine not to have a vibration damper. I do want to have the rotating assembly fully balanced. I am just not familiar with how much material one can take off a crankshaft for resurfacing before it becomes compromised.

I have built severable motors in the past but used new crankshafts & bearings. From what I can tell, there are no "new" crankshafts made for the 270 hemi. This is all new for me. You do bring up a good point about stroker builds.

I found the post of the Dodge with the 241 hemi that was rebuilt. IT was "dodge59" under the subject title "rod knock in my 241 hemi".  This is an excellant post of which I would like to follow with my 270 hemi rebuild.  I am sure that a majority of what was done to his 241 can be applied to to my 270. 

I did find a shop in Richmond not far from me to regrind the crank, I just need to find the best crankshaft  with the least amount to regrind.. I do have a question, however.  Is there a better particular crankshaft cast # to choose from. I have three of which one is from my convertible # 1671108, the other is in my parts car which the motor is still in the car but that i know has bad journals due to it's low oil pressure. The third is from a 270 motor I purchased from E-Bay that is in storage (This motor was bored 0.060" but a sonic test measured very thin walls in several cylinders in the THRUST portion - I found this out after it was purchased) .  I just need to get it out and obtain the number. 

I am also going to talk with this shop to see if they are familiar with early hemi rebuilds..  This offically starts the process for my rebuild

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270 block.jpg (35KB - 91 downloads)

In your opinion, would it be worthwile to do a engine block main bearing alignment bore hone.. Is this an expensive prochedure? 

Thanks 56D500boy, Mopar 1 and others for the reply about the same functionally of the 241 & 270 except for the bore size. This will be of a great help when going over what dodge59 did for his rebuild..

I have been digging out the various parts I have been working on for this rebuild but want to check if I have the right distributer for recurving the advance. Here is a photo

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IMG_9816.JPG (83KB - 81 downloads)

IMG_9817.JPG (121KB - 83 downloads)

IMG_9821.JPG (30KB - 87 downloads)

Planning on keeping the 6 volt electrical system which limits my options. Need to go over in detail what dodge59 did to recurve his dist.  I just wanted to know if I had the correct dist. to start with. I brushed over when reading dodge59's if he had any luck in using the petronic (spelling?) 6 volt version 

I went to the Pertronix site and came up with this for the dual point conversion for my Auto-lite disrtibutor

https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-1385lsp6-ignitor-chrysler-dual-point-8-cyl-6-volt-pos-grd

Need to download insruction manual for that part. It mentions 6 volts, positive ground application.

I added a pdf attachment below but could not open it to view on this post

I removed the pdf., Thanks for the heads up

I took the crankshaft out of storage from the 270 hemi I purchased on E-Bay (Has the same cast number as the convertible engine - 1671108)  Cleand up the rod jornals which looked real bad with heavy score marks.  The worst journal was for piston #5 on the #5/#6 journal which measured 1.880"   1.9375 - 1.880 = 0.0575"  If my math is correct (0.575") is to much to have turned.  Do they even make under size bearings for 0.060" ? measurements of 4 areas around the journal indicated that it was sort of egg shaped. I'll post some pictures later.  I do not think this would be a good canidate to be machined.   

Update - not good news about my cylinder heads for there were several cracks found. One major crack was found in the combustion chamber dish from the exhaust valve to the to the face of the head. There were numerous spider like cracks from the cooling water holes. I highlighted the cracks with a black marker. Can these type of cracks be repaired or is this head just a boat anchor?

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