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 Any "Gotchas" when removing a solid lifter from an exposed lifter gallery?Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182     Location: Lower Mainland BC | . As part of a long-postponed project, I have the need to remove and replace a solid lifter in my 56 D500 hemi engine. I will be removing the intake manifold (I have previously removed and replaced the intake manifold bolts) and then the lifter galley cover. I will also remove the push rod in question before attemping (?) to remove the lifter in question (suspected to be hydraulic lifter). I have watched videos by "Uncle Tony" when he has described the goodness of a 318 poly engine and captured images of the exposed poly lifter gallery. It looks like there is lots of room to slide a lifter up and out of its bore. However, I recently discovered that I also have a photo of a 315 hemi lifter gallery and it looks way way (impossibly?) tight. Maybe it is just a poor photo (??) I don't want to open up a can of worms that I can't close again. These photos: Edited by 56D500boy 2023-02-09 1:58 AM (318PolyLifterGallery_1.jpg) (318PolyLifterGallery_2.jpg) (56D500LifterGallery.jpg) Attachments ----------------  318PolyLifterGallery_1.jpg (144KB - 277 downloads) 318PolyLifterGallery_2.jpg (148KB - 282 downloads) 56D500LifterGallery.jpg (149KB - 297 downloads) | ||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 488 | |||
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| Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3185  Location: N.W. Fla. | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Del: Thanks for that. I don't have such a tool. I have been accused of being one, but I don't have one per se.  Do I hear McGyver calling? I am a bit concerned/scared that the bottom of the lifter in question is mushroomed. That will be a killer.  I don't know how poly rockers work with a single rocker shaft but with a Gen 1 double rocker hemi, the rockers are held in position by a spring. As a result, once I have loosened the adjustment screw enough, I will be able so slide the rocker over to the side (and probably wire it there while I mess with the push rod and lifter). On my D500 double rocker 315 hemi the lifters are solid. I have a new one to use (after I clean them up) so I won't need to do any of that pumping up stuff (which was good to know for my next engine (I like the idea of the 57 325 D500 hemi with its hydraulic lifters and camshaft).  | ||
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| samstrader |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 469 Location: Beaumont TX | |||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 488 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | dels56 - 2023-02-09 8:42 PM Taking the rockers off is easy. When you put it back together, adjusting the valves is a different story. We can cover that when you are further along. Del Del: On a Gen 1 double rocker hemi, the bolts that hold the rocker shafts down *ARE* the headbolts (See the photo above). This is in contrast to the poly engine where the rocker shaft is held to the head separately from the head bolts (see photo below - which should be the same as your 315 poly). My 315 D500 hemi's case, I just need to slide the No. 8 Intake rocker over (after backing off the adjuster enough) and then pull the pushrod out. Not sure if I can get either your suggested lifter puller or Sam's suggested magic (on a wand) down the push rod hole. As for the solid lifter valve adjustment, I went through this before (back in 2017). Since my engine is a hemi, I could determine TDC by pulling the spark plug out and using a long screw driver or a wooden dowel to determine when the piston was in a position (all the way) up and both intake and exhaust valves were fully closed. At least that is the way I did it back then. Engine was cold (ish) (about 20 C) http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=65823&... Edited by 56D500boy 2023-02-10 2:19 AM (56DodgePolyEngineWithIntakeAndValveCoversOff.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56DodgePolyEngineWithIntakeAndValveCoversOff.jpg (188KB - 289 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Based on this photo, I am now convinced that I WILL NOT be able to remove a lifter in my 315 hemi without removing the head. I am NOW convinced that the lifters can not be removed or installed without the head being off. The large holes in the block at the push rod positions are for the lifters. (Ignore the "LOOK". I have no idea what that is about) Previous photo but the holes were not as obvious as those above: Edited by 56D500boy 2023-03-10 9:05 PM | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10542  Location: So. Cal | Dave, I have no idea why you have come to that erroneous conclusion. I replaced the lifters on my 325 poly already and didn't remove the heads. 1. Remove intake & valve covers. 2. Remove or loosen rockers. 3. Remove valley cover. 4. Remove pushrod upward. 5. Remove lifter inside the valley area. You can't take it through the head anyway. It comes out in the valley area. This is a picture of my engine when I did this work. (Dry Lifters.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Dry Lifters.jpg (240KB - 285 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2023-03-10 5:18 PM Dave, I have no idea why you have come to that erroneous conclusion. I replaced the lifters on my 325 poly already and didn't remove the heads. 5. Remove lifter inside the valley area. You can't take it through the head anyway. It comes out in the valley area. I guess I am basing my "erroneous" conclusion on the fact that, from all the photos that I have seen to date, including yours now, I cannot see where there is enough room to manipulate the lifter up and out of the lifter bore. If you have done it with your 325 poly, I will have to assume that I will be able to do it with my 315 wide-head, double-rocker, D500 hemi. Here is a photo of your 325 poly turned 90 deg. and a D500 engine that I found photos of on eBay. Maybe maybe maybe I can see what I need to see and accept, i.e it is doable. Edited by 56D500boy 2023-03-11 1:28 PM (NathansKDS325PolyLifterGallery_Casting1739429-1.jpg) (56D500LifterGallery.jpg) Attachments ---------------- NathansKDS325PolyLifterGallery_Casting1739429-1.jpg (149KB - 295 downloads) 56D500LifterGallery.jpg (143KB - 253 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-03-11 9:44 AM Powerflite - 2023-03-10 5:18 PM Dave, I have no idea why you have come to that erroneous conclusion. I replaced the lifters on my 325 poly already and didn't remove the heads. 5. Remove lifter inside the valley area. You can't take it through the head anyway. It comes out in the valley area. I guess I am basing my "erroneous" conclusion on the fact that, from all the photos that I have seen to date, including yours now, I cannot see where there is enough room to manipulate the lifter up and out of the lifter bore.. Nathan: IF I doubted you (I might have), I no longer do. I just watched a Dead Dodge Garage 241 Dodge double-rocker video in which he shows that he could remove/install a lifter with the head still on (as you had stated). This gives me reason to remove my intake manifold and lifter valley cover and get in there (after removing the valve cover and the No. 8 exhaust push rod). This video at 19:13. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBMNc0ztzLU (LifterInstallationThroughValley_241DodgeHemi.jpg) Attachments ---------------- LifterInstallationThroughValley_241DodgeHemi.jpg (99KB - 148 downloads) | ||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 488 | |||
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| 57Fireflite |
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Veteran Posts: 112 | |||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 488 | |||
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| 57Fireflite |
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Veteran Posts: 112 | Thank you dels56. Hope you didn't take my inquiry wrong... I'm learning. I'll look into the manual priming with a cordless drill - thanks for the tip. Appreciate all your contributions to my knowledge and the group! | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Well, after removing and replacing all 16 hydraulic lifters on my 56 Dodge double-rocker D500 315 engine (which was supposed to have solid lifters), I can say, at least for a 315 Dodge engine, there are no GOTCHAs regarding removing/replacing the lifters. That said, it wasn't much fun removing the carb, intake manifold and valley cover to get to the lifters. BUT I took that opportunity to clean and paint the manifold and valley cover. Always try to make lemonade when given lemons. As for the actual removal of the lifters, my procedure is to rotate the engine to bring a particular cylinder to TDC (all the way up) and then back off the interference fit adjusters and pull the push rods. Then I would blindly reach in to the lifter gallery and feel the lifter at the cam and start to move it up and away from the cam. As it emerged from the top of the lifter bore, I would grab the top of the lifter and pull it out. This went on, cylinder by cylinder, removing the lifters in pairs noting where they were located originally (intake or exhaust). I then put the lifters in a solvent bath for a few hours (or overnight) before removing the clip and disassembling the lifter, putting it back into the solvent bath for a bit before pulling the shell and piston (and spring) out and wiping them clean (including twisting a paper towel down into the inner well of the lifter shell. After checking the "weep" (charging) holes in the shell and piston with a 1/16" drill bit and a quick splash back in the solvent bath, I reassembled the lifter, adding the piston (and spring) to the shell (with a bit of clean oil on the outside of the piston), then the button and finally the clip (sometimes easy, sometimes a struggle, but I got it). Then the cleaned and reassembled lifter goes for a bath in clean engine oil (in small caper berry jar) for a few hours (or overnight). During this bath, I pump the piston (button) with a beheaded plastic toothbrush, watching for air bubbles. When there is no more air bubbles, I remove the lifter from the bath and reinstall it into the location where it came from (except for one or two unavoidable exceptions). Although I returned the lifters to their respective bores (one at a time), from both the side of the engine where they were located and from the opposite side, in the end, I think I liked returning them from the opposite side of the engine because I could see what I was doing (a bit). Returning them from the same side is a blind, by feel only, procedure. Both work but going from the opposite side seemed better. Then I add the push rods, move the rockers back to their proper position (I had slid them to one side during the lifter cleaning process) and start cranking on the adjuster screw. I keep checking the clearance by feel (grabbing the valve end of the rocker arm and shaking it). Finally when there was zero lash, I added a 1/4" turn of preload. Then I move to the next cylinder in the firing order. Dave H., who has a D500, has provided me with encouragement and suggestions as I worked my way through this process. His last suggestion was "Another method of finding the zero lash is to twirl the pushrod with your fingers. When there is clearance, the pushrod will spin freely. When zero lash is achieved, the pushrod will have drag when twirled." The attached photo shows the No. 8 lifters on the cam lobes when the piston is at TDC (and the valves are closed). The whole reason that I got into the lifter (and push rod) issue has been documented in a couple of related threads: Adjusting 56 D500 solid lifter valves and discovering a GOTCHA http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80645&... and Searching for alternatives to OE 56 Dodge D500 intake and exhaust push rods http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80678&... I might even have my engine back together today (or at least tomorrow) Edited by 56D500boy 2026-04-23 2:42 PM (DaveFs56D500EngineWithHydraulicLifters_No8_PistonUpLiftersDown.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DaveFs56D500EngineWithHydraulicLifters_No8_PistonUpLiftersDown.jpg (158KB - 98 downloads) | ||
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