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 6-Way Power Seat RebuildJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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chstrumpetdude |
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Regular Posts: 57  Location: Springfield, MO | Took some pics, hopefully it will help someone. These are from a 1959 power swivel seat. It would operate intermittently (notably being banged on to get it to move bit by bit). Every electrical contact was cleaned. Every contact was tested for resistance. Caveat: Even though it reads good continuity, it may not be enough for the amp load of the motor. I used liquid bearings lubricant for all bushings and white lithium grease for gears/cables. Summary of repairs/cleanings: -Motor relay internal contact filed & riveted connections soldered. Blade connecters filed. -Motor internal ground contact filed, motor end plates cleaned for continuity, and bushings oiled. wiped off motor commutator. I have no clue how the breaker point in the motor works. I can only assume the magnetic field of the motor opens up the contact once spinning fast enough. -Triple solenoids-didn't do anything besides testing individually -Gear clutch degreased, cleaned, lubed. I only greased the gears and oiled the actuators as well as bushings being careful where grease is applied. -Cables greased -The seat linear drive (aka seat post assembly) Opened driver side up for inspection and reassemble (I don't recommend doing this. Must ensure both seat supports are on the same tooth positions with a cable and a drill to get into position on each side. Also does not like to be taken apart. If you must, make sure it is a full resto IMO) -The six way switch tested continuity and filed all contacts for cleaning. Ended up soldering each rivet connection due to poor connectivity at the center posts. white grease keeps the springs/pivots in place for reassembly. Theory is that age/dirt/moisture at the center rivets loosens or gets corrosion between the rivet and the copper strip. -Test circuit breaker (59 is in the driver kick panel on Chryslers next to power window if optioned) Result is what I think is 98% functioning. Full movement from stop to stop does not happen most of the time. It intermittently will stop and have to wait before going again. It is likely a power supply or motor issue in the motor not getting enough current or the motor itself is fatigued. Tested with the car not running and fully charged battery on a 2amp charger. As a sidenote, the motors used in the mid 60s are EXTREMELY similar to this style of auto-lite and use the same 3 solenoid principle and are likely easier to find. I am not a fan of the switch they chose, it is prone to burning the points internally. Later they went with a sliding toggle that seems a bit more robust. Although cumberson, a better solution might be micro relays. Edited by chstrumpetdude 2023-03-02 4:36 PM (IMG_0312.jpg) (IMG_0313.jpg) (IMG_0314.jpg) (IMG_0315.jpg) (IMG_0316.jpg) (IMG_0324.jpg) (IMG_0325.jpg) (IMG_0326.jpg) Attachments ----------------  IMG_0312.jpg (175KB - 75 downloads) IMG_0313.jpg (114KB - 60 downloads) IMG_0314.jpg (97KB - 54 downloads) IMG_0315.jpg (119KB - 66 downloads) IMG_0316.jpg (142KB - 73 downloads) IMG_0324.jpg (108KB - 63 downloads) IMG_0325.jpg (117KB - 63 downloads) IMG_0326.jpg (166KB - 66 downloads) | ||
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| billy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395  Location: upstate new york | |||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049    Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | You could try with my method for speedometer cables. Just two pieces of scrap iron and two studs - the square profiles are just filed out. A sturdy bench wise will do just fine. (IMG_0097.jpg) (IMG_0098.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0097.jpg (103KB - 64 downloads) IMG_0098.jpg (123KB - 70 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| billy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 Location: upstate new york | |||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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