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Ignition Switch turned off but engine keeps running. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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plachy |
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Member Posts: 16 Location: North Carolina | 1956 Custom Royal 318ci, key starts engine but sometimes does not shut engine off. Barrel with key inserted often pulls out of ignition socket, yet engine remains running. Any repair thoughts appreciated. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3441 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Sounds like a bad ignition switchl | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10270 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Like many older automotive ignition switches, the switch is actually in two parts that are put together: 1. The ignition lock cylinder 2. The mechanical/electrical switch The lock cylinder "slips" into the mechanical/electrical switch and the complete assembly is mounted into a surround and held there by a machine screw. Once installed into the mechanical/electrical switch properly, the lock cylinder is used to turn the mechanical/electrical unit to the appropriate position. The two component ignition switch assembly: In your case, I believe (guess) that your lock cylinder is not properly installed into the mechanical/electrical switch and/or the spring loaded locating pin is broken off, e.g. somebody in the past jammed a screw driver in the lock cylinder and gave it a mighty twist that broke the locating pin off. Now there is nothing to keep the lock cylinder locked into the switch portion of the assembly. Lock cylinder showing the spring loaded locating pin: *IF* the lock cylinder was good, it can only be removed by having the ignition key a) in the lock cylinder and b) turning it to the RUN position (about "2 O'clock" in terms of rotary location - for a 56 Dodge ). Once I did that, depressing the spring loaded "lock" pin was easy and the lock cylinder basically fell out of the 4 lug switch. Inside the front of the ignition switch with the lock cylinder removed: | ||
plachy |
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Member Posts: 16 Location: North Carolina | Thank you so much for the helpful details, diagram and photos. I removed the ignition lock cylinder and mech/elec switch. I was most concerned with the locating pin, fortunately there is one. Though a little worn, there is enough pin length to hold lock cylinder in place. Cleaned parts and aligned everything for reassembly. Seems more secure than previously. Perhaps a new set screw will hold more firmly. Ignition switch works fine as it starts and shuts off engine. I'm hopeful this has resolved the issue. Return spring probably worn some and the key/cylinder portion feels a little slippery (i.e. could be tighter), but good for now | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10270 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Sounds like you are winning (or have won). I can not recall whether the screw that holds the switch assembly into the dash is 10-24 or 8-32 machine screw thread. Either way, it needs to be tight so the switch assembly does not turn when you turn the key to start. Edited by 56D500boy 2024-06-04 6:52 PM | ||
plachy |
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Member Posts: 16 Location: North Carolina | Yes, enjoyed a good cruise after completing this repair. Good thought, replacing worn screw will help. | ||
plachy |
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Member Posts: 16 Location: North Carolina | Yes, enjoyed a good cruise after completing this repair. Good thought, replacing worn screw will help. | ||
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