![]() | ||
| The Forward Look Network | ||
| ||
oil priming a new engine before 1st start up - Dodge 315V8Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
| Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition | Message format |
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 141 ![]() ![]() | My 1956 Dodge 315 V8 is almost ready to attempt to start. Its been suggested I should prime the oil galleries using a pressure sprayer. Has anyone done this, and where did you connect it to ? Or is it better to use a drill and drive the oil pump ? Thanks, Steve Edited by Steve1956 2026-01-10 4:58 AM | ||
| |||
| Mopar1 |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3185 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: N.W. Fla. | Use the drill motor! Get one person SLOWLY turn the crank with a ratchet. There are 2 points where the drill will "relax" a bit, those are the 2 points where oil flows to the heads. | ||
| |||
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 141 ![]() ![]() | Thanks, I've looked at some you-tube videos and I can see how that can be done. Cant seem to find a priming tool that suits the 315 Oil pump shaft though. Does anyone have any suggestions. The 315 oil pump has a "male end" to connect to, so need a slotted shaft to put in the drill ? Thanks, Steve | ||
| |||
| 57Fireflite |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 112 ![]() | In a similar situation; on a 330 -- I'm sure there are differences; however, in my situation, being unable to remove the drive distributor/oil pump gear at the back, found some advice whereby the coil is diabled, spark plugs out and the engine cranked in 10-15 second bursts until oil pressure registers. Reconnect coil, install plugs and bob's yer uncle -- or should be. Until further notice, that is the plan when the moment of truth comes and I start it back up. Following this thread for sure. | ||
| |||
| Mopar1 |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3185 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: N.W. Fla. | I just cut a groove in a piece of steel rod the proper size. As far as pulling the int. shaft make up something L shaped to get under the intermediate shaft gear & pull it up. As far as spinning the whole engine to do it, it's not a good idea on a fresh build. You want as little of the cam lube wiped off as possible. | ||
| |||
| Powerflite |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10542 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I've had very good luck with the reverse pliers (inserted into the drive groove) to get those gears out. It takes some finagling back and forth, but it has always come out so far over 15 or so different engines. The "L" shaped bar sounds like a great idea that I'll give a try if I ever have trouble. As Mopar1 stated, just purchase a long steel rod of the same (1/2"?) diameter and cut a groove into the end of it. Try it out on your distributor shaft first to see if it is good enough. Keep it in your tool box for future use. | ||
| |||
| 57chizler |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3866 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: NorCal | Steve1956 - 2026-01-10 1:54 AM Its been suggested I should prime the oil galleries using a pressure sprayer. Has anyone done this, and where did you connect it to ? On some engines with hard to access points for a primer rod, I use a pressurized tank of oil attached to the oil pressure gauge port in the back off the block to back-feed the system. On some blocks, the check valve will prevent back-feeding all the way to the pump so it's wise pack the pump shaft and rotors with petroleum jelly to pre-lube it. | ||
| |||
| wheelcover |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 163 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Wyoming | I bought an inexpensive oil pump priming tool from Hot Heads. | ||
| |||
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 141 ![]() ![]() | This initiative has not proceeded at the moment....my engine has locked up...can only turn it 180 degrees each way before if jams. So sending the motor back to the rebuilder this week. Bit of a mystery. Also getting a squeal from the timing cover seal...is this normal ? Thanks, Steve | ||
| |||
| Mopar1 |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3185 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: N.W. Fla. | Steve1956 - 2026-01-28 4:08 PM Sounds like seal installed w/o any lube. I had one not want to go all the way around, after some inspection a flexplate to crankflange bolt was sticking out a bit to far, had been using 2 from turning the crank & it hit the mount....This initiative has not proceeded at the moment....my engine has locked up...can only turn it 180 degrees each way before if jams. Also getting a squeal from the timing cover seal...is this normal ? Thanks, Steve | ||
| |||
| 57Fireflite |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 112 ![]() | Thanks Mopar1 and Powerflite for the encouragement. Ended up using a 90 degree pick to get in and lift the distributor drive gear out - easier than expected. Bought a piece of 1/2" aluminum rod, notched it, shaved it down with sandpaper while in the drill, coated with oil and dropped it down in the hold. Got almost instant oil pressure; ran it for a few seconds to be sure, twice. Subsequent start-up aside from the dialing in/adjustments was successful. | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . That is great news James. Can you post a photo of your "tool" (the aluminum one) to help future us when we are in the same situation? | ||
| |||
| 57Fireflite |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 112 ![]() | Absolutely. It's nice to be of some help, as I consider myself new to the FL group. Aluminum was easy to work with - Dremel or multi-tool made quick work of it. Suggest spinning in drill before dropping it down to ensure there's no major wobble. Note faded red Sharpie line to indicate direction of oil pump tang to facilitate timing set up. Jimbo (IMG_0904.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0904.JPG (228KB - 158 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Thanks for posting that image James. I am sure that others will find it useful when they need to make a tool to pre-oil their engine(s). | ||
| |||
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 141 ![]() ![]() | Hi All, I've tried priming using a pump, and get only get a slight movement at the gauge for pressure. So now, following the example of Fireflite and other folks suggestions I made my own shaft which works well. HOWEVER, I get oil pressure as per the gauge now, see photo, but no oil at the rockers. I have tried multiple times for quite a period, drill speed label says 2000RPM. I also got my son turning the engine slowly as I ran the drill, with no improvement....ie no oil at the rockers. I cracked the oil lines at the remote oil filter ( RHD car) and plenty of oil coming through ( just to check the obvious). I'm not sure what to do now. Reluctant to try and start the motor without at least a dribble of oil at the rockers, although some people have said I should and it will fix itself. Not so sure ? Does anyone have any suggestions ? Thanks, Steve Just adding a foot note: I've seen in a google search that I need to seal the Distributor hole when using the priming shaft and drill as this affects the ability of the oil to get up to the rockers...Is this the problem ? Edited by Steve1956 2026-05-06 2:42 PM (oilp2.jpg) (oilp1.jpg) (oilp.jpg) Attachments ---------------- oilp2.jpg (79KB - 66 downloads) oilp1.jpg (106KB - 70 downloads) oilp.jpg (70KB - 65 downloads) | ||
| |||
| Shep |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3491 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Looks like a B block, if so and the rocker shafts and rockers were disassembled, the shafts could be facing the wrong way, blocking the oil holes, , if my memory serves me correctly. Check the shop manual for the proper orientation of the rocker assembly components. Edited by Shep 2026-05-06 12:09 PM | ||
| |||
| 57chizler |
| ||
Expert Posts: 3866 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: NorCal | It's an A block and the distributor hole has nothing to do with top oiling. Try loosening the rocker shaft stand bolts to see if oil seeps out from under the stands. Yes, the crank must be turned slowly while priming the pump. | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | 57chizler - 2026-05-06 10:29 AM It's an A block and the distributor hole has nothing to do with top oiling. Try loosening the rocker shaft stand bolts to see if oil seeps out from under the stands. Yes, the crank must be turned slowly while priming the pump. To John's point, the upper end of the engine is NOT lubricated continuously, but periodically as the cam shaft is rotated. These two pages from the 56 Dodge FSM and the diagram below regarding oiling passages should help you figure it out. Be sure to read the text on Page 211. Good luck. (56DodgeFSMpg211_1024.jpg) (56DodgeFSMpg210_1024.jpg) (Hemi-BigBlock.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56DodgeFSMpg211_1024.jpg (234KB - 51 downloads) 56DodgeFSMpg210_1024.jpg (222KB - 69 downloads) Hemi-BigBlock.jpg (207KB - 54 downloads) | ||
| |||
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 141 ![]() ![]() | Thanks Dave. Good information. Waiting on the engine rebuilder / assembler to look at my problem. In the meantime I've done some googling. I found this mark in my photo (arrow) visible on the rocker shafts. On the LHS side ( US drivers side), this arrow is at the rear of the rocker shaft and pointing to the rear of the car. On the US passenger side, this mark is visible on the front of the rocker shaft, pointing to the front of the car. I have attached a snapshot of my google AI question, and the answer I got. To me it seems my engine has the rockers shafts either mismatched to the correct side, or put on wrong facing direction. Does anybody recognize these marks, or can offer any advice / experience please ? Thanks, Steve EDIT Update : I just retyped my Google AI query ( a couple of hours later) in a slightly different set of words, and got the exact opposite answer as to which direction the arrows should face on each bank. So I will be waiting until someone knows for sure and / or the engine rebuilder looks at it. I don't trust google AI !! Edited by Steve1956 2026-05-07 7:16 AM (rocker shaft mark2.jpg) (Rocker shaft mark.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rocker shaft mark2.jpg (92KB - 51 downloads) Rocker shaft mark.jpg (118KB - 53 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11182 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Steve: Just so you know, for a non-air conditioning car, there are no left and right heads, there are just heads. With the exception of the location of the coolant passage block off plate, the left head is identical to the right head, i.e. same part number. So things that point one way (e.g. forward) on one head, will point the other way (e.g. rearward) the other head. | ||
| |||
| Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] |
| Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
| (Delete all cookies set by this site) | |

oil priming a new engine before 1st start up - Dodge 315V8