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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | I am considering doing the HEI Ignition conversion .
I have done this conversion on previous Slant 6 powered cars I have owned (or they owned me)
I have got the Coil , Module , Heat Sink and relay from a previous conversion .
A friend has a Electronic Distributor I can use .
Questions are ,
Will this work with a Generator ?
What Voltage Regulator will I need ?
I used one of these previously on the Slant 6 conversion as was recommended .
https://checkout.rarespares.net.au/products/voltage-regulator-eh-hq-...
These only have pins for 2 wires .
I notice the Regulator in my 58 Dodge has 3 wires .
Your help would be appreciated .
Cheers ,
Bucket .
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6703
   
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | I found this: Question from John:
I swapped out the dual point distributor on my '59 with a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit and no problems even with the original generator and generator regulator setup. The instructions mention that the ignition voltage should not be less than 12.5V and I measured around 12.8V at idle with the head lights and blower motor on. Timing mark is rock steady at idle now. I have some pinging during acceleration so I have to retard the timing (I think I set it to 10 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected). Any suggestion on what the retarded setting should be? The vacuum advance in the Mopar Performance distributor is adjustable and I've set in for minimum.
Reply from Norm:
The instructions that come with the ignition set suggest that you set the initial timing at 5 degrees btdc and take it on the road to see if it pings. Then, gradually up it until it talks to you . https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Electrical/ignition.htm |
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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | Thanks Marc .
The Chrysler/Mopar electronic ignition still uses a Control unit and ballast resistor most times .
The HEI is higher voltage hence why I asked about the generator and regulator .
The other cars I have done this conversion on have had Alternators .
There is a link I followed previously on the Slant Six forum which suggests using a Solid State / Electronic regulator .
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5174
| I went with a pertronix distrobutor, that way the hei won't burn out the distributor and its a single package. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10542
Location: So. Cal | I run an HEI conversion on all of my older vehicles and never had a problem with "burning out a distributor" with 4 of my vehicles running over 40K miles each. Of course it requires using an electronic distributor with a magnetic pickup from '71-'78 or so.
I also have run them with many stock generators & regulators without issues. Being a strictly DC component, it runs quite will with a generator as long as it has the voltage it requires. I have personally experienced that the module will no longer function properly once the voltage dips below 7.5 volts because it's at that point that it died on my '70 Satellite that had gradually increasing resistance in it's bulk-head connector.
I sell this conversion kit that will mount an HEI module to the bottom of a stock Chrysler distributor. http://www.designed2drive.com |
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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | Powerflite - 2026-06-29 11:34 PM
I run an HEI conversion on all of my older vehicles and never had a problem with "burning out a distributor" with 4 of my vehicles running over 40K miles each. Of course it requires using an electronic distributor with a magnetic pickup from '71-'78 or so.
I also have run them with many stock generators & regulators without issues. Being a strictly DC component, it runs quite will with a generator as long as it has the voltage it requires. I have personally experienced that the module will no longer function properly once the voltage dips below 7.5 volts because it's at that point that it died on my '70 Satellite that had gradually increasing resistance in it's bulk-head connector.
I sell this conversion kit that will mount an HEI module to the bottom of a stock Chrysler distributor. http://www.designed2drive.com
Nathan
I have contacted you about shipping to Australia .
You where away until the 29th , I'm guessing you are back now .
I will let you know when I am ready to go .
This is the coil I have and have used before with no problems .
https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/bosch-hec-ignition...
Cheers,
Greg |
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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | On the 3 previous HEI Conversions I have done on Slant 6 Valiants I have used NGK Resistor Spark Plugs and High Energy Plug Leads .
This is recommended on the Slant 6 Forum .
It has worked great for me in the past .
Questions to those that have done the HEI Conversion on a Big Block .
Do you use Resistor Spark Plugs and what heat range .
Do you use high energy leads .
The spark plugs currently in my 350 are NGK BP5S which are non resistor , 5 heat range .
The plug leads are 7MM triple silicone , there is no brand on them .
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10542
Location: So. Cal | You can use either type of spark plug, but it's possible to get better performance with a non-resistor. That said, you typically will need to open the plug gap wider on a non-resistor plug to prevent the module from sourcing too much current. But a wider plug gap "can" give you better performance too. The system needs a certain amount of resistance. You can give it that resistance in the wires, plugs or in the gap. It's the combination that matters. The wires you are describing are somewhat standard high resistance wires. Copper core wires are a different beast and require a lot of changes to use. I don't recommend them.
The downside to not using a resistor plug, or using low resistance wires, is that your AM radio will pick up the ignition cackles unless you filter it all out with a proper capacitor. That electrical noise can also affect sensitive EFI computer systems as well, so it depends on if the input voltage to them is well filtered or not. Copper core wires can cause a huge amount of noise that may not be able to be filtered out completely.
Heat range is determined more by your compression ratio and/or boost. If you have issues with pre-igntion on a high compression engine, you can jump to a colder plug, and that may help with that situation. If you run too cold of a plug, you risk too much carbon build-up on it. If your engine is near stock compression, then stick with the stock heat range.
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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | Thanks Nathan .
After I am finished the conversion I will post up some photos and a description of what I did . |
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Expert
Posts: 3491
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Remember, non rfi solid core wires will eventually damage an hei based module. |
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Regular
Posts: 95
Location: Gympie area , QLD , Australia . | Well the conversion is done and running great .
Parts I used are ,
Narva 68024BL Relay Normally Open , this is a 5 Pin Relay .
You only need 4 pins but this gives the option of another switched power source .
You don't need to run a relay but I have always done it this way .
Narva 54412BL In-Line Mini Blade Fuse .
Bosch HEC715 Coil .
Napa Echlin MO-3000 Long Tip Rotor .
Chrysler Electronic Distributor .
Distributor Cap with Brass or Copper Terminals .
Bosch BIM706 4 Pin Module .
Module Mount for Distributor from http://www.designed2drive.com/ Powerflite/Nathan .
Assorted wire and terminals and shrink tube .
Hooking it up starting with relay .
Pin 30 is power input with 15A Inline Fuse , I ran this from the Starter Solenoid Battery Side .
Pin 85 is ground , I ran this to the Voltage Regulator base .
I had previously ran a ground wire from there over to the Battery - post .
Pin 86 is Trigger feed , I used the wire from the Ignition Switched side of the Ballast Resistor .
Pin 87 is Power out to to the module B terminal and Coil Positive Terminal .
I had previously ran a new wire from the Ballast Resistor to the Coil + Terminal so I used this .
Hooking up the Module ,
Pin B goes to Coil + then connect your power wire from Relay to the Coil + Terminal as well .
Pin C goes to Coil - .
The Orange or Grey wire from your Electronic Distributor goes to Pin W .
The Black wire from your Electronic Distributor goes to Pin G .
I was cautious and also ran a ground wire from one of the Module Mounting screws back over the the Regulator Base .
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 20260801_130657.jpg (137KB - 22 downloads)
20260801_130629.jpg (184KB - 20 downloads)
20260801_074620.jpg (169KB - 18 downloads)
20260801_074545.jpg (141KB - 24 downloads)
20260806_140546.jpg (149KB - 20 downloads)
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HEI Ignition
