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| hondaman1974 |
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Veteran Posts: 268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Northern Illinois | hello all! my radiator in my 55 dodge is starting to leak (original honeycomb fins). i was quoted over 1000 dollars for a recore. the car is just a driver and not really worth that cost just for a radiator. i really dont want aluminum, they look way out of place and is of cheaper quality than brass. my question is can you use a newer style mopar radiator 60's-70's with close dimensions and hose locations? im sure i will have to modify mounting holes and maybe shroud bracket location. any suggestions? Tony Edited by hondaman1974 2026-08-07 9:10 PM | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11221 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Tony: I think that a 1955 Dodge V8 used a 1599 263 radiator. Searching on "1599263 Dodge V8 radiator" it shows up a few: https://www.ebay.com/itm/401046109897 US Radiator has 55-56 Dodge Truck radiators that look mostly correct (but might be a bit tall (??) (NOT cheap) https://usradiator.com/product/dodge-truck-1955-56-v8-radiator?srslt... The 56 Dodge/Plymouth V8 (non-honey comb/fin and tube) radiator was PN 1656 450. When searching "1656450 1956 Dodge Plymouth V8 radiator for sale" the hits are mostly for flat head engines. That said, if you know someone who can weld aluminum and you can source etch primer and semi-gloss Tremclad black, you might to consider modifying one of these 3 cores that are set up for the flat head six (the base price, before the needed welding, is very good) https://www.ebay.com/b/Engine-Radiators-for-1956-Plymouth-Belvedere/... Good Luck Edited by 56D500boy 2026-08-08 3:51 PM | ||
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| hondaman1974 |
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Veteran Posts: 268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Northern Illinois | thanks, Dave, I'm not sure what i want to do. it seems to leak when cold, then stop when it warms up. a couple more months of car shows, then ill pull it. who knows i may bit the bullet. ouch!!!!! | ||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 488 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I had my rad re-cored at a local rad shop. You can’t tell it from the original that was in the car. That way there are no mods needed to put it back in place. The rad shops typically repaint after they repair and pressure test. Or it may just need a bit of repair and a flush and clean. By the way rads are soldered. Del | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 11221 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Tony: I kept looking and bumped into this one at Summit. Looks to have some potential for you. (Inlet and outlet are in about the right locations. Ignore the Auto Trans cooling ports) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382026?seid=srese1&gad_source... ![]() | ||
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| JedRhule |
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Veteran Posts: 143 ![]() ![]() Location: Palm Beach County Florida | I can remember when there was a radiator shop in every town. They are all gone. I needed my upper rad tank soldered and I had to drive 25 minutes to a man in a repurposed gas station who could do it. He did an excellent job for $100 | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10579 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I used a KKS aluminum radiator for a '65 B-body. They are about the right shape and have rounded tops with indents so they look similar to the originals. Others have used a later A-body KKS aluminum radiator too, and that should work, and looks even better. However, with any non-stock radiator, you will have to modify the mounting brackets as the '55-'56 Dodge/Plymouth radiators must fit on a slanted mount. https://www.ebay.com/itm/316404477495 | ||
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1955 dodge radiator alternative