Look for a burr on the adjustment ring or flange. You may have to take the flange loose and pull the axle again to do so, but it should not run out of adjustment since you can screw the adjustment ring completely through the flange if the threads are in good shape.
I just finished rebuilding my Budd calipers and while the car was in the
garage, I figured I would do the rear brakes as well. The drivers side went
great, but when I went to do the rear passenger side, everything in sight
was oily. The axle seal seems to have expired.
I pulled the axle, yanked the inner axle seal out and replaced it with a new
one. Put the axle shaft back as per the FSM. Went to adjust the shaft
endplay, and that is where my problem is. I am at the end of the adjuster,
but cannot get the end play to the .013 to .023 spec that the factory
recommends. I have more like .070. I followed the FSM procedure as well.
Unfortunately, I did not think to measure the end play before I removed the
axle, for a comparison.
Anyone else BTDT? Any thoughts welcome.
Thank you
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of
RandalPark@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 4:47 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 electrical problems horns and lights
The turn signal switch isn't that difficult to change. The speedometer has
to come out, but it is much easier to remove than the gauge cluster. The
hard part would be to find a good switch. If you have a parts car, that
would be worth a try to see if it corrected your problem. I didn't notice in
your post whether you changed your brake light switch. If you haven't, you
should. It is hydraulic and does give trouble. It is also simple to change
and also very available. You probably checked your fuses. If you haven't,
you should. Often, if you blow a fuse while tinkering, it makes more than
one thing quit at the same time. It has been too long since I worked very
much on my '60 to be very specific about any of this, but I hope it is
helpful.
I have had the horn blowing when turning the wheel syndrome. It has happened
twice. Both times were when I wasn't wanting to call attention to myself.
Imagine driving a '60 Imperial and not wanting to call attention to oneself!
Having the horn blow repeatedly while I was turning the wheel got everyone's
attention and it was very embarassing. The rest of the time the horn has
worked fine.
Paul
In an email dated Fri, 18 3 2005 1:36:23 pm GMT, richard burgess
<lecrown60@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
>Hi Group,
>
>Hope some of you have some advice on my electrical woes. My 1960 LeBaron
is giving me fits.
>
>My brake lights were working intermitantly and have now stopped working
entirely. I have headlights, front park lights, tail lights, and back up
lights. No turn signal and no brake lights. My rear harness is fine,
cleaned all bulb connections and checked wiring. The power is not coming
through at the connector at the left front kick panel. This connector to
the rear harness has three wires. B-2/D-7/D-8 in the wiring diagram. The
white wire (B-2) is the back up lamps, I get power when the car is in
reverse on the selector. I am not getting power to the green and brown
wires. These wires (according to the wiring diagrams) go to the turn signal
switch which is totally inaccessible without pulling dash guages. I do have
new connectors at the brake switch, and new switch, at the new master brake
cylinder. I am getting power at that point. I am now lost as to what to
try next.
>
>My horns stopped working a while back and I determined the ground wire was
broken at the steering column. It also had a flat spot on the brass roller.
I replaced the whole switch with one from a parts car that had good wires
and roller. I was getting sporadic horn play and now when I turn the wheel
right, the horn honks, turn the wheel left, the horn honks. Cute huh?
>From under the dash I can see the horn ground engaging when the wheel gets
to a certain left and right location. I guess instead of having turn signal
lights I have horn indicators. I unplugged the wire. I innitialy thought
the problem was in the steering wheel since it would only honk/respond when
you pressed the left side of the ring. Cleaned all the metal surfaces in
the wheel and again swapped out the parts for nicer ones and was still only
getting response on the left side. My big question is why does the ground
involve this roller mechanism? What on earth does the position of the wheel
have to do with
> the horn honking???????? What now?
>
>The brake lights are my real problem as this car is hard enough to drive
with both hands. Having one out window doing hand signals is dangerous for
me and I think everyone else on the road has forgotten what they mean
anyway.
>
>Richard Burgess
>'60 LeBaron Sedan
>'60 Crown Sedan, (comes back from the bodyshop next weekend!)
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
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