Re: IML: 63 air conditioning

["John and D'Ann" <jdfahnestock@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Chris,
    Thanks for the reply.  The compressor was shipped w/o oil and can be
used with either R12 or 134.

    The muffler on the 63 is connected directly to the compressor so I will
go ahead and flush it.  I definitely want to make sure that the evaporator
and condensor are well flushed so I don't compromise the new components, as
you have stated.

    I was planning on going with the 406 because I have three R12 systems in
the driveway right now and it is more of a direct replacement.

John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Hawkins" <imperial1966@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 63 air conditioning


> You will save a lot of aggravation and annoyance if
> you have the system flushed by an A/C shop with all
> the right equipment.  Any scale or other residual
> debris will play havoc with all your new parts.
>
> If you do decide to do it yourself, definitely
> disconnect the expansion valve.  Its screen will trap
> everything you are trying to flush.  (Clean screen
> thoroughly before re-installing.) If the 1963 muffler
> is mounted inline by the compressor, you can
> disconnect it and flush it out thoroughly.  If it is
> the big coffee can-style muffler mounted on the wheel
> well like 64-66, then I would by-pass it.
>
> By the way, what kind of oil is in your compressor?
> Most rebuilt units now come with R-134 compatible
> lubricant.  That may influence your decision as to
> which kind of refrigerant you use.
>
> I had my 66 converted to R-134 and it works
> beautifully.  Only changes (besides a flush and use of
> an R-134 lube) is the addition of a high-pressure
> relief switch on the high side, and an adjustable
> thermostat switch that reads evaporator temps.  Both
> cycle the clutch as needed.  The high side switch for
> when pressures build up too high, thermostat switch
> when evaporator temps go down below 35 degrees - which
> it will do easily.  This thermostat switch is in place
> because the EPR valve is removed from the back of the
> compressor.  Removing this valve allows the R-134 to
> produce an ice cold system with easy, inexpensive
> servicing.
>
> Good luck with your A/C repair.  Summer is coming!
>
> Chris H.
>
> 66 LeBaron
>
>
>
>
> Do not be
>
> --- John and D'Ann <jdfahnestock@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >     My air conditioning compressor locked up two
> > years ago.  I have finally been able to get a
> > re-built compressor, clutch, hoses, and
> > receiver/dryer.  I need some advice on flushing out
> > the remaining parts of the system.  The instructions
> > on the new compressor say that the expansion valve
> > and the mufflers should NOT be flushed with solvent,
> > does this sound correct?  I can understand why not
> > the valve, but I would think the mufflers should be.
> >  I see that there are some special flushing tools,
> > but they are fairly expensive for what will probably
> > be a one time use for me.  Is it good enough to put
> > solvent in and blow it out with air?  Can I do this
> > with the evaporator and condenser in the car or do
> > they really need to come out to do it right?
> >
> >     I also am thinking of using AUTOFROST (R-406)
> > instead of 134.  Has anyone had experience using 406
> > in their Imperials?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >     John
>
>
>
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