Bobski says that those son of a bitches valve seals were crap that year. It is probably full of carbon. It needs a decarb and a good valve job and a new timing chain and a good tune-up.
ps make sure the distributor weights are free and vacuum chamber is good and everything else that follows in making it a good tune up
--- Dr David George Briant <drdgb@xxxxxxx> wrote:
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Duricy" <desotobravo@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 1:44 PM
Subject: IML: 1973 Imperial Valve Job Questions
> My 1973 Imperial with 151,000 miles has been running > poorly. Symptoms have included lack of power, rough > idle, excessively noisy and hot exhaust, and low > engine vacuum (10 to 12 inches of vacuum on the worst > of days). > > Compression tests show 120psi for cylinder 1, 90psi > for cylinder 3, and inconsistent readings for cylinder > 5 - which jumps anywhere from 60psi to 80psi. With > these readings, I didn't bother to test the remaining > cylinders given how difficult it is to access the > plugs on this car. > > I believe that the symptoms and the tests show that > the Imperial has either sticky or burned valves. I am > unsure what to do next. > > Would it be more economical to have a machine shop > rebuild the cylinder head, buy a replacement head, or > attempt the work myself? I have done a valve job on my > 1950 DeSoto, but I suspect the Imperial 440 demands > more skill and pricier parts than the DeSoto Six. > > I'm wondering, too, if I should just sell the car. > That, however, is a very sad thought. > > Your advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Dave Duricy > 1973 Imperial LeBaron (The Ailing Monarch) > 1968 Imperial Crown convertible (The Usurper) > 1950 DeSoto Custom (The Witness) > > > > > ____________________________________________________
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