From: Christopher H <imperial67@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: "IML (main)" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: Paint/Wax 57 Imperial
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 23:00:01 -0700
Welcome to the group, Patrick & David's Dad (do you have a name too?)!
Sounds like you have an incredible car. :)
Odds are that what you are seeing on your cloth is indeed paint, especially
if it's the same color as the car (or close).
A few things to consider:
1. Paint naturally oxidizes with exposure to the elements, so it's normal
to
remove the dead paint (though if all the paint has died, you'll have
removed
all the paint!). So this isn't a huge concern if the car's not been waxed
in
a while, but you have to test out a small area and see what the result is.
2. There are many types of waxes. "Cleaner waxes" and "polishes" all have
agents, both mechanical (abrasive) and chemical, that remove oxidized
paint,
presumably to leave a fresh, shiny top layer after they're done. Cleaner
waxes are not always the best at protecting this newly revealed top layer,
however. A follow-up topcoat of a non-cleaning wax is a good idea.
3. Paint ages. Even if the car was repainted once, if it's no longer
glossy,
then the paint has oxidized and the question becomes how well will it come
up. Sometimes a single application of a cleaner wax followed by regular
applications (depending on where you live, how the car is used and stored,
etc.) of a non-cleaner wax will keep the paint going for years to come.
There is no reason a paint job cannot last 20-30 years with proper car,
whether it is the factory original or a well-done repaint.
4. Not all waxes are the same. I'm a fan of Meguiar's products, and find
that their stages of wax provide the best choices based on your needs. You
can research them at meguairs.com. For very dark cars and modern paint in
good condition, however, I'm partial to Zymol, however. (I have several
black cars and none looks as uniformly wonderful as after the first washing
a week after it's been waxed with Zymol... Something about having that week
to set and then being washed and dried that just makes for a gorgeous
finish.)
5. Pay attention to what you apply and remove the wax with. Soft 100%
cloths
are a must, as is keeping the car cool (in the shade or garage). I buy
diapers from a local diaper service in bulk every two years. Nothing beats
'em, IMHO. But soft, good-quality terrycloth towels are also good. I also
don't recommend that anyone learn to use a buffing machine on a pristine
classic or a new car... It's too easy to buff the creases and edges down to
primer without much effort. Practice and a gentle touch must be used, and
therefore learned!
Hope this helps... Enjoy that '57!
--
Chris in LA
67 Crown
78 NYB Salon
On 7/11/05 7:04 PM, tcrowley2@xxxxxxxxxxxx at tcrowley2@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Ok folks, here goes. I've been reading all your dialogue for a month
now
> and truly enjoy it. I just purchased a 57 Crown Imperial. My boys
(Patrick
> 15, David 14) and I (especially) love it! It has 27,500 original miles,
and
> is in fine condition. The 392 Hemy makes me smile as I can barely hear
it
> running after her two-day tune-up. I'm a novice, but learning every
single
> day. Here goes my very first (of many questions): When I rub the paint
(or
> wax) the rag is actually coming up with blue smudges on it. It's as if
I'm
> rubbing off the paint!! What's that all about. I haven't waxed it yet
or
> anything yet because I wanted to ask this question. Is it paint? Is it
> unbuffed wax? I'm not freaked about it, but is does seem alittle wierd.
(The
> car is dark blue and has been painted MAYBE once since its original
paint job
> in 1957. Please advise. Thanks.
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