Re: IML: Changing Door-Hinges
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Re: IML: Changing Door-Hinges



I used a 2X4 and a hydraulic floor jack. Probably also a good idea to use a brace to stabilize the door, but I didn't. I did this on 4 door cars, which have smaller doors that you have, Dan.
 
Paul W. 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 30 May 2006 0:01:23 -0700
Subject: Re: IML: Changing Door-Hinges

Hi All...Has anyone on the IML used a door-support tool of some kind to help 
when changing one or both of the door-hinges on their Imperial?? I will be 
changing the drivers side hinge soon and wondered if its worth it (or necessary) 
to buy on of those 'door support dollys' that i ahve seen advertised by some of 
the tool companies on-line. The cheapest one I saw was about $100.00 and you had 
to use a floor-jack under it to support the weight f the door. Other types were 
as high as $450.00....which is a little much for me unless I was going to be 
doing LOTS of doors!!
Thanks all!!
Dan melnik
---- David Whitney <hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: 

=============
Laurie, there are two excellent books in addition to the indispensable FSM.
   
  How to Rebuild Big-Block Mopar Engines by Don Taylor -- Long on diagnostics so 
you waste less time and has lots of good photos.
   
  Big Block 'B-RB' Engines -- Mopar Performance p/n P4876825 -- Long on theory 
and explanations with part numbers for ordering.
   
  The most important thing to have if you are a newbie is a friend who is not a 
newbie.  Try getting in touch with your local Mopar club.  At the very least 
someone there can point you in the right direction.  There are lots of old farts 
and some young ones who enjoy doing this kind of work to help keep head-turning 
cars on the road.  Also find out from the club who in your area is a reliable 
and knowledgeable Mopar repair/machine shop.  Some stuff you can't do yourself, 
so you need someone to take it to.

   
  I don't know how long your engine has sat or how far gone it is.  Please do 
not start taking parts off until you get the Don Taylor book so you can get an 
idea of how much needs to be rebuilt based on the diagnostics in the book.
   
  In addition to the information in the above books, you will likely need to 
replace and/or clean all your wiring harnesses/connectors and a good chunk of 
wiring.  Anything that is rubber should be replaced, not just hoses and belts 
but suspension bushings and hood/trunk/door seals, etc.  The exception to the 
rubber rule is for weatherstripping only -- if you can bring it back with 
Leatherique or similar rehydration so it is springy and makes a good seal.  If 
the weatherstripping has already started to crumble, it's too late.
   
  Unless you need date-matching parts and frivolous expense of that nature, 
count on replacing all bolt-on engine accessories -- alternator, carburetor, 
starter, power steering pump, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump.  Radiator must be 
cleaned and pressure tested if not replaced, and the gas tank must be removed 
and cleaned.  You will need penetrating oil and paint.  Lots of paint.  And 
tools you didn't even know existed.
   
  At some point you will shake the grit out of your hair, look at the grime 
under your nails and your depleted bank balance and wonder if it's all worth it.  
There is a light at the end of the tunnel.  The more you dawdle the more time 
you'll spend in the tunnel.
   
  Not trying to put you off your project.  The car belongs on the road.  But 
first it needs to be roadworthy or you will stop loving it as much as you love 
it now.
   


Happy motoring,

David

'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 Crown Coupe project
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
        
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