RE: IML: voltage limiter question

[Tim Durrer <tdkd99@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, for your reply Dick.
 So why am I getting the pulsating voltage on that
blue wire with the instrument cluster and voltage
limiter out of the car sitting on the floor of the
garage?

I love electrical problems!

Tim Durrer


--- Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> The pulsating voltage is correct, that is the way
> the voltage "limiter"
> works. Its job is to produce approximately 5 volts
> (average) to operate the
> gauges, so it puts out 12 volts for about 42% of the
> time, and 0 volts for
> 58% of the time, that is what makes your meter or
> test light show a variable
> voltage. Since the gauge display units are heat
> operated, they don't react
> quickly enough to be bothered by the pulsating
> voltage.  
> 
> The situation you describe is what it should be,
> except that when you put
> the dash back in, something connected to the
> pulsating voltage wire is
> coming in contact with bare metal, somehow.
> 
> Dick Benjamin
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Tim Durrer
> Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 5:08 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: voltage limiter question
> 
> Hello all, I am also having gauge problems on my 73.
> I
> have read all the information on the website,
> studied
> the FSM and have concluded I also have a faulty
> voltage limiter. My problem started when the fuel
> gauge moved past full and the fuse protecting the
> gauge circuit blew. Upon replacing the fuse, it blew
> again in a matter of seconds followed by a small
> puff
> of smoke out of the top of the dash. I have pulled
> the
> instrument panel completely out of the car and I am
> awaiting the delivery of the part.
> 
> My question: The blue wire that was attached to the
> back of the fuel gauge according to the FSM wiring
> diagram goes back to the fuel tank sending unit
> which
> is grounded. Why does my test light come on and the
> light pulsate on this wire when I turn on the
> ignition
> switch? In reading the wiring diagram, current
> should
> flow from the limiter, through the gauge to this
> blue
> wire, to the sending unit and then to ground. If I
> am
> reading this right why am I getting voltage on this
> wire if the dash is completely out of the car? Could
> I
> have a short somewhere else? Incidentally, the fuse
> now holds with instrument panel out of the car.
> 
> Help!
> 
> Tim Durer
> 73 Lebaron
> 
> --- stephen dilley <stephendilley@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > hi, i am back from a hot rod weekend here in in
> the
> > uk, whilst having 
> > problems with failed gauges and high reading oil
> > pressure- now smoke came a 
> > wafting out of the indicator stalk hole on my 60
> > crown. ??? still works 
> > mind. the car is a star and wish to keep it so ...
> > am using it for a wedding on saturday just hope
> she
> > dont go up in flames !!! 
> > how do you get to the cluster??? for limiter?
> should
> > i just fit some remote 
> > modern gauges and leave well alone ? back to the
> > indicator smoke , wots all 
> > that about? also i have a power drain somewhere
> > which leaves a low glow on 
> > the handbrake on light. unable to locate source,
> so
> > av bin removing battery 
> > lead to prevent flat.
> > 
> > 
> > best wishes, steve.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > >From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
> > >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: Re: IML: Stupid mistake NOW voltage
> > limiter question
> > >Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 12:23:34 -0400
> > >
> > >My experience on the voltage limiter has been
> > solely on the 1960 through 
> > >1963 models. I am not aware of the need for it in
> > others being as great as 
> > >in this group of Imperials. On 1960 through 1963,
> > it is SUPER easy, and 
> > >must be done to have working gauges.
> > >
> > >The limiter is attached to the back of the
> cluster.
> > The attachment point 
> > >acts as a ground. The power input is connected to
> > it, instead of the gauge 
> > >with the limiter in it, the output is routed to
> the
> > first gauge with a 
> > >jumper from the new limiter, and then to the
> > remaining gauges with the 
> > >existing wiring.
> > >
> > >I suspect that it is similar to install in other
> > years, but the other years 
> > >may have an external limiter to start with that
> is
> > replaceable. I just 
> > >don't know. I haven't had reason to do it.
> Outside
> > of 1960 through 1963, 
> > >the gauges in my Imperials have worked fine and
> not
> > changed their function 
> > >in any way over time or with mileage. 1960
> through
> > 1963 have ALL required 
> > >replacement of the limiter. This is a chronic
> > problem for those cars. The 
> > >problem has ceased to exist in the 1960-63 models
> > that I have installed the 
> > >external limiter.
> > >
> > >There is extensive discussion about this in the
> OIC
> > site.
> > >
> > >Paul W.
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Sent: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 6:49 AM
> > >Subject: IML: Stupid mistake NOW voltage limiter
> > question
> > >
> > >
> > >Paul,
> > >
> > >You mentioned the external voltage limiter in
> your
> > reply.  I have made 
> > >simple electronic limiters for some of my 67
> > A-bodies, but haven't 
> > >replaced/rerouted to bypass a faulty internal
> > limiter.  Is this discussed 
> > >somewhere in our website, or is it simple enough
> to
> > describe again in 
> > >email?  I'll need to do this to at least three
> cars
> > if I ever get that far.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Michael
> > >65 Crown (two, neither salvageable)
> > >67 Crown Coupe project
> > >68 Crown
> >
>
>________________________________________________________________________
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> > 
> > 
> > 
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