RE: IML: '55 taillights

[aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx>]

    The reason that I said that in the first place, is that here
in HOT Arizona plastic does not stand up too well, especially
nylon.  I remember having to replace the turn signal in my
Father's 1962 Falcon in 1973 because the turn signal switch had
fallen apart in the column from the heat. (Yes, it was made of
unbreakable nylon.)  It did not have brake lights except by
contorting the turn signal lever into VERY unusual positions.  It
was not pretty when I opened it up.  THere were small pieces
everywhere.  The same thing happens to the nylon bearings in the
power window gears.

Æyn

--- Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> You are exactly correct; in fact ALL cars which share the same
> filament for
> the turn signals and brake lights are required to wire the
> brake light
> circuit through the turn signal switch.  This includes just
> about everything
> made in the US of A from the early 50s through the present, for
> most cars.
> 
> Dick Benjamin
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of aeyn
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 8:54 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: '55 taillights
> 
> I might be off-base by saying this, but have you checked the
> turn
> signal switch.  I know that most newer cars route the brake
> light
> wiring through the turn signal switch and on a cars this
> ventage,
> it would not hurt to make sure that the wiring is ok there
> also.
> 
>  Æyn
> 
> 1975 LeBaron 4DRHT Moondust Metallic / Cream Top
> 
> --- Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > My 55 had no brake lights.
> > I replaced the bulbs to no effect.
> > 
> > I replaced the pressure switch in the MC and stuff
> > worked super right away.
> > 
> > Now one brake light is a goner again, the bulbs are
> > new, and the switch is new.  
> > 
> > -I conclude that it is a problem in the wiring that
> > has yet to reveal itself.  Likey a short someplace
> > where the cloth-insulation has cracked or worn off?
> > 
> > Since the turn-signal still works, I presume that it
> > has to do with the brake-circuit only.
> > 
> > 
> >  -Kenoyn
> > 
> > --- Christopher H <imperial67@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > 
> > > Jim,
> > > 
> > > How do you know the bulbs are fine? Remember, they
> > > are dual-filament bulbs,
> > > like two bulbs living in the same glass house. One
> > > filament (the taller,
> > > thinner one) is the dim taillamp, and the other
> > > (short, thicker one) is the
> > > brighter brake/turn lamp.
> > > 
> > > Often if one fails, the common ground will employ
> > > the other one when both
> > > are in use. Depends on how the car is wired.
> > > 
> > > Check these things:
> > > 
> > > Turn on the parking lights only. Do the taillamps
> > > turn on? Bright or dim?
> > > Just for fun, check out the front parking lights
> > > too.
> > > 
> > > If the taillamps are on but too bright, turn the
> > > parking lights off, turn
> > > the key to the last position before "start" (the
> > > normal running position)
> > > and switch on one turn signal. Does it operate
> > > normally? How about in front?
> > > 
> > > Now, without turning anything off, turn the parking
> > > lights back on. Now what
> > > happens, front and rear.
> > > 
> > > Now try the other turn signal, same routine. And
> > > then the brake lamps. And
> > > while you're at it, with all lights off, have
> > > someone watch the front of the
> > > car while you step on the brakes. Do the front turn
> > > signals erroneously
> > > illuminate with the brakes? (This could indicate
> > > short or burned-out
> > > condition in one rear bulb.)
> > > 
> > > Do you have spare bulbs on hand? (Is this a 6-volt
> > > or 12-volt car?) If so,
> > > try replacing bulbs, even if they seem to be OK.
> > > Make sure they installed
> > > correctly, not 180 degrees off (note the distance
> > > from the side posts to the
> > > base of the bulb, and match it to the slots in the
> > > socket walls.)
> > > 
> > > If all else fails, post the answers to the above and
> > > we'll go from there.
> > > (Dick B is at the So Cal Imperial picnic today, so
> > > the most brilliant
> > > answers won't come until later!)
> > > 
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > Chris in LA
> > > 67 Crown
> > > 78 NYB Salon 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On 10/1/06 11:26 AM, jtpoltrock@xxxxxxx at
> > > jtpoltrock@xxxxxxx wrote:
> > > 
> > > > Hello fellow Imperialist!
> > > > I need some help figuring out a problem that just
> > > began with my '55 sedan.  I
> > > > got up this morning and the weather looked great,
> > > so I decided to take the
> > > > Imperial for a Sunday cruise.  It was a little
> > > foggy out yet so I turned on my
> > > > headlights.  I noticed right away that the
> > > taillights were burning
> > > > brilliantly, like they would when the brake pedal
> > > was pressed with the
> > > > headlights on.  There was no change when I pressed
> > > the brakes.  When I turned
> > > > the headlights off the rear taillights went off
> > > and I had no brake lights.  In
> > > > the interest of safety I ended up leaving the
> > > Imperial at home- which is too
> > > > bad because there are not many beautiful fall days
> > > like today left.
> > > >      I am trying to figure out what the problem
> > > is.  The wiring looks fine and
> > > > the hydraulic brake switch was replaced about two
> > > months ago when I had the
> > > > master cylinder rebuilt.  The bulbs are fine, and
> > > I have never had a lighting
> > > > problem before.  The FSM is not helping me figure
> > > out the problem (unless i am
> > > > missing something).
> > > >      Any leads or advice?  All help would be
> > > appreciated!
> > > > 
> > > > Jim Poltrock
> > > > Salem, WI.
> > > > '55 sedan, 42k
> > > > Wisteria blue over
> > > > Rhapsody blue
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
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> > 
> > 
> > Kenyon Wills
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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> 
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