RE: IML: Charging system
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: IML: Charging system



I'm not sure if I'm shedding any more light on this matter, but here it goes. Grounding is one culprit for the condition mentioned, so is the voltage output at the regulator. An alternator produces sufficient output at 800 rpm's (alternator RPM's not crankcase) and above. This is called "cut-in". If you have a leaking diode, or a bad diode trio, then the output will be affected and the alternator will have to reach higher RPM's in order to "cut-in".
Transpo / WAI makes a replacement solid state voltage regulator. (www.transpo-usa.com) If I remember, it was a part number similar to C1712 which replaces MOPAR CH-531 or 2444980. You can browse their catalog online. The case is very similar to the OE, but if your car is in concours shape, don't count on it being a 100% reproduction.



Chris Middlebrook
1962 Custom Southampton

--- On Fri 10/06, Ken Lang < ken@xxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:

From: Ken Lang [mailto: ken@xxxxxxxxxxx]
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 06:37:22 -0700
Subject: RE: IML: Charging system

Dave,

A solid state replacement for the oldvoltage regulator? I?m interested. I was considering building one andputting inside the old regulator housing to maintain the original look underthe hood. But if someone has already done this, there is no need for me tore-invent the wheel. If you have a part number and supplier/manufacturer, I?dlike to get that info.

Ken

67 Crown 4 Dr Ht



From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] OnBehalf Of sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, October 06, 20066:08 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Charging system


Just to add another point, proper battery charging, requires13.5-14.5volts.to De-sulfate battery plates, and to provide max. batteryservice life. Check battery voltage, at the battery terminals during differentload, and RPM's. The voltage should not drop below 13. volts. FYI: there is asolid-state replacement v-regulator, that looks, mounts, and has connectionslike the old point type. I'll check pn., cost if anyone is interested.One otherpoint: you can show charging current, with your ammeter,but have low voltage atthe battery, but if voltage is correct at battery,charging is sure to beright.Thats why the change to volt meters in newer cars. Hope this helps, Ya'llhave a nice day, Dave.



-------------- Original message --------------
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx

The issue with your turn signals at slow idle leads me to thinkyou may still have a charging issue. Again, I think it is related to a poorground someplace, or other type of bad connection. The alternator shouldput out enough power for the turn signal to operate at a constant rate even atlow rpm.



See if your dash lights come on again the next time you turn on thelights. One of the needles in one of the gauges could be shorting out after atime, shutting down the system. That problem should be pretty easy to isolateand fix.



Paul W.




-----Original Message-----
From: DReese@xxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Charging system

Thanks all forthe input. I'm crossing my fingers that the Imp is finally

driveable - oopsI just jinxed it.

I used theImperial to run some errands and take a little drive around town just

to see howeverything was working and what problems might show up. It seems to

be charging thebattery, I'm going to run an electrical test on it this weekend.

I had theheadlights on all the while, everything seems fine. I mentioned the

ammeter neverticking over to the "charge" side....well that changed when I

adjusted thepower seat, it showed a charge then. Man, that seat motor draws

some current!

Unfortunately theelectroluminescents went out sometime while I was letting it

idle last night. Darned car, if it's not one thing it's five others. *sigh*

However, thepower antennae works wonderfully....it's hooked up to a radio that

needs new tubesand both speakers have disintegrated, but the antennae works.

One odd thing,and this was going on before the new wiring harness and

alternator: theturn signal works normally as long as I keep the rpm's up, say

600+. Howeverwhen I'm stopped at an intersection with the brakes applied, the

signal slows alot and frequently just stops blinking. If I use my left foot on

the brake andraise the engine speed a tad, the signal picks up speed. I have a

new"blinker" but haven't installed it. Anyone have an idea what thatcould be

a symptom of?

Applying thebrakes cuts the engine idle some as well. I suspect I'm leaking

vaccuum somewhere- another item to repair.

Thanks all again,

Donn Reese

1960 Custom 4drHDTP

----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------

This message wassent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please

reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxand your response will be

shared witheveryone. Private messages (and attachments) for the

Administratorsshould be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To UN-SUBSCRIBE,go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm




Check out the new AOL.Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access tomillions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.




Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.