Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair, 413 ci
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Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair, 413 ci



OK, heres the scoop on dampers: 361- 440 B-RB engines.  Brand New dampers $69.95 Professional Products Dampers. PN.80013. 7.9" dia. Ya'll have a damperific day. Dave.
 
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dennis" <Barracuda360@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

> The only thing I can think of is go to Moparts.com and put an add there.
> Another thing is to watch ebay. You can run a ongoing search for 413 motor
> parts for 6 months at a time.
>
> Dennis
> 68 Omaha Orange FB 360
> 67 Imperial Titanic 4 door sedan
> 64 Dodge 880 land yacht w 413
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Hermanns"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:43 PM
> Subject: RE: IML: crankshaft pulley repair, 413 ci
>
>
> > http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DD
> > &Product_Code=CHR4131&Category_Code=CHR
> >
> > ; Just was curious before I closed the window and whatdayaknow -- they have
> > one for your engine. Kind of steep at over $200. But its out there.
> >
> > Also -- his new website is much better than the one 3 years ago. He seems
> > to also have cracked the problem with TDC.
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of David Hermanns
> > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 9:26 PM
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: IML: crankshaft pulley repair
> >
> > Try www.damperdoctor.com
> >
> > I know, the name sounds pretty cheesy. But I had a telephone conversation
> > with the fellow and I subsequently had my damper rebuilt by him for my
> > truck
> > engine. It was very n ice in terms of appearance and has done well for 3
> > years and counting...
> >
> > You WILL have to find TDC on your own after a rebuild in all likelihood,
> > but
> > I am sure that someone can give advice on that as well....
> >
> > Later....
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rob van der Es
> > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 10:03 AM
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair
> >
> > Hi Dave,
> >
> > Ofcourse I prefer a new damper but I haven't found one yet that is
> > available for my engine..
> > It is an 413 RB of 1960, any ideas?
> > Most suppliers go back to 1966 and then they said that it won't work for
> > older engines...
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Robert
> >
> >
> > Op Ma, 16 oktober, 2006 2:59 pm, schreef sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx:
> >> That would work, but the fact that the bond between the inner and outer
> >> rig is broken, means every time you set timing, you would have to find
> >> TDC again, to make SURE, it didn't move again.Seems like more work, than
> >> buying a new damper.Just a thought. Thanks, Dave.
> >>
> >> -------------- Original message --------------
> >> From: "Rob van der Es"
> >>
> >>
> >>> Why is it such a problem then if the outter ring has slipped?
> >>> I mean, you only have to find TDC of the #1 cyl and make a new mark on
> >>> the ring???
> >>>
> >>> Or do I miss something here?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Robert
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Op Vr, 13 oktober, 2006 7:52 pm, schreef DR CHALLENGER:
> >>>
> >>>> if thats true the damper is junk, needs to rebuilt or replaced.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> From: "Dave"
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> It can if the outter ring has slipped on the inner ring.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> > --- My memory's not as sharp as it used to be.
> >>>>> Also, my memory's not as sharp as it used to be.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "DR CHALLENGER"
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> To:
> >>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 2:17 PM
> >>>>> Subject: Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The damper only goes on 1 way, it cant be 180 degrees off.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> From: David Whitney
> >>>>>>> )
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> When you change the balancer, you MUST be certain that the TDC
> >>>>>>> mark (the one you use to set timing) is actually pointing to 0
> >>>>>>> on the plate affixed to the timing chain cover when cylinder 1
> >>>>>>> is at EXACT top dead center on the COMPRESSION cycle. The most
> >>>>>>> common mistake is getting it 180 degrees out. Having it off by a
> >>>>>>> few degrees will merely make it difficult to set the timing
> >>>>>>> because you won't want to believe your eyes when you see how
> >>>>>>&g t; many degrees initial advance you have.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Some of what I have written is merely interesting. The
> >>>>>>> important sentences have words in CAPS. Not abbreviations...
> >>>>>>> words.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
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> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
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