Re: IML: Dome Light On Half Power W/O Switches Closed

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for your suggestion John,

I have that already on my to do list for this weekend :)
I will clean all the contacts in the fusebox until they are as new, and
see what happens then.

Robert



Op Do, 19 oktober, 2006 7:34 am, schreef john sadowski:
> If it were me, I'd replace or at least remove all of the fuses & clean
> the contacts. This is a heck of a lot easier then taking things apart
> looking for other problems. Many times, the worst is feared when it turns
> out to be some little thing causing a problem. John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 4:37 AM
> Subject: IML: Dome Light On Half Power W/O Switches Closed
>
>
>
> I really think that this dome light issue is related to some kind of an
> electrical short circuit. It has been explained that this light comes on
> even if the doors and light switch are not activated. That means that the
> circuit is being completed someplace else. It has to be, or the light
> can't work. I know it sounds wierd, but this short might not be in the
> wiring to the light itself.
>
> A simliar situation in my '48 Lincoln Continental resulted from a
> grounded wire under the dash. In this case, the dome light became
> brighter as I increased the engine RPMs. At one point, it would go out
> until the RPMs fell back down to that level. I haven't mentioned this
> previously because the car is six volt positive ground. Nonetheless, it
> takes a completed circuit to make the light come on. Once I found the
> short, the light functioned normally, and so did the rest of the car.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 1:30 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown
>
>
>
> Hi John,
>
>
> Thanks a lot for your kind suggestion!
> I will check the fusebox then to see if something is wrong there.
> Might well be the case, cause about the same time my dome light stays on
> at half power my wiper motor stopped working... Might be an coincidence,
> but who knows?
>
> I will check out the fusebox this weekend!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Robert
>
>
>
> Op Wo, 18 oktober, 2006 4:09 am, schreef john sadowski:
>
>> The dome light at half power sounds like a fuse is bad. On my first 63,
>> I
>> had an 8 track player mounted directly below the fuses. Well , one day
>> the dome light wouldn't go out & it was shining less then full power.
>> Opening the doors caused the problem to move to the map light. After
>> nearly pulling my hair out, I discovered the bad fuse. I put the 8 track
>>  back in the same place & it happened again. After the 2nd time, I
>> relocated the 8 track & no further problem. John ----- Original Message
>> -----
>> From: richard burgess
>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:24 AM
>> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> Since we're all chiming in on our '60s I thought I would throw in
>> another update.
>>
>> If you have paid attention to the saga, a big milestone has been made.
>> I
>> have a brand new correct windshield installed, finally!  It's so
>> beauutiful.  I have most of the stainless back on but of course had one
>>  of the header clips break.  Fortunately I have had parts cars.  The
>> trim slid around a bit so it took a couple tries to get everything
>> rights.  I am ready to install the dynamat insulation on the roof and
>> begin windlacing installation.  I have started installing
>> weatherstripping on the doors.  I seriously wonder how well these cars
>> were sealed in the first place.  The original weatherstripping was
>> crushed in many places leading me to believe it never quite went the
>> direction it was intended even when new.  As soon as the headliner goes
>> in I can start on the carpet and installing the interior which is
>> already finished.
>>
>> The engine and transmission have now both been overhauled a second time
>>  due to botched work the first time.  My Dad is coming down next week
>> and we are going to get the drivetrain installed.  This should all go
>> very qwickly as we have now done it once before!  I really plan on
>> finishing the car sometime next Spring.  this is my fourth year in this
>> frame up restoration.  We are then going to get the front sheetmetal on.
>>
>>
>> Then the real troubleshootinng can begin.  Once everything is hooked up
>> I
>> can see what does and does not work.  I have laboriously added a factory
>>  original power lock system from a parts car using the original wiring
>> harness and nos transformers.  I still need one actuator for the
>> driver's door.   It will be things like this that I am dying to know if
>> they actually work.
>>
>> It's going to be looking like a car again soon!
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard Burgess
>> '60 Crown
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> Hi Donn,
>>
>>
>>
>> Ahhh, the joys of owning and maintaining a 1960 Imperial...
>> Been there, done that and as a matter of fact.. Still do!!
>>
>>
>>
>> Isn't it great fun to find yourself under the dash upside down (not too
>>  easy when you are size XXL :) trying to repair something that is
>> hidden there?
>>
>> Right now I am trying to fix the wiper motor, it suddenly stopped
>> working and haven't found out yet what is wrong. Since both the switch
>> and the wiper motor are really hard to accesss this aint a job for the
>> faint hearted!
>>
>> Another problem is that the EL dash lighting system from time to time
>> fails to work, I have already thrown in a new (=rebuild) power pack but
>> the dash still gets dark every now and then (after a few days everything
>> is working again for an hour or so..) Must be one of the gauges that is
>> shorting out I guess, so in a short time I will finding myself again
>> under the dash pulling white leads from the gauges to find out which
>> one is guilty.
>>
>> Then we have the strange problem with the dome-light, it stays on when
>> the doors are closed.. And even stranger it shines it's light at half
>> power or so. There must be a shortcircuit to ground (and no, the
>> doorswitches are ok and so is the manual switch: with all those
>> switches disconnected the dome light is still working at half power..)
>> but I haven't found out yet where.
>>
>> I learned from Richard Burgess that there is a connectionpoint under
>> the headliner, running from the manual switch to the domelight and then
>> to left rear wheel well where it connected to the doorswitches, so
>> problably the shortcircuit is in this area...
>>
>> Apart from all these electrical problems (the electrical system of the
>> 60
>> model year isn't of the same quality as the rest of the car if you ask
>> me) the car drives beautifully. Running strong and is shifting gears
>> perfectly, all I have to do in this aspect is to sort out a rough idle.
>> I
>> might be in for a new harmonic damper since the timing mark seems to
>> have slipped..
>>
>> So enough work to do, but it is worth every minute of time that I have
>> spend so far to make the car better then it was before I bought it:) It
>> is fun, and to see all those faces of people looking at a car that they
>> have never seen before...Well, it makes it all worth I guess!
>>
>> So Donn, keep up the good work and keep it runnin'
>>
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Robert
>> 1960 Crown 4 door Hardtop
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Op Di, 17 oktober, 2006 5:16 am, schreef Donn Reese:
>>
>>
>>> In fits and starts the Imperial is getting more roadworthy, but good
>>> grief is it putting up a fight! Maybe it's just tired and WANTS to go
>>> sit in a pasture forever. I've certainly been ready to oblige a couple
>>> times recently.
>>>
>>> The heater fan was making a loud scraping noise and the heater
>>> control valve had been bypassed so I decided to pull the heater and at
>>> least fix the fan. I was surprised how easy the heater unit was to
>>> remove, just three screws. Turns out the plastic housing on the
>>> outside face of the squirrel cage had deformed inwards pressing
>>> against the squirrel cage itself. I used my heat gun to heat up the
>>> plastic then pushed the face out, reforming from a concave to a convex
>>> (btw, it's pretty crappy
>>> plastic). But it's much quieter now and I didn't have to cut a hole in
>>>  the housing.
>>>
>>> With that fixed I removed the heater control valve and (assuming it
>>> was just froze up with corrosion) proceeded to lubricate it and get
>>> the valve working again. I reinstalled it and hooked up the heater
>>> hoses and fired up the car. That's when I found out why it had been
>>> bypassed, it leaks. Soooo, I bypassed it again and will have to scout
>>> around for a new one.
>>>
>>>
>>> I discovered the cause of the slow turn signals at idle that I
>>> reported here recently.....bad flasher. I put a new one in and now it
>>> works regardless of idle. Seems strange to me though.
>>>
>>> Amongst all of this, last week the speedometer started making a
>>> horrendous noise and the needle would jump around. The OIC archive
>>> came in handy, found the same symptoms there....who would have guessed
>>> you have to lubricate the speedo head periodically. Definitely a new
>>> one on me. Especially surprising considering they don't make it easy
>>> to get any of the instruments out to do any kind of maintenance.
>>>
>>> I made another little test run down the highway and back and
>>> everything seems to be fine for now. Let's hope it stays that way as
>>> we're now getting frost at night and working outside is getting
>>> chilly.
>>>
>>> Donn Reese
>>> 1960 Custom 4dr hdtp
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
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