--- Begin Message ---
- From: Luis C <luis1024@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 05:56:56 -0800 (PST)
Hi John,
Where are you getting your new winshield from? Whats
the cost with shipping.
Thanks Luis 68 convertable.
--- john sadowski <jsadowski@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> The adventure continues. I first got a windshield
> for a 66. The correct one arrived this week.
> Unfortunately it broke in transit. Another one is on
> the way.
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frederick Joslin
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:57 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: 69 Windshield Replacement
>
>
> Hi John:
>
> I am in the long process of replacing the vinyl
> roof on my 69 LeBaron 2 door. I was aware of some
> rust at the front of the roof, but did not think
> that there was any around the window frame or
> anywhere else.
>
> It turns out that there was quite a bit of rust
> around the front window frame, especially at the
> trim clip screws and both A pillars were rusted out
> near the top under the seam in the vinyl roof. Also,
> the factory body filler at both seams at the top of
> the C pillars was somewhat flaky and too easy to
> remove with some rust undernearth. I also had rust
> under the rear window insert all the way across the
> back with several parts rusted through.
>
> The trim clips screw into the window frame. You
> cannot get behind for bolts. Just about every one of
> my clips was rusted beyond reuse with a variable
> size rust hole asociated with each. I am surprised
> that the trim did not come out by itself. Probably
> held on by rust
>
> I would suggest doing what I did which is remove
> the roof and front and rear windows and get out the
> grinder and remove all rust you can find. It is not
> especially hard or time consuming since you are
> working with a relatively small area. Get the right
> tools.
>
> I used the epoxy type body fillers to fill
> everything around the front window frame after a
> good metal prep. I think that these are easier to
> use in this type of small area irregular application
> and better than "Bondo". I know that steel is best
> followed by lead, but I think that this will work. I
> re-bondoed the seams at the top of the C pillars and
> steel panelled and bondoed the area under the rear
> insert.
>
> Note that if you replace the vinyl roof you should
> remove the glass window from the rear fiberglass
> insert. The vinyl roof goes on before the windows
> are installed. This is probably a good idea anyway
> since it appears that a leak at a bad seal in my
> back window led to the rust under the insert. There
> was some headliner material caught in the rubber
> sealing of the back window at a bottom corner, I am
> guessing from the factory.
>
> If you do not want to do the repairs yourself, you
> could at least do the rust removal. This would take
> care of much of the work and remove ambiguity about
> how much actually needed to be repaired when you
> take it to the repair shop.
>
> BTW: I have found some trim clips at the local
> General Store which I think will work. I do not have
> any originals to compare them to! They are in a
> "WeePack" and something like 6 or 8 for $2. It seems
> expensive for what they are, but for these cars is
> actually incredible cheap.
>
> Game 3 of the World series is on right now. I am
> rooting for St. Louis
>
> These cars throw more curve balls than a World
> Series starter
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john sadowski"
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: IML: 69 Windshield Replacement
> Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:13:46 -0700
>
>
> Well, I thought I was going to get the
> windshield replaced in my 69 today. Turns out, the
> glass shop ordered one for a 66 instead. They
> located a correct one in California & will have it
> here in about a week.
> The shop manager was a little negative
> about replacing it due to the rust in the header. He
> says it will leak & could fly out in an accident. He
> also said he would have to glue the trim back on
> because of the rust. if I'm not mistaken, the clips
> bolt through to the inside of the car & not slid
> into the metal lip & the moldings press onto them?
> He is asking me to sign a waiver in case anything
> like that happens. I would get the roof fixed if I
> knew of a reliable shop here in the Phoenix area. I
> don't want to spend a fortune & have it turn out
> poor.
> John
>
>
>
> Fred Joslin
>
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