Mark, if the drum can be considered,EXPENDABLE, then use a small air tool
with a3-4" cut-off wheel. Cut the hub in-line with-the key, this way you can
cut the hub, and the cutter hits the key, not the axle.Once its cut, drive a
tapered chisel into the split (length- wise). Remove drum, then take out your
frustrations on it, not the car. YA'll have a nice day,
Dave &
nbsp;
----------- Original message --------------
From: Kenyon Wills
<imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
> Hey Mark, that was a heck of a
rant! It sounds like
> you were incredibly, intensely frustrated when
you
> wrote that.
>
> Having had my butt kicked by more
than one stubborn
> car part in my life, I can understand completely
how
> bad that feels. This is now a matter of patience and
>
persistence if you can get around how frustrated it's
> made you so
far.
>
> If your car is out the door and over a cliff already,
> so be it (sorry to hear that this wil l be the cause of
> the
divorce), but if the car still has a chance with
> you, perhaps there's
still hope that we can help you
> work this out to completion? That's
what we're all
> here for as far as I know.
>
>
>
Question:
>
> Where do you live?
>
> Perhaps
there's someone nearby that can spare some
> time to come over and
scratch their head and put some
> eyes on it? I am never surprised when
someone else
> looks at it a little differently than I do. We have
> the IMPERIAL HIGHWAY (located on the club website
> under
MAILING LIST) that shows people by geographic
> region that have
explicitly offered to help, although
> not all are neccessarily
qualified on really tough
> rear axle/drum problems. Perhaps there is a
local
> human resource that's been overlooked?
>
>
Sometimes it just takes an alternate approach?
>
> ; One option
that I discounted because my method always
> worked but would try if I
got mad at the drum would be
> to re-assemble, cinch the locknut down
in a way that
> it was threaded onto the axle and fixed in place, but
> not tight. Drive the car around at low speeds
> (careful!),
and see if the weight of the car,
> vibration, and so forth will work
on it. Perhaps some
> penetrating oil too?
>
>
>
Another way to go would be to look into local truck
> service places.
Older trucks (I think) may have used
> such drums, and you may find
someone at one of those
> places that has some experience or different
> tools/techniques? I encourage you to do some poking
> around
on this and not let this seized part get your
> goat.
>
>
The thing is just stuck. OK. Probably been on there
> since the day it
was assembled or some such, and who
> knows? Perha ps water or
something "wrong" got in
> there, compounding your problems. I again
submit that
> you are now down to a battle of the part vs. your
> patience.
>
> This IS solvable. There are plenty of
rear-ends
> around for most of our cars that you can swap out if
> it's just not going to work. The challenges that
> you're
facing are exactly the things that all of the
> gomers that don't work
on cars fail to realize when
> they admire a car like yours and think
that an old car
> is just like a new one.
>
> If it was
easy, everyone would have an old car.
>
> Look out the window.
Not so many chrome bumpers these
> days.... You are winning your
stripes this week.
> Keep going!!!!
>
>
> -K
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
Mark Battesby
wrote:
>
> > well I took
all of yo ur advise guys. I went out and
> > got the right puller .
I have a very powerful
> > compressor em-glow . Put on the impact
tool . I
> > heated of the area that I was told to with
>
> torch, and worked on the hub all fricken day .
> > Didn't move
one bit !!. I am convinced it isn't ever
> > coming off . So I will
put the wheel back on and
> > even though its a great looking car
all original 47
> > , I will drive it to the coast and right off
cliff
> > where it belongs. This car has been kicking my ass
> > for two months now and now hate it . I cant imagine
>
> what is keeping this hub on but I have tried
> > everything.I
even tried a 10 ' long scaffolding bar
> > with all my weight it
lifted the car in the air
> > and still no movement. I'm done . I am
so sick of
> > people saying to me wow I have never seen that
> > happen before. well I have more times then I can
> >
count. who am I I am the guy that can fix everybody
> > else stuff,
but can never fix my own.Evey time I
> > work on this car it gets
worse and worse you
> > wouldn't believe it and less you saw the
list
> > Its not the car its me the only thing that hasn't
>
> happened is the car falling off the jack stands and
> >
crushing me below it . well I still have to put the
> > wheels back
on so i guess it could happen
> > Dick Benjamin
wrote:
> > Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle
design
> > depends on the friction between
> > the tapered
axle end and the cone shaped inner
> > surface of the hub to prevent
> > the hub from moving on the axle end under the
> >
terrific torque of the engine
> > - if you lubricate these surfaces,
you will sooner
> > or later b reak the tip
> > off the
axle, in addition to causing noise every
> > time you reverse the
> > polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels.
> >
This will also wear out
> > the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the
inner mating
> > groove in the hub.
> >
> > The
shop manual on most cars with this design makes
> > this point very
strongly
> > - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the
> > parts dry and clean.
> >
> > Difficulty in
getting the hub off is usually caused
> > by an inadequate tool,
> > or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller
>
> center hex is the wrong
> > way to go - the proper way is to
apply impact force
> > to the "dogbone" shaped
> > knocker
handle that comes with the tool, using a 3
> > pound hammer and
strong
> > blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help,
> > but usually isn't
> > required. If the tool isn't up
to the job, see if
> > you can find a Snap-On
> > brand
puller at your local tool rental yard, - and
> > allow the car to
sit with
> > the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often
> > the temperature cycle
> > will cause the hub to pop
loose in the middle of the
> > night!
> >
> >
Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then,
> > taking
advantage of the
> > play in the parts, pulling out on the opposite
wheel
> > and then slamming it
> > back into the car will
transmit enough shock through
> > the axle to cause the
>
> subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on
> > it.
> >
> > Dick Benjamin
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: mailing-list-own
er@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On
> > Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> > Sent: Friday, December
08, 2006 5:57 PM
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy
> >
> > I am
traveling and can't research as I should.
> >
> > Read
reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and
> > COMPLETELY
> >
before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle
> > where the
drum goes on. I think that there is a
> > strong warning against
doing this. Further details
> > are yours to research.
> >
> >
> > -Kenyon
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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