Re: IML: power steering leak and brake failure. help please 1970

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- TRACY <imperial@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi Tracy.

Here is what I read:

1.  Your power steering failed - the fluid leaked out

2.  Brakes are funky and stiff

3.  Car has 18,000 Miles on it.

4.  Your mechanic gave you incomplete or bad advice.



Here is what I think:

1.  The power steering system does not directly affect
other ones, so the brake problem is likely
coincidental.  

There are several parts:  

A. The pump, a cylindrical part that has a wheel in
front driven by a belt.  It is hung on the driver's
side of the front of the engine at about 9 o'clock as
you look at the car from the front.  There is a cap
that you can unscrew off to check the fluid level.  
B.  There are two hoses that are called "pressure" and
"return".  The pressure one has metal tubing for part
of the way and comes off with a wrench on each end.  
C. Then there is the steering box, which both hoses
feed from the pump.  It is low and under the engine on
the DS.  Steering boxes rarely fail and this is
unlikely to be a source of the problem.

When the car is cold, feel the hoses and inspect them
for tears or breaks.  This is the most likely problem,
and you should replace these regardless unless they
have been done in the last 10 years that you know of.

If replacing these doesn't solve the problem, the
problem is likely in the pump.  Pumps are usually
under $100 and not all that hard to put in, so should
not take a qualified shop more than 2 hours to do. 
Probably less.  

Do both hoses first and refill with Power Steering
Fluid.  That'll likely fix your problem.

2.  Your brakes don't have anything to do with your
power steering, unless the fluid somehow mysteriously
soaked into the brake on the DS of the car, which is
unlikely.

If they are stiff, it is likely that your brake
booster isn't working.  This could be due to a failed
hose connecting the booster to the engine.  The
suction (vacuum) of the engine is used to operate the
booster, and to give your brakes the feel that they
used to have.  If the hose or seals in the booster
break, the booster stops working.

On the Drivers-side of the engine, against the back
wall of the engine compartment, you'll see a large
cylinder mounted up high that is roughly in line with
the steering wheel. There is a black hose that goes
from this to the engine.  If it were broken, that
would account for your stiff brakes.  If not, the
cylinder, called the brake booster, is likely bad and
needs replacement/rebuilding.  Since the engine sucks
when running, any tear or break in the system will
generate a hiss where it is drawing in air.  Find the
leak and you know what to fix on that.

3. If your car has 18,000 miles or 180,000 miles, and
the soft parts are all original, the rubber is likely
rotten and in dire need of replacement to make the car
safe and dependable.  Going forward, if you know that
there's a problem, you should certainly fix it BEFORE
you go driving it!  That PS fluid could have been a
source of fire (happened to me) and the brakes should
not be driven on if compromised.  PLEASE STOP and get
attention to the car before driving it should problems
come up in the future - your safety is counting on it.



Every old car that I get gets the following to avoid
having a problem when I'm driving it around:

Upper & lower radiator hoses/fluid
Power steering hoses/fluid
Fan Belts
Thermostat
air filter
Oil filter/oil
rear-end oil
transmission fluid/filter
transmission output shaft seal (for 1959-75 Imperials)
Radiator cap
Heater hoses
Fuel line (all from frame)/fuel filter.

Thorough brake check - replace 3 soft flex lines (2
Front, 1 Rear) as soon as any work is needed.

Check tightness of steering box - tighten as needed. 
See archives for this.




Why these?  They do not age well.  Especially if left
unused for long periods of time.  These are the things
that will likely fail, they're comparatively cheap to
redo, and will all stand to take out much more
expensive components if they do fail.  I encourage you
to take this list and have them done if you plan to
drive the car.  The brake booster vacuum advance hose
may also be bad, but isn't such a usual part that is
needed.


4.  "Bad o-rings"?  Anyone else that works on cars
where you live?  That sounds like bad advice to me,
but it may be out of context and part of other info
that he gave?  


If you look at the club website and see the MAILING
LIST area, there is the IMPERIAL HIGHWAY.  There
you'll find others that have offered to meet you, and
you can find someone local to you.  You may do well to
get a hand from someone in person who can take a look
at what's going on.  If you're just starting to learn
about your car, the in-person advice that you'd get
from a fellow owner that has some experience may go
far for you.



Good luck.  I think that you'll do best to find
someone that isn't charging by the hour to give you
advice about what's going on, and possibly who you can
trust to perform work on your car.




Kenyon Wills
 
 






















 
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